Jakob Schubert

After climbing through the crux Jakob snapped a jug off in the relatively easy upper section. Fortunately it wedged in to a crack long enough for him to move to some other holds, narrowly avoiding heartbreak.

On the grade:

To me it felt a whole step beyond Perfecto Mundo which seems confirmed at 9b+. This alongside reflections with Adam [Ondra] made me propose 9c for B.I.G. While in my eyes the range for grades up to 9b seem to have settled due to the total amount of routes and ascents, this doesn’t yet seem the case for 9b+ and 9c, where the possibilities for comparison are still very limited. There are not even 10 climbers that claim to have sent 9b+, and the total of routes graded 9b+ or harder is still below 15, most of which are yet to see repeats. This makes it obvious that confines for both 9b+ and 9c are still blurry and will develop over time and through ascents and shared opinions. I hope they will come soon! [3]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1jBavqTama8

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CxtCl5Lo58g/=

[3] https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/norway/mid-norway/route/8356255512

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmYXe2u0juM

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQdU0jY21Ig

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NmfkrjlsFzU

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jakob-schubert-climbs-third-9b-stoking-the-fire-at-santa-linya.html

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Br8ZYCPBEet/

References

[1] https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/jakob-schubert-repeats-sharmas-el-bon-combat-5-15a-b-suggests-downgrade/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CXT7j6fD3SH/

[2] https://youtu.be/C_-2CEfzFPk?t=502

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CXT7j6fD3SH/

[2] https://youtu.be/C_-2CEfzFPk?t=145

Before sending the route Jakob had a heart breaking fall at the chains when a hold broke. Fortunately he found some new beta and did it next go.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/jakob.schubert/p/CYpCC8HoeKk/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C2aiGdIoRsc/

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/12/joe_mama_9a+_by_jakob_schubert-70874

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOtHqgCrHS8

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ukm8wVEAs5o

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CyOmyaQoDBF/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jvRhsEgg524

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KskvEEi-m9s

Yes! Probably my hardest flash so far, at least I really struggled and had to fight 😅 8c+/9a, hard to grade after the flash since I definitely didn’t climb it optimally.. Thanks for the beta and support Alfons 🙏 [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/tv/CXgvAweDI5H/

[2] https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/spain/siurana/la-capella/route/1724509353

I found a way better solution using a good side pull just left of Adam's crimp which lets me go directly to the finishing jug. Since this route is pretty much easy except this only move, the whole thing is much easier with my beta now, probably around 8b 😅 It climbs very nicely this way though so I definitely recommend it to people (>170cm) 😉 [1]

References

[1] https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/austria/schleier-wasserfall-main/route/689761602

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VXMqDsIpwIk

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kun-YbCcKPk

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cx0cwZgokl0/=

References

[1] https://youtu.be/pU6yCBHdfvs?t=958

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UbzhP93d4H8

[2] https://youtu.be/VmwMuWJxs4Y?t=352

Notably Jakob had not climbed any 8C+s prior to climbing Alphane.

I went from feeling good on the first sessions to basically being about to give up along the way, as I felt that the boulder required more focus and attention than I seemed to have available.

The ride had it all, from inconsistent progress and setbacks, a slip after the hard part, having to wait out bad conditions before feeling worse again on the boulder but somehow battling through, a story of personal perseverance that I'm grateful climbing can provide me with 🥳🥳 [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C1HwsHeIt2w/

[2] https://youtu.be/y47TXwLbCu8?t=864

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/BqlAGsCjvkz/

Wow so psyched to add this kingline! You basically do the hardest part of the original force tranquill and then instead of matching the crimp and going out right you do another big move straight up to a pocket from there you do a rather scary top out. It’s definitely harder than the original line but I like the style a lot so personally I would say it‘s not enough to push it up a full grade. It‘s the logical exit and climbs very well so I would love to see some repititions and hear their opinion 😉 [2]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dr82TsVOEXk

[2] https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/switzerland/alpen/graubunden/magic-wood-averstal/route/729865104

References

[1] https://youtu.be/w-99jH2Ma9E?t=181

References

[1] https://youtu.be/3cMVANB7--U?t=556

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jakob-schubert-flashes-never-ending-story-8b-plus-at-magic-wood-in-switzerland.html

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dG1pXMfyLSM

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=egdKUI8L3Og

My hardest flash!! but not worth :( ripped my pulley at the second to last move. [1]

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/united-states/east-spur/sectors/unknown-sector-834f2/routes/nagual/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CVShxVIDDSk/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hirWmnwVDrQ

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CU2tpGYD0MT/

[2] https://jakob-schubert.com/en/blog-Alasha-Spain.html

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOCwtzqZXWU

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8d08n0KLufw

References

[1] https://youtu.be/VmwMuWJxs4Y?t=757

References

[1] https://youtu.be/pU6yCBHdfvs?t=715

References

[1] https://youtu.be/hirWmnwVDrQ?si=u9f6OvyMyUr_tp6h&t=561