Coquibus Rumont

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Impressive line in compression, and an old project from the ages back. Huge moves in between slopers and always at my full extension, so very intense climbing. As the weather has been really bad, and my left hand pulley injury keeps me from crimping, I have a been lucky with this one. 3 days of work; hustlin'

After topping out Dave uttered the immortal words

I am the master of my own world.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uo2RsX2lASg

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/9158157

After ticking the stand start quickly the low start was a much more protracted affair, stretching out to 25 days of effort.

To make a crucial knee on the sit work better Simon borrowed a book from his girlfriend and placed it underneath his kneepad to make his shin a little longer. The name of the problem comes from the title of the book. Simon also extensively modified his shoes to get the most out of them: starting with a pair of Scarpa Instinct VSRs, he added extra rubber to the top of the shoe for better toe hooking on the big slopers and transplanted the heel from the Drago LV as he found it stuck better on a crucial left heel.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CLCxgJ2jDB1/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CLFXX58DbGN/

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNqq-K0HK18

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CX1V4sltCpT/

In total the ascent only took 5 sessions, though this is largely because Simon knew the upper part (i.e. The Big Island) extremely well from the many sessions he spent refining it while working Soudain Seul.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CZFLbkvon44/

[2] https://fanatic-climbing.com/bleau-simon-lorenzi-ouvre-big-conviction-8c-font-simon-lorenzi-frees-big-conviction-8c-interview/

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=260NRRSq4d8