Didier Berthod

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Quick Info

From: Switzerland 🇨🇭
Hardest Trad (Worked): E10

Didier Berthod is a Swiss climber who is known for his crack climbing. Famously, he came very close to making the first ascent of Cobra Crack in Squamish in 2006 before injury stopped him and Sonnie Trotter made the first ascent..

Around the same time he stopped trying Cobra Crack his partner became pregnant. Didier was unable to to imagine a life as a father and he fell back on his Catholic faith, first becoming a Monk with the Eucharistein Fraternity and later being ordained as a priest.

In 2020 he then left the church to pursue 'a more balanced life', including starting climbing again.

He has since reconciled with his child and her mother (Previously his partner), and has started making hard fist ascents again such as The Crack of Destiny in Squamish and then, in 2024, coming full circle and climbing Cobra Crack in 2024.

References

[1] Interview with Tom Randall https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4aSZ19z41Hg

[2] https://english.elpais.com/sports/2022-11-15/didier-berthod-from-rock-climbing-star-to-monk-and-back-again.html

[3] Interview with Niall Grimes, 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/32F0fKdpvYNkGup6pRtKMk?

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XjXzfkm6mgk

[5] https://www.grimpactu.com/post/de-la-corde-%C3%A0-la-foi-le-retour-victorieux-de-didier-berthod

Contributors
21 contributions since 16th May 2021.

Quick Info

From: Switzerland 🇨🇭
Hardest Trad (Worked): E10

Didier Berthod is a Swiss climber who is known for his crack climbing. Famously, he came very close to making the first ascent of Cobra Crack in Squamish in 2006 before injury stopped him and Sonnie Trotter made the first ascent..

Around the same time he stopped trying Cobra Crack his partner became pregnant. Didier was unable to to imagine a life as a father and he fell back on his Catholic faith, first becoming a Monk with the Eucharistein Fraternity and later being ordained as a priest.

In 2020 he then left the church to pursue 'a more balanced life', including starting climbing again.

He has since reconciled with his child and her mother (Previously his partner), and has started making hard fist ascents again such as The Crack of Destiny in Squamish and then, in 2024, coming full circle and climbing Cobra Crack in 2024.

References

[1] Interview with Tom Randall https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4aSZ19z41Hg

[2] https://english.elpais.com/sports/2022-11-15/didier-berthod-from-rock-climbing-star-to-monk-and-back-again.html

[3] Interview with Niall Grimes, 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/32F0fKdpvYNkGup6pRtKMk?

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XjXzfkm6mgk

[5] https://www.grimpactu.com/post/de-la-corde-%C3%A0-la-foi-le-retour-victorieux-de-didier-berthod

Contributors
21 contributions since 16th May 2021.

Podcasts

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.

Ascents

7 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
The Shark E10 (approx) Lead | worked Aug 2024
Second ascent.

When I showed my project to Connor Herson, the only condition I asked him was not to flash the route. The humiliation would have been too great, me who had been working on this crack for a good month 😅. He was obedient, but the fact remains that he only took two sessions to send what we then agreed to name “The Shark”.

Many were surprised by my approach of offering a first ascent to another climber, but personally I found it important not to lock myself into attitudes that could turn out to be sterile. Especially since the crack has not been opened by me but by Stu Smith who, himself, attached no importance of being the first to free climb a route. Only friendship and the magical sharing of the passion should really matter.

It was a real pleasure to climb with Connor and to get to know him. His talent is truly extraordinary and there is no doubt he will have a special place in future books dedicated to the history of trad climbing.

But it was also a real pleasure to personally clip the anchor a few weeks later. This route is truly amazing and stand at around the same level of quality and difficulty as Cobra or Destiny, even if its style is very different.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C-rEiigobGC/?img_index=1
Greenspit E9 Lead | worked 14th Dec 2003
First ascent. Pre-placed gear.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/greenspit-valle-dellorco-for-didier-berthod.html

[2] https://vimeo.com/233966641
Cobra Crack E9 Lead | did not finish 2005

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JhWvaQpJ7NM

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CuVOBYttLEV/
Greenspit E9 Lead | repeat Oct 2005

Placing the gear on lead.
The Crack of Destiny E9 Lead | worked 23rd Jun 2023
First ascent.

It was love at first sight. So there it was, this perfect splitter crack that had haunted my dreams for so long. And in a perfect setting, with a perfect view, and a perfect ledge. And even the hour-long walk is also kinda perfect as it gives you a break from the crowds…

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CtHtFK2S9nY/=

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/didier-berthod-first-ascent-the-crack-of-destiny-squamish-canada.html

[3] https://www.instagram.com/reel/C4ipfhgLSVP/
Cobra Crack E9 Lead | worked 14th May 2024
Belayed by Amity Warme.

19 years after he previously stopped trying it.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C6_lDtwrR5i/

[2] https://www.climbing.com/news/didier-berthod-climbs-cobra-crack-5-14-squamish/
Learning to Fly E7 Lead | worked
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade