Didier Berthod

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References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/greenspit-valle-dellorco-for-didier-berthod.html

[2] https://vimeo.com/233966641

Placing the gear on lead.

It was love at first sight. So there it was, this perfect splitter crack that had haunted my dreams for so long. And in a perfect setting, with a perfect view, and a perfect ledge. And even the hour-long walk is also kinda perfect as it gives you a break from the crowds…

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CtHtFK2S9nY/=

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/didier-berthod-first-ascent-the-crack-of-destiny-squamish-canada.html

[3] https://www.instagram.com/reel/C4ipfhgLSVP/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CvpwF1dtYKU

19 years after he previously stopped trying it.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C6_lDtwrR5i/

[2] https://www.climbing.com/news/didier-berthod-climbs-cobra-crack-5-14-squamish/

[3] https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/stories/didier-berthod-committed/

When I showed my project to Connor Herson, the only condition I asked him was not to flash the route. The humiliation would have been too great, me who had been working on this crack for a good month 😅. He was obedient, but the fact remains that he only took two sessions to send what we then agreed to name “The Shark”.

Many were surprised by my approach of offering a first ascent to another climber, but personally I found it important not to lock myself into attitudes that could turn out to be sterile. Especially since the crack has not been opened by me but by Stu Smith who, himself, attached no importance of being the first to free climb a route. Only friendship and the magical sharing of the passion should really matter.

It was a real pleasure to climb with Connor and to get to know him. His talent is truly extraordinary and there is no doubt he will have a special place in future books dedicated to the history of trad climbing.

But it was also a real pleasure to personally clip the anchor a few weeks later. This route is truly amazing and stand at around the same level of quality and difficulty as Cobra or Destiny, even if its style is very different.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C-rEiigobGC/?img_index=1

[2] https://www.instagram.com/reel/DHrVGmZycPc/

Sometimes in life you get to experience one of these really rare moments when you find yourself in a place and in a time you would never have imagined, doing something you’d have never thought. If someone would have told me I’d spend a summer in Moab trying a futuristic boulder crack problem, I would never have believed him. Yet it has been what I’ve lived. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DOAPpGxEUHe/

[2] https://www.climbing.com/news/didier-berthod-makes-first-ascent-of-the-anomaly-v13/