Transcendence, Back Bowden Doors

E9 Trad climb

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/back_bowden_doors-822/transcendence-342

Originally graded E9 but subsequently downgraded to E8 by Robin Barker after the second ascent. Purportedly has some of the hardest moves on a trad route in the UK, and a distinct lack of repeats has helped cement this reputation.

Media

Dan Varian

Ascents

3 recorded ascents.

Climber Style FA Ascent Date
Malcolm Smith Worked 01 Jan 1994 (approx)
Dan Varian Worked 09 Mar 2019

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/03/third_ascent_of_transcendence_e8_6c_by_dan_varian-71896

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVmbGjd3pK8

Robin Barker Worked

Second ascent. Robin had a finger injury at the time!

In terms of the grade, I suspect I was a bit over-zealous with suggesting 6c and 7a is likely the correct grade. In previous discussions with Malcolm I think we agreed something like E8 / 7a / 8b / 7C+. Regardless of the grade, Transcendence is a very fine line with superb climbing and a might good effort from Malcolm at the time. [1]

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg581608.html#msg581608

I held Robin’s ropes when he repeated it. I’ll always remember because he was mid crux and then slapping for the break when a RAF Tornado roared past the crag a few meters away with a body shaking, terrifying, ear splitting boom just as he grabbed the break with one hand just as I clamped both of mine over my ears with the ropes held lightly in one hand. I was mightily relieved that he didn’t fall off. Great days 😳 [2]

[2] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg581588.html#msg581588