Joe Brown

Also known as: The Master, The Baron and The Human Fly

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Date of birth: 26th September 1930
Age: 89 years old
Date of death: 15th April 2020
Gender: Male
Hardest Trad (Worked): E2
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E5
Notable Partnerships
Don Whillans
Pete Crew
Slim Sorrell
Nat Allen
Claude Davis

Born in 1930, Joe Brown was one of the pivotal figures in post-war climbing in the UK. In the 1950s and 60s, and alongside contemporaries such as Don Whillans, he pushed the standard of rock climbing in the UK to new levels with the first ascents of classic routes such as Cemetry Gates (E1), Great Slab (E3) and Right Eliminate (E3). Joe's routes frequently ventured in to territory that was previously considered off limits, often tackling bold and uncompromising features with minimal protection.

It is sometimes suggested that he was one of the inventors of jamming. Though this seems unlikely, though it is certainly true that he employed the technique to great effect on many of his new routes.

Jim Perrin:

With all the other greats of my time, I could understand how they climbed: fitness, physique, supple gymnasticism or sheer application. With Brown, there was something else at work. He was quite short, not heavily built, his muscles corded rather than developed, his movement smooth and deliberate. When I climbed with him, sometimes I would watch the way he made a move, copy it when I came to that point, and his way, that he had seen instantly, would be the least obvious and most immediately right. He was climbing's supreme craftsman, unerringly aware of the medium. [3]

References

[1] An extended biography written by Ollie Burrows is available here https://www.theclimbersshopjoebrownblog.co.uk/blog/joe-brown-biography including a list of many of Joe's first ascents.

[2] Interview with the BMC

[3] Obituary on UKClimbing written by Jim Perrin.

Contributors
146 contributions since 19th January 2021.
TdG
69 contributions since 2nd September 2025.
67 contributions since 11th July 2025.

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Date of birth: 26th September 1930
Date of death: 15th April 2020
Age: 89 years old
Gender: Male
Hardest Trad (Worked): E2
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E5
Notable Partnerships
Don Whillans
Pete Crew
Slim Sorrell
Nat Allen
Claude Davis

Born in 1930, Joe Brown was one of the pivotal figures in post-war climbing in the UK. In the 1950s and 60s, and alongside contemporaries such as Don Whillans, he pushed the standard of rock climbing in the UK to new levels with the first ascents of classic routes such as Cemetry Gates (E1), Great Slab (E3) and Right Eliminate (E3). Joe's routes frequently ventured in to territory that was previously considered off limits, often tackling bold and uncompromising features with minimal protection.

It is sometimes suggested that he was one of the inventors of jamming. Though this seems unlikely, though it is certainly true that he employed the technique to great effect on many of his new routes.

Jim Perrin:

With all the other greats of my time, I could understand how they climbed: fitness, physique, supple gymnasticism or sheer application. With Brown, there was something else at work. He was quite short, not heavily built, his muscles corded rather than developed, his movement smooth and deliberate. When I climbed with him, sometimes I would watch the way he made a move, copy it when I came to that point, and his way, that he had seen instantly, would be the least obvious and most immediately right. He was climbing's supreme craftsman, unerringly aware of the medium. [3]

References

[1] An extended biography written by Ollie Burrows is available here https://www.theclimbersshopjoebrownblog.co.uk/blog/joe-brown-biography including a list of many of Joe's first ascents.

[2] Interview with the BMC

[3] Obituary on UKClimbing written by Jim Perrin.

Contributors
146 contributions since 19th January 2021.
TdG
69 contributions since 2nd September 2025.
67 contributions since 11th July 2025.

Library


Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.


Ascents

51 recorded ascents.

Sort
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
M35 (A35) E6 Lead | ground up 1958
First ascent. 1 point of aid.

One sling for aid

Trango E5 Lead | onsight 28th Apr 1962
First ascent.
Dinosaur E5 Alternate Leads 19th Jun 1966
First ascent. With Pete Crew. 10 points of aid.
Ramshaw Crack E4 Lead 1964
First ascent. 1 point of aid.

One sling for aid.

Brown managed to manoeuvre a big stone halfway up the crack from above and used this for aid to place a small chockstone higher in the crack as a runner. Above, it became a major test of crack technique with some desperate climbing round the lip of the roof which Brown overcame free. Despite the 'aid', Ramshaw Crack was probably the hardest gritstone crack of the 1960s. [1]

References

[1] 'Peak Rock', Vertebrate Publishing, 2013

Wall of Horrors E3 Boulder | did not finish 1950s

Brown bouldered out the start at around 6b.

References

[1] Yorkshire Gritstone Volume 1, Almscliff to Slipstones 2012, page 93.

Great Slab E3 Lead | ground up 1951
First ascent.

Nat Allen:

He had a go and got to the very delicate move. He had a really good go; he could have got across to the ledge, but he daren't. Then Wilf [White] had a top rope on it. The next week-end, Joe led it. He went straight for it and did it.

References

[1] Peak Rock, p.83

The Great Crack E3 Lead | onsight 1951
First ascent.
Emerald Crack E3 Lead | onsight 1957
First ascent. 1 point of aid.

Brown stood in a sling beneath the overhang whilst the crack above was cleaned.

November E3 Lead | onsight 3rd May 1957
First ascent. With Morty Smith. 8 points of aid.
The Rat Race E3 Alternate Leads 1966
First ascent. With Pete Crew.
Winking Crack E3 Lead | onsight 5th Jun 1966
First ascent.
The Sind E3 Alternate Leads | onsight 28th Oct 1966
First ascent.

