Climbers

References

[1] https://www.boardmantasker.com/news/2024/4/17/steve-dean-bt-secretary-remembers-his-friend-roger-hubank

References

[1] Obituary in The Guardian, November 2011 https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2011/nov/15/roger-redfern-obituary

German-born Australian migrant. Inventor and manufacturer of the eponymous RP brazed-wire brass micronut crucial to many hard trad. ascents.

Pete O'Donovan:

...I think RPs were used on virtually all high-end trad routes in the late ’70s to late ’80s.

References

[1] https://alpinist.com/features/roland-pauligk-1938-2017-the-man-who-changed-climbing-with-his-brass-micronuts/

Alpinist and Bleausard. At times controversial and somewhat mysterious, in 1965 Trivellini created the bold Black Circuit (ED-) at Bas Cuvier [1]. He disappeared in March 1967 during an attempt at a direct winter solo on the Eiger North Face.

Gilles Modica:

His body was never found. Two years earlier, solo, he is said to have completed the first ascent of the Linceul [The Shroud] with a direct finish to the summit of the Grandes Jorasses via the left side of the Walker Spur (3–4–5–6 July 1965). This extraordinary feat was questioned and never officially recognised. Francis Bocianowski, of the R.S.C.M. (Red Star Club Montreuillois), a friend of Trivellini, saw no reason to doubt it and compiled a dossier on the matter. A journalist of Polish origin, Piotr Packowski, has more recently argued Trivellini’s case with the support of Claude Deck, former president of the G.H.M., in the journal of the F.F.C.A.M. (formerly the Club Alpin Français). Two false rumours long circulated about Trivellini: that he was deeply in debt, and that he had fled to Argentina for that reason. The mystery remains, with his body never recovered despite searches. [2]

References

[1] https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0

[2] Fontainebleau: 100 ans d'escalade, Gilles Modica, Jacky Godoffe, Editions Mont Blanc, 2017, p.227. Translation by Chat GPT.

References

[1] https://substack.com/@newredronald

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/community/ron-olevsky/