Livin' Large | 8C+ Boulder problem at Rocklands

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• Change Log

First ascent. Around 12 sessions.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/CvU9HKKtjaV/=

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pSbj6mIFy0

Second ascent.

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/138381117

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/8i6MNqKIyr/

Third ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MiQQDIrUYnw

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/B3SI6aGjNV9/

Mega psyched! This line, which is over 8m high, was called the Real Big Project at the time. It was very intimidating to imagine the climbers who tried this in the past fell from the same height as a balcony on the third floor. The first half consisted of compression moves with friction slopers, and the second half was a mental battle(V11-ish) that required delicate footwork. It was only possible to try in perfect conditions in the early morning (~9:00), evening (17:00~), or a cloudy day. However, the approach takes 45 minutes, so early in the morning there weren't enough time to warm up. In the evening there's only a short time after the rock cool down untill the sunset, so a cloudy day is the best. Due to friction issues, the damage to the finger skin was quite severe. If I tried, I had to rest for 2-3 days. So this cloudy day near the end of the tour was my last chance. The conditions were great on this day and every move worked perfectly on the second try. I just focused on each hold in front of me, and didn't feel any fear of heights. It would have been really bad if I missed the last move. I'm glad I climbed, but more than that I'm glad I didn't fall. [3]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CvHzDqhNdtR/?img_index=4

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOVVCJ01qto

[3] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/south-africa/champagne-sector/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/livin-large/