A long standing project that saw a lot of attention before finally succumbing to Simon Lorenzi after 25 days of work.
It's an 'old' project which has been tried long before The Island was opened in 2008. The roof, called "Toit du Nid d'Aigle" by foresters, had been identified as a futuristic project by climbers in 1973 and its sitstart had been tried since the late 1990s. [1]
The name comes from the title of a book that first ascentionist Simon Lorenzi borrowed from his girlfriend to place under his kneepad. [2]
[1] https://bleau.info/coquibus/306875.html
[2] Autissier, Isabelle. Soudain, seuls. France: Stock, 2015.
3 recorded ascents.
| Climber | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|
| Simon Lorenzi | Boulder | worked | 8th Feb 2021 | 9A |
|
First ascent. 25 sessions.
After ticking the stand start quickly the low start was a much more protracted affair, stretching out to 25 days of effort. To make a crucial knee on the sit work better Simon borrowed a book from his girlfriend and placed it underneath his kneepad to make his shin a little longer. The name of the problem comes from the title of the book. Simon also extensively modified his shoes to get the most out of them: starting with a pair of Scarpa Instinct VSRs, he added extra rubber to the top of the shoe for better toe hooking on the big slopers and transplanted the heel from the Drago LV as he found it stuck better on a crucial left heel. References[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CLCxgJ2jDB1/ |
|||
| Nico Pelorson | Boulder | worked | 16th Mar 2021 | 8C+ |
|
Second ascent.
References[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CM9EtIQjeD9/ |
|||
| Camille Coudert | Boulder | worked | 12th Feb 2022 | 9A (soft) |
|
Third ascent. Between 70 and 100 sessions.
Including 43 repeats of The Big Island! References[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CaCJgPBIUR0/ |
|||