Pete Crew recalls

It was one of the few times I had seen the old man in trouble. [1]

References

[1] Gogarth South (2015) by Simon Panton, page 320

Brown's Eliminate E2 Lead | onsight 1948
First ascent.
Elder Crack E2 Lead | onsight 1950 VS
First ascent.
The Black Cleft E2 Alternate Leads | onsight 4th May 1952
First ascent.
Surplomb E2 Alternate Leads | onsight 1st Mar 1953
First ascent. 1 point of aid.
The Dangler E2 Lead | worked 1954
First ascent.
Quietus E2 Lead | worked 1954
First ascent.
Count's Buttress E2 Lead | onsight 1955
First ascent.
Woubits E2 Alternate Leads | onsight 30th Aug 1955
First ascent.
The Thing E2 Lead 11th Feb 1956
First ascent. With Don Whillans.

Felt to be the hardest route in the Llanberis Pass at the time of the first ascent. Graded Exceptionally Severe.

References

[1] https://climbing-history.org/library/7293/llanberis

The Rasp E2 Lead Nov 1956
First ascent. 1 point of aid.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 107, page 44.

The Mostest E2 Lead | onsight 9th Apr 1957
First ascent. 4 points of aid.
Bow Wall E2 Lead Jul 1957
First ascent.

Crux pitch (only?).

Shrike E2 Lead | ground up 25th Oct 1958
First ascent. With Morty Smith. 4 points of aid.
Vector E2 Lead | onsight 26th Mar 1960
First ascent. With Claude Davis. 2 points of aid.
Red Wall E2 Alternate Leads 2nd Sep 1966
First ascent. With Pete Crew.

Doing something like Red Wall you snapped some of the holds off. You could see that they weren't loose, they were just so thin and big that they snapped off like biscuits, and you very quickly got the hang of just smashing them off, so that what was left was thicker and stronger. [1]

References

[1] Gogarth (1990), page 268 /library/7294/gogarth

Mousetrap E2 Alternate Leads | onsight 9th Oct 1966
First ascent. With Pete Crew. 2 points of aid.
The Flytrap E2 Alternate Leads | onsight 16th Apr 1978
First ascent.
The Trident E1 Lead | worked 1948
First ascent.
Left Unconquerable E1 Solo | onsight Apr 1949
First ascent.
Left Eliminate E1 Lead | onsight 1951
First ascent.
Hangover E1 Lead | onsight 18th May 1951
First ascent. With Ray Greenall, Fred Ashton and Slim Sorrell.
Cemetery Gates E1 Alternate Leads | onsight 30th Sep 1951
First ascent. With Don Whillans.

I led the first pitch and took a stance just above the holly tree and hung onto slings attached to poor spikes sticking out of the rock. This was the first stance in slings that we had taken. The position on the face was very sensational and frightening. I brought up Don [Whillans] and he was flabbergasted. "Christ this is a gripping place" he muttered hoarsely. Neither of us seemed able to move. Then it started to rain...All the way up little flakes of rock broke off when we pulled or stood on them. [1]

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 16

Vember E1 Alternate Leads | onsight 13th Oct 1951
First ascent. With Don Whillans.
Cenotaph Corner E1 Lead | ground up 24th Aug 1952
First ascent. 2 points of aid.

Brown's first attempt finished at the niche below the crux where he dropped his peg hammer on his unfortunate belayer. By 1961 it was regarded as a trade route. Climbed free by 1968, FFA by persons unknown. Brown's piton above the niche survived until July 2024.

References

[1] https://climbing-history.org/library/7288/llanberis-pass

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/ron_moseley_and_left_wall-127598

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/dinas_cromlech-4/cenotaph_corner-3195

The Grooves E1 Lead 3rd Sep 1953
First ascent. With Eric Price and Don Cowan . 1 point of aid.
L'Horla E1 Lead 1957
First ascent.

With some tension (hence the name?)

Freddie's Finale HVS Lead | worked 1948
First ascent. With Fred Ashton.
Three Pebble Slab HVS Lead | onsight 1948
First ascent.
The Right Unconquerable HVS Solo | onsight 1949
First ascent.
Valkyrie HVS Lead | onsight 1949
First ascent.
Valkyrie Direct HVS Lead 1951
First ascent. With Don Whillans.
Peapod HVS Lead | onsight 1951
First ascent.
Green Crack HVS Lead 1957
First ascent.

Dave Cook:

The story goes that the 1957 guide­ book credited Brown with the ascent before he had even considered the route. Anxious that the guide should contain no misleading information, he led it to pul the record straight. [1]

References

[1] Mountain 26 (1973), page 30 /library/9630/mountain-26

The Sloth HVS Lead | repeat 1963

Joe repeated the climb for the cameras.

https://bbcrewind.co.uk/asset/600eb7b53a53aa002791fbac

Wen HVS Alternate Leads | onsight 8th May 1966
First ascent.
Angular Crack VS Lead | onsight 1948
First ascent.
Sunset Slab VS Lead | onsight 1948
First ascent.
Chequers Climb VS Lead | onsight 1949
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Southwest Face - Kangchenjunga Mountaineering | expedition Between 18th Apr 1955 and 28th May 1955
First ascent. With George Band. With supplementary oxygen.

Summited on 25th May as part of the 1955 British Kanchenjunga expedition.

References

[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1955_British_Kangchenjunga_expedition