John Allen

Also known as: The Boss

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Date of birth: 16th November 1958
Age: 61 years old
Date of death: 18th May 2020
Gender: Male
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7C
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 6c+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E7
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E5
Notable Partnerships
Steve Bancroft
Mark Stokes
Tobin Sorenson

John was a prolific and gifted climber who established a host of hard, classic routes on his local gritstone crags in the peak district.

Lines that had been eyed up by many fell to this prodigious young talent. He climbed Old Friends when he was just 14 and continued adding quality new first ascents from there, such as Hairless Heart, White Wand, Profit of Doom and London Wall which were climbed within a 2 week period at age 16!

While later climbers pushed the numbers up John added a plethora of high quality lines such as West Side Story at Burbage West.

References

[1] Obituary on UKClimbing.com by Graham Hoey, 27th May 2020 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803

[2] List of John Allen routes in New Zealand

[3] 1977 interview

Contributors
TdG
420 contributions since 19th August 2025.
188 contributions since 22nd December 2020.
1 contribution since 7th July 2025.

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Date of birth: 16th November 1958
Date of death: 18th May 2020
Age: 61 years old
Gender: Male
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7C
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 6c+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E7
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E5
Notable Partnerships
Steve Bancroft
Mark Stokes
Tobin Sorenson

John was a prolific and gifted climber who established a host of hard, classic routes on his local gritstone crags in the peak district.

Lines that had been eyed up by many fell to this prodigious young talent. He climbed Old Friends when he was just 14 and continued adding quality new first ascents from there, such as Hairless Heart, White Wand, Profit of Doom and London Wall which were climbed within a 2 week period at age 16!

While later climbers pushed the numbers up John added a plethora of high quality lines such as West Side Story at Burbage West.

References

[1] Obituary on UKClimbing.com by Graham Hoey, 27th May 2020 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803

[2] List of John Allen routes in New Zealand

[3] 1977 interview

Contributors
TdG
420 contributions since 19th August 2025.
188 contributions since 22nd December 2020.
1 contribution since 7th July 2025.

Podcasts

Library

Pics + Vids

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Ascents

95 recorded ascents.

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Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Fandango 6c+ Solo | onsight 1975

References

[1] Mountain 47 (1975), page 15 /library/11078/mountain-47
Wailing Wall 6c Solo | onsight 1975

References

[1] Mountain 47 (1975), page 15 /library/11078/mountain-47
Nether Edge 6c Lead | worked 1979
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Shirley's Shining Temple 7C Boulder | worked 9th Mar 1984 E5
First ascent.

Allen originally started by coming in from the right, returning later to add the 7C direct start.
West Side Story 7B+ Boulder | worked 1985
First ascent.

Initially a grade of E3 7a was proposed! [1]

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104
The Sphinx 7A+ Boulder | worked 1985
First ascent.
Chip Shop Brawl 7A+ Boulder | worked 1987 7A+
First ascent.
Above and Beyond the Kinaesthetic Barrier 7A Boulder | worked 1976
First ascent.
The Day the World Stood Still 7A Boulder | worked 1980
First ascent.
Gritstone Megamix 7A Lead 1984
First ascent.
The Jackalope 7A Boulder | worked 1985
First ascent.
Fidget 6C Boulder | worked 1973
First ascent.
Not to be Taken Away 6C Boulder | worked 1976
First ascent.
Breadline 6C Boulder | worked 1984
First ascent.
Art of Japan 6C Boulder | worked 1986
First ascent.
Technical Master 6B Boulder | worked 1976
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Pacific Ocean Wall Direct E7 Lead | worked 15th Jun 1983
First ascent.

With side runners.
Spanish Fly E7 Lead 1985
First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104
M35 (A35) E6 Lead 1975
First free ascent.

Using a flake which subsequently broke
Ulysses' Bow E6 Top Rope | worked 1975

Top roped in EBs at English 7a.
Fox on a Hot Thin Roof E6 Lead | worked 1979
Third ascent.

References

[1] Mountain 70 (1979), page 18
Wall of Sound E6 Lead | worked 1983
First ascent.
Skidoo E6 Lead | worked 1985
First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104
Lost World E6 Lead | worked 1985
First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104
Grace and Danger E6 Solo | worked 1986
First ascent.
Indian Summer E6 Lead | worked 1986
First ascent.
Amazing Grace E6 Lead | worked 17th Jun 1986
First ascent.
Boys Will Be Boys E6 Solo | worked 16th Jul 1986
First ascent.

John had previously soloed the route in winter above a large snowdrift, only to fail at the cornice.
The Fall E6 Lead | worked 17th Apr 1987
First ascent.

A sudden attack of new route paranoia whilst driving to The Roaches compelled me to turn around, head for Curbar and pluck up the courage for this line I'd inspected some 12 years ago! I was convinced Fawcett was going to do it at any moment
Nefertiti E6 Lead 1989
First ascent.

With side-runners, traversing in from the chimney
Concept of Kinky E6 Lead 15th Jun 1989
First ascent.
Hairless Heart E5 Lead | worked 1975
First ascent.
White Wand E5 Solo | worked 1975
First ascent.

