Wolfgang Güllich

Also known as: WoGü

Quick Info

Nationality: DE
Height: 178 cm
Weight: 68 kg
Date of birth: 24th October 1960
Date of death: 31st August 1992
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7B
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Trad (Worked): E8
Notable Partnerships
Kurt Albert
Jerry Moffatt

A man doesn't go to drink coffee after climbing, coffee is integral part of the climbing.

A sport climbing pioneer. Wolfgang established the first 8b with Kanal im Rücken, 8b+ with Punks in the Gym and 8c with Wallstreet as well as one of the first 8c+/9as with Action Directe.

References

[1] At Raven Tor in the 80s

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2698243753575116

[3] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1465090346890469

[4] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/remembering-wolfgang-gullich-one-of-greatest-climbers-of-all-times.html

[5] A collection of articles from http://www.wolfgangguellich.com/

Contributors: remus

Quick Info

Nationality: DE
Height: 178 cm
Weight: 68 kg
Date of birth: 24th October 1960
Date of death: 31st August 1992
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7B
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Trad (Worked): E8
Notable Partnerships
Kurt Albert
Jerry Moffatt

A man doesn't go to drink coffee after climbing, coffee is integral part of the climbing.

A sport climbing pioneer. Wolfgang established the first 8b with Kanal im Rücken, 8b+ with Punks in the Gym and 8c with Wallstreet as well as one of the first 8c+/9as with Action Directe.

References

[1] At Raven Tor in the 80s

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2698243753575116

[3] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1465090346890469

[4] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/remembering-wolfgang-gullich-one-of-greatest-climbers-of-all-times.html

[5] A collection of articles from http://www.wolfgangguellich.com/

Contributors: remus

Podcasts

Pics + Vids

Added at 18:02 on 25 February 2021
© Thomas Ballenberger
Added at 09:02 on 26 February 2021
Added at 09:02 on 27 February 2021
Added at 09:02 on 27 February 2021
Action Directe (9a, FA)
Added at 20:10 on 16 October 2022
© Thomas Ballenberger
https://www.rokblok.de/post/fame-is-a-bitch
Separate Reality (E5)
Added at 08:02 on 28 February 2021
Separate Reality (E5)
Added at 19:02 on 28 February 2021
Separate Reality (E5)
Added at 20:02 on 28 February 2021
Wallstreet (8c, FA)
Added at 20:02 on 28 February 2021
Punks in the Gym (8b+, FA)
Added at 20:02 on 28 February 2021
Papy on Sight (7c+)
Added at 18:02 on 27 February 2021
Separate Reality (E5)
Added at 18:03 on 01 March 2021
Wallstreet (8c, FA)
Added at 18:03 on 01 March 2021
Wallstreet (8c, FA)
Added at 21:01 on 31 January 2021
Edge Lane (E5)
Added at 22:02 on 27 February 2021
Punks in the Gym (8b+, FA)
Added at 18:02 on 27 February 2021
Punks in the Gym (8b+, FA)
Added at 18:02 on 27 February 2021
La Rose et le Vampire (8b)
Added at 22:02 on 27 February 2021
Midnight Lightning (7B)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 16:09 on 03 September 2022

Ascents

15 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade Ascent Date
1982 Grand Illusion E8 (Lead worked) 1982

Second ascent.

References

[1] Interview with Beth Wald for Climbing magazine, June 1987 /file/9eeda9ea-30d3-bd23-eab0-660b20dbc71c/wolfgang gullich interview by beth wald climbing magazine june 1987.pdf
1983
1984 Kanal im Rücken 8b (Lead worked) 1984
First ascent.
Hitchhike the Plane 7c+ (Lead worked) 1984
First ascent.
Papy on Sight 7c+ (Lead worked) 1984

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/903835756349267
1985 Punks in the Gym 8b+ (Lead worked) 1985
First ascent.

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/937980766268099

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/929016537164522

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/442057275860453
1986 Separate Reality E5 (Solo worked) 1986

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/529040177162162

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/457933647606149

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/453681641364683

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/339232022809646
Kamasutra 218 8b (Lead worked) 1986
First ascent.
Dead Line 8b (Lead worked) 1986
First ascent.
Ghettoblaster 8b (Lead worked) 1986
First ascent.
1987 Wallstreet 8c (Lead worked) 1987
First ascent.

There’s a very difficult boulder on Wallstreet. I came across it and thought it could be possible. During the winter I went training in Nuremberg, and with the help of a professor of physical education I worked on specific muscles, in particular intramuscular coordination associated with reaction speed, in order to be able to do the boulder moves. [1]

References

[1] https://fanatic-climbing.com/il-etait-une-voie-once-upon-a-line-wallstreet/

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/453337488065765

[3] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/337696649629850
1988
1989
1990
1991 Action Directe 9a (Lead worked) 14th Sep 1991
First ascent. 11 sessions.

With this ascent Wolfgang became one of the first people in the world to climb a sport route graded 9a, though at the time he suggested a grade of UIAA XI which translates to 8c+/9a. Famously, he trained specifically for the route by doing single finger campusing.
Climb Grade Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Action Directe 9a (Lead worked) 14th Sep 1991
First ascent. 11 sessions.

With this ascent Wolfgang became one of the first people in the world to climb a sport route graded 9a, though at the time he suggested a grade of UIAA XI which translates to 8c+/9a. Famously, he trained specifically for the route by doing single finger campusing.
Wallstreet 8c (Lead worked) 1987
First ascent.

There’s a very difficult boulder on Wallstreet. I came across it and thought it could be possible. During the winter I went training in Nuremberg, and with the help of a professor of physical education I worked on specific muscles, in particular intramuscular coordination associated with reaction speed, in order to be able to do the boulder moves. [1]

References

[1] https://fanatic-climbing.com/il-etait-une-voie-once-upon-a-line-wallstreet/

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/453337488065765

[3] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/337696649629850
Punks in the Gym 8b+ (Lead worked) 1985
First ascent.

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/937980766268099

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/929016537164522

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/442057275860453
Kanal im Rücken 8b (Lead worked) 1984
First ascent.
Kamasutra 218 8b (Lead worked) 1986
First ascent.
Dead Line 8b (Lead worked) 1986
First ascent.
Ghettoblaster 8b (Lead worked) 1986
First ascent.
La Rose et le Vampire 8b (Lead worked)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/874337119299131
Hitchhike the Plane 7c+ (Lead worked) 1984
First ascent.
Papy on Sight 7c+ (Lead worked) 1984

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/903835756349267
Weedkiller 7c+ (Solo worked)

References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf
Climb Grade Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Midnight Lightning 7B (Boulder worked)

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CiBZ6RpJbtU/
Climb Grade Ascent Date Suggested Grade