Regular Northwest Face | HVS Trad climb at Half Dome


Contributors
duncancritchley
11 contributions since 15th July 2025.
remus
5 contributions since 30th November 2023.

Pics + Vids

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Ascents

5 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Royal Robbins Aid | worked 1957
First ascent.

The first grade VI climb in North America.

Jim Erickson Lead | worked May 1976

With Art Higbee. Nearly free ascent: established the free variations to the lower pitches and climbed the Zig-Zags all free but was stymied by a short section on the penultimate slab pitch. Erickson top-roped and bolted a free variation to this pitch in the fall of 1976 but did not lead it.

Higbee's solution to the Zig-Zags is now graded 5.12d/13a and their nearly free route had some of the hardest climbing in the world at the time.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brBvkOPDCQI

[2] https://enormocast.com/2024/12/enormocast-298-jim-erickson-clean-and-free/

Arnis Strapcans Alternate Leads | onsight 1977

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

Leonard Coyne Lead | worked May 1979
First free ascent.

Coyne led all the hard pitches at "5.12". With Dennis Jackson and Doug Lorimer who did not free the whole route.

References

[1] https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1980_files/AJ%201980%20228-231%20Echevarria%20S%20America.pdf

Alex Honnold Solo | worked 6th Sep 2008

First free solo ascent, via the usual Huber variation to the Zig-Zags (5.12a).

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/news/honnold-free-solos-half-domes-nw-face-2