John arrived at the crag to find the arête caked in Drummond's chalk, inspiring the name.
Moon Crack E5 Lead 1975
First ascent.

With only one nut runner
London Wall E5 Lead | worked Jul 1975
First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 107, page 47.
Castellan E5 Alternate Leads | worked 1976
First ascent.

Peak limestone also drew John in – albeit nowhere near to the same degree as his beloved gritstone and he didn’t have it all his way either. Apocalypse (originally E6 but now E4), a case in point, wasn’t John’s finest hour. John, having seconded Steve up the first pitch, failed to lead the top pitch. Later that month (April 1976), the pair dispatched Castellan (E5 6b, 6b) on High Tor to give one of the hardest routes on Peak limestone. Again, Steve Bancroft got the first and arguable the hardest pitch – something which rankled Allen considerably. That pitch consumed so much time and effort that they had to return a second day to allow Allen to lead the top pitch. That barely consoled the miserable Allen however.

References

[1] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/john-allen-god-of-grit-the-legend/
Green Death E5 Lead | onsight 1976
Edge Lane E5 Lead | onsight 1976
Pebble Mill E5 Lead | worked 1976
First ascent.
Caricature E5 Lead | worked 1976
First ascent.
Strapadictomy E5 Lead | worked 1976
First ascent.
Artless E5 Solo 1976
First ascent.
Sheltered Childhood E5 Lead 1979
First ascent.
Enfant Terrible E5 Lead 1979
First ascent.
Go E5 Lead 1979
First ascent.
Salisbury Hill E5 Lead 1979
First ascent.
Anxiety Neurosis E5 Lead 1979
Third ascent.

References

[1] Mountain 70 (1979), page 18
Tjuringa E5 Alternate Leads 1979
First ascent. With Tobin Sorenson.
Aslan E5 Alternate Leads 1979
First ascent. With Tobin Sorenson.
Easy Listening E5 Lead 1980
First ascent.
Fiddler in the Roof E5 Lead | worked 1980
First ascent. With Tobin Sorenson.
The Loom E5 Lead 1980
First ascent.
Stanage Without Oxygen E5 Lead | worked 1983
First ascent.
Cardinal's Treasure E5 Lead 1984
First ascent.
Forbidden Planet E5 Lead 1984
First ascent.
Ai No Corrida E5 Lead 1984
First ascent.

Reported in the July/August 1985 issue of Mountain but listed elsewhere as having been climbed in 1984.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104
Ulysses or Bust E5 Solo 3rd Apr 1984
Second ascent.

John had shown up to the crag expecting to make a first ascent
The Terminator E5 Lead 1985
First ascent.
El Vino Collapso E5 Solo | worked 1985
First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104
New Mediterranean E5 Lead 1985
First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104
Appointment With Fear E5 Lead | worked 1985
First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104
The Igloo E5 Lead 1986
First ascent.
The Children's House E5 Lead | worked 1986
First ascent.
Punishment E5 Lead | worked 1986
First ascent.
Moontan E5 Lead | worked 1987
First ascent.
We Ain't Gonna Pay No Toll E5 Solo 1987
First ascent.
Only Human E5 Lead 1988
First ascent.
Moolah E5 Lead 1988
First ascent.
Smash Your Glasses E5 Lead 1988
First ascent.
The Trickledown Fairy E5 Lead 1988
First ascent.
Feet Neet E5 Lead | worked Mar 1988
First ascent.
Old Friends E4 Lead | worked 1973
First ascent.
The Knock E4 Solo 1975
First ascent.
Great Wall E4 Lead | onsight 1975
First free ascent.

Although climbing ground-up, and hence on-sight, John used chalk and to some that was unforgivable at the time!

References

[1] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/john-allen-god-of-grit-the-legend/
Profit of Doom E4 Lead | worked 1975
First ascent. With Steve Bancroft.

References

[1] Crags Issue 1, page 2
Silent Spring E4 Alternate Leads | worked 1975
First ascent.
Harvest E4 Lead 1975
First ascent.
Moon Walk E4 Lead 1976
First ascent.
Reticent Mass Murderer E4 Lead | worked 1976
First ascent.
Nectar E4 Lead 1976
First ascent. With Steve Bancroft.
The Wasteland E4 Lead 1979
First ascent.
Biggles Tears a Tendon E4 Lead 1980
First ascent.
Wall of Shame E4 Lead 1982
First ascent.
The Moon E3 Alternate Leads 1974
First ascent. With Steve Bancroft. First free ascent.
The Asp E3 Lead 1975
Second ascent.

References

[1] Crags Issue 1, page 2
Requiem E3 Lead 1975
First ascent. First free ascent.
Saville Street E3 Lead 1975
First free ascent.
The Lamia E3 Alternate Leads 1975
First ascent.
Sleeping Sickness E3 Lead 1975
First ascent.
Golden Days E3 Lead 1976
First ascent.
Rambandit E3 Lead | worked 1978
First ascent.
The Dangler E2 Lead | worked 1971

Age 12!
The Arête E2 Lead 1973
First ascent. First free ascent.
Suspense E2 Lead 1975
First free ascent.
Premier HVS Lead Oct 1971
First ascent.

John's first new route, at the age of 12
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade