Climbs

Originally climbed using yo-yo tactics it was later redpointed by Jean-Pierre Bouvier who renamed it Gandalf le Magicien claiming he had made the first real ascent, which did not sit very well with the local climbers of the time who viewed the frenchman's redpoint tactics as poor style. The new name and claim didn't stick.

Initially climbed with 2 bolts it has variously gained and lost bolts over the years, but now seems to have settled at 4.

References

[1] Peak Limestone North history supplement, page 49 https://www.thebmc.co.uk/Handlers/DownloadHandler.ashx?id=1291

Originally climbed without pads at E8. As with other lines on this bloc it utilises a large chipped runnel to get established on the base of the slab.

Originally the line climbed slightly left of where it currently does, utilising a tiny pebble. Tom de Gay:

I believe JD went further left, but there used to be a handy micro-pebble which I unfortunately removed whilst soloing it, with my right hand on the slopey top, to the left of the seam. c.1998 [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C53smFWt6jZ/?img_index=1

Originally given 8c but upgraded to 8c+. Approximately font 8A+/B in to font 7C.

The line was originally aid climbed by Chris Craggs and Colin Binks and called Free that you Bastards. Ben Moon was working the line but came back to find holds had been chipped off. John Welford then took on the challenge and sealed the deal after a protracted siege.

Named after the sci-fi novel of the same name by Roger Zelazny.

Start down to left

References

[1] https://27crags.com/crags/buttermilks/routes/buttermilker-sds

Probably the hardest big wall in the world.

References

[1] https://www.dawnwall-film.com/