Martin Keller

First re-ascent after holds broke.

Getting up at 5.50 am. Jumping on a train and while on the train doing some client-feedback for my climbing- coaching (answering questions about the weekly training, tactical approaches for trips ). Then teaching 3 lectures (Business and economics) at technical university during the day. Back on a train in the late afternoon and some more client feedback. Arriving home i went for a 45min powernap. Cold shower. Food. Coffee. Left home around 8pm. Arrived at the boulder in Ticino around 11pm. Usual warmup ritual (mindset work included). Snacking (Choco-Croissant). 1am first try - heel slipped in the crux at the end. Long rest. Going for a walk. More snacking (Carrot-cake ;). Finally had the one perfect go with no mistake, still nearly slipped on the mantel - topped it out around 2am (2nd try of the night). No big screaming. Just very [content]. Long rest on top of the boulder. More Snacking. Back home around 7am I guess. Good thing work started at 1pm that day - not at 8am ;) [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cx5v2DzNvWH/

[2] https://www.8a.nu/news/martin-keller-45-does-gateway-8c+-tvay4

[3] Interview with Climber.com, October 2023 https://www.climbing.com/people/martin-keller-interview-2023/

References

[1] https://martinkeller.blogspot.com/2012/04/fa-of-der-mit-dem-fels-tanzt-chironico.html

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/series/der_mit_dem_fels_tanzt/martin_keller_conquers_the_fisch-project-67075

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/BxP3fzODbu2/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FUd8M3Dsdo0

[3] https://martinkeller.blogspot.com/2019/05/first-ascent-ninja-skills-sitdown-start.html

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Ca-BNh7LgzJ/

But after a wild party night (till 3am) I finally got this one try for which I had waited so long. This try on which I got that exact rhythm that made it possible to hit every hold perfect and aloud me to top out the best and hardest boulder I ever did and put up the FA of”Gepresster Hase”, Sustenpass, Swizzy. Couldn’t be happier 😉

References

[1] https://martinkeller.blogspot.com/2014/04/first-ascent-of-gepresster-hase-8c.html

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/04/gepresster_hase_font_8c_first_ascent_by_martin_keller-68888

The end of a 13 year project!

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/06/first_ascent_of_highlander_font_8c_after_13_years_by_martin_keller-70491

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/Ca2XqlEJSTT/