Alphane | 9A Boulder problem at Chironico

After ~25 sessions.

I would fall on the last move twice a day—I only had two tries per day—and I did that for 10 days…. It’s so long, and I had to be fresh to be able to do the last two moves. So I was trying every other day. [But] it wasn’t too stressful because I like to project. … I didn’t feel like I had to climb it, I was more just enjoying it. [3]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/ChczmRCDDdi/

[2] https://youtu.be/Rx6GPpO37C4?t=2564

[3] https://www.climbing.com/news/shawn-raboutou-alphane-v17/

Second ascent and the first brit to climb 9A.

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/4IjWe3MH6z0HgMcC0Bj8rv?si=a5fc1751876a407b

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj7QrO8DFbv/

[3] https://open.spotify.com/episode/0VYpy4XrjJHAjzjKR8i88I?si=gtfZRQU_Soyn4l25R5yG3Q&utm_source=copy-link

[4] https://youtu.be/zilINHowP2g?t=1119

About 13 days of effort spread over a couple of trips. Before the first ascent Will had been playing on the boulder with Dave Graham and trying some of the moves. At the time the line seemed too futuristic so he didn't dedicate to it.

After Shawn Raboutou made the first ascent Will got psyched on the line again and headed out with Aidan Roberts, initially just to try the line and then, when he made quick progress, to send it.

In terms of a grade, I personally felt that Honey Badger was more of a challenge for me and proposing a grade for that at the time was daunting as it was my first 8C+. At the cutting edge of climbing, grading feels so much more difficult as the margins are that much finer and personal strengths and preferences really come into play.

Is it 9A? Honestly, I do not know and as I gain more experience of climbing around this grade range I may have a better view, but it is a fantastic line established by Shawn [Raboutou] and I look forward to seeing more experienced climbers comment on where the grade sits. [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CkdgyVDDNAZ/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2022/11/will_bosi_claims_the_third_ascent_of_alphane-73186

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8uBS9OYa2P8

About 20 sessions of work spread over two trips.

The boulder for me is an addition of an 8C and an 8B without rest, followed by an end in 7B+ traverse. The grade of 9A therefore seems very coherent to me. And indeed it seems to me a good step above all the 8C+ that I have done or tried. We all know that the grades have a subjective side and it’s part of the game so let’s just let the time and the repetitions do the work before jumping into fast conclusions on this or that boulder. [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CmM4XYUj2AW/

[2] Interview with fanatic-climbing.com, December 2022 https://fanatic-climbing.com/simon-lorenzi-coche-alphane-simon-lorenzi-ticks-alphane-interview/