John Allen

Also known as: The Boss

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Date of birth: 16th November 1958
Age: 61 years old
Date of death: 18th May 2020
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7C
Hardest Trad (Worked): E7
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E5

John was a prolific and gifted climber who established a host of hard, classic routes on his local gritstone crags in the peak district.

Lines that had been eyed up by many fell to this prodigious young talent. He climbed Old Friends when he was just 14 and continued adding quality new first ascents from there, such as Hairless Heart, White Wand, Profit of Doom and London Wall which were climbed within a 2 week period at age 16!

While later climbers pushed the numbers up John added a plethora of high quality lines such as West Side Story at Burbage West.

References

[1] Obituary on UKClimbing.com by Graham Hoey, 27th May 2020 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803

Contributors
13 contributions since 22nd December 2020.

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Date of birth: 16th November 1958
Date of death: 18th May 2020
Age: 61 years old
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7C
Hardest Trad (Worked): E7
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E5

John was a prolific and gifted climber who established a host of hard, classic routes on his local gritstone crags in the peak district.

Lines that had been eyed up by many fell to this prodigious young talent. He climbed Old Friends when he was just 14 and continued adding quality new first ascents from there, such as Hairless Heart, White Wand, Profit of Doom and London Wall which were climbed within a 2 week period at age 16!

While later climbers pushed the numbers up John added a plethora of high quality lines such as West Side Story at Burbage West.

References

[1] Obituary on UKClimbing.com by Graham Hoey, 27th May 2020 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803

Contributors
13 contributions since 22nd December 2020.

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Ascents

26 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Shirley's Shining Temple 7C Boulder | worked 1984
First ascent.
West Side Story 7B+ Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Chip Show Brawl 7A+ Boulder | worked 1987
First ascent.
The Sphinx 7A+ Boulder | worked
First ascent.
The Jackalope 7A Boulder | worked 1985
First ascent.
Not to be Taken Away 6C Boulder | worked 1976
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Pacific Ocean Wall Direct E7 Lead | worked 15th Jun 1983
First ascent.

With side runners.

Wall of Sound E6 Lead | worked 1983
First ascent.
Lost World E6 Lead | worked 1985
First ascent.
Indian Summer E6 Lead | worked 1986
First ascent.
Amazing Grace E6 Lead | worked 17th Jun 1986
First ascent.
Hairless Heart E5 Lead | worked 1975
First ascent.
Moon Crack E5 Lead 1975
First ascent.
White Wand E5 Lead | worked 1975
First ascent.
London Wall E5 Lead | worked Jul 1975
First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 107, page 47.

Pebble Mill E5 Lead | worked 1976
First ascent.
Strapadictomy E5 Lead | worked 1976
First ascent.
Edge Lane E5 Lead | onsight
Old Friends E4 Lead | worked 1973
First ascent.
Great Wall E4 Lead | worked 1975
First ascent.
The Knock E4 Solo 1975
First ascent.
Profit of Doom E4 Lead | worked 1975
First ascent.

References

[1] Crags Issue 1, page 2

Moon Walk E4 Lead 1976
First ascent.
The Asp E3 Lead 1975
Second ascent.

References

[1] Crags Issue 1, page 2

Suspense E2 Lead 1975
First ascent.
The Dangler E2 Lead | worked

Age 12!

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade