| From: | United Kingdom 🇬🇧 |
| Date of birth: | 16th November 1958 |
| Age: | 61 years old |
| Date of death: | 18th May 2020 |
| Gender: | Male |
| Hardest Boulder (Worked): | 7C |
| Hardest Sport (Onsight): | 6c+ |
| Hardest Trad (Worked): | E7 |
| Hardest Trad (Onsight): | E5 |
| Notable Partnerships | |
| Steve Bancroft | |
John was a prolific and gifted climber who established a host of hard, classic routes on his local gritstone crags in the peak district.
Lines that had been eyed up by many fell to this prodigious young talent. He climbed Old Friends when he was just 14 and continued adding quality new first ascents from there, such as Hairless Heart, White Wand, Profit of Doom and London Wall which were climbed within a 2 week period at age 16!
While later climbers pushed the numbers up John added a plethora of high quality lines such as West Side Story at Burbage West.
[1] Obituary on UKClimbing.com by Graham Hoey, 27th May 2020 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803
37 recorded ascents.
| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fandango | 6c+ | Solo | onsight | 1975 | |
References[1] Mountain 47 (1975), page 15 /library/11078/mountain-47 |
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| Wailing Wall | 6c | Solo | onsight | 1975 | |
References[1] Mountain 47 (1975), page 15 /library/11078/mountain-47 |
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| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Shirley's Shining Temple | 7C | Boulder | worked | 9th Mar 1984 | E5 |
|
First ascent.
Allen originally started by coming in from the right, returning later to add the 7C direct start. |
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| West Side Story | 7B+ | Boulder | worked | 1985 | |
|
First ascent.
Initially a grade of E3 7a was proposed! [1] References[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 |
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| Chip Shop Brawl | 7A+ | Boulder | worked | 1987 | 7A+ |
|
First ascent.
|
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| The Sphinx | 7A+ | Boulder | worked | ||
|
First ascent.
|
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| The Jackalope | 7A | Boulder | worked | 1985 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| Not to be Taken Away | 6C | Boulder | worked | 1976 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nether Edge | E7 | Lead | worked | 1979 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| Pacific Ocean Wall Direct | E7 | Lead | worked | 15th Jun 1983 | |
|
First ascent.
With side runners. |
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| Fox on a Hot Thin Roof | E6 | Lead | worked | 1979 | |
|
Third ascent.
References[1] Mountain 70 (1979), page 18 |
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| Wall of Sound | E6 | Lead | worked | 1983 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| Lost World | E6 | Lead | worked | 1985 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| Skidoo | E6 | Lead | worked | 1985 | |
|
First ascent.
References[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 |
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| Indian Summer | E6 | Lead | worked | 1986 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| Amazing Grace | E6 | Lead | worked | 17th Jun 1986 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| Boys Will Be Boys | E6 | Solo | worked | 16th Jul 1986 | |
|
First ascent.
John had previously soloed the route in winter above a large snowdrift, only to fail at the cornice. |
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| Moon Crack | E5 | Lead | 1975 | |
|
First ascent.
With only one nut runner |
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| Hairless Heart | E5 | Lead | worked | 1975 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| White Wand | E5 | Lead | worked | 1975 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| London Wall | E5 | Lead | worked | Jul 1975 | |
|
First ascent.
References[1] On The Edge Issue 107, page 47. |
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| Pebble Mill | E5 | Lead | worked | 1976 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| Strapadictomy | E5 | Lead | worked | 1976 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| Anxiety Neurosis | E5 | Lead | 1979 | |
|
Third ascent.
References[1] Mountain 70 (1979), page 18 |
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| Ulysses or Bust | E5 | Solo | 3rd Apr 1984 | |
|
Second ascent.
John had shown up to the crag expecting to make a first ascent |
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| Edge Lane | E5 | Lead | onsight | ||
| Old Friends | E4 | Lead | worked | 1973 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| Great Wall | E4 | Lead | worked | 1975 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| Profit of Doom | E4 | Lead | worked | 1975 | |
| The Knock | E4 | Solo | 1975 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| Moon Walk | E4 | Lead | 1976 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| Nectar | E4 | Lead | 1976 | |
|
First ascent. With Steve Bancroft.
|
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| Requiem | E3 | Lead | 1975 | |
|
First ascent. First free ascent.
|
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| The Asp | E3 | Lead | 1975 | |
|
Second ascent.
References[1] Crags Issue 1, page 2 |
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| The Arête | E2 | Lead | 1973 | |
|
First ascent. First free ascent.
|
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| Suspense | E2 | Lead | 1975 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| The Dangler | E2 | Lead | worked | ||
|
Age 12! |
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| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|