John Allen

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Age 12!

First ascent.

John's first new route, at the age of 12

First ascent.

First ascent. First free ascent.

First ascent.

First ascent. With Steve Bancroft. First free ascent.

First free ascent.

Using a flake which subsequently broke

Top roped in EBs at English 7a.

First ascent.

With only one nut runner

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First ascent.

John arrived at the crag to find the arête caked in Drummond's chalk, inspiring the name.

First ascent.

Originally graded 'modern HVS' [1]

References

[1] Bancroft, S. 'Recent Developments', 1977

First ascent.

First ascent.

First ascent. With Steve Bancroft.

References

[1] Crags Issue 1, page 2

First free ascent.

First ascent.

First ascent.

Second ascent.

References

[1] Crags Issue 1, page 2

First ascent. First free ascent.

First free ascent.

References

[1] Mountain 47 (1975), page 15 /library/11078/mountain-47

References

[1] Mountain 47 (1975), page 15 /library/11078/mountain-47

First free ascent.

Although climbing ground-up, and hence on-sight, John used chalk and to some that was unforgivable at the time!

References

[1] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/john-allen-god-of-grit-the-legend/

First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 107, page 47.

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First ascent.

Peak limestone also drew John in – albeit nowhere near to the same degree as his beloved gritstone and he didn’t have it all his way either. Apocalypse (originally E6 but now E4), a case in point, wasn’t John’s finest hour. John, having seconded Steve up the first pitch, failed to lead the top pitch. Later that month (April 1976), the pair dispatched Castellan (E5 6b, 6b) on High Tor to give one of the hardest routes on Peak limestone. Again, Steve Bancroft got the first and arguable the hardest pitch – something which rankled Allen considerably. That pitch consumed so much time and effort that they had to return a second day to allow Allen to lead the top pitch. That barely consoled the miserable Allen however.

References

[1] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/john-allen-god-of-grit-the-legend/

First ascent.

First ascent.

First ascent. With Steve Bancroft.

First ascent.

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Third ascent.

References

[1] Mountain 70 (1979), page 18

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First ascent. With Tobin Sorenson.

First ascent.

First ascent. With Tobin Sorenson.

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Third ascent.

References

[1] Mountain 70 (1979), page 18

First ascent.

First ascent.

First ascent.

First ascent. With Tobin Sorenson.

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First ascent.

References

[1] https://downloads.porthillsclimbing.nz/Castle-Rock-Rev-A.pdf

First ascent.

First ascent.

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With Simon Horrox.

Graham Hoey:

During this period he also proved his worth on big walls with a phenomenal (non-jumared) ascent in 1981 of The Nose on El Capitan with Simon Horrox in a day. Between them they lead and seconded every pitch; the first time this had ever been achieved, the locals were amazed.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803

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With side runners.

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Allen originally started by coming in from the right, returning later to add the 7C direct start.

Second ascent.

John had shown up to the crag expecting to make a first ascent

First ascent.

With side runners in the route to the right.

Reported in the July/August 1985 issue of Mountain but listed in the guide as having been climbed 16 October 1984.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104

First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104

First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104

First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104

First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104

First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104

First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104

First ascent.

First ascent.

Initially a grade of E3 7a was proposed! [1]

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104

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John had previously soloed the route in winter above a large snowdrift, only to fail at the cornice.

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A sudden attack of new route paranoia whilst driving to The Roaches compelled me to turn around, head for Curbar and pluck up the courage for this line I'd inspected some 12 years ago! I was convinced Fawcett was going to do it at any moment

First ascent.

First ascent.

First ascent.

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With side-runners, traversing in from the chimney

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First ascent.

Date is approximate, c.1994 according to 1996 Chatsworth guide.