Change Log for Shikantaza

Overview

Total Changes

19

First Change

7th Nov 2021

Last Change

1st Oct 2024

Log

Date Time User Type Name Attribute
1 1st October 2024 21:11:15 remus ascent James Pearson suggested_grade_id
Before
329
After
449
2 1st October 2024 20:49:12 remus - - grade_approx
Before
true
After
false
3 1st October 2024 20:49:02 remus ascent James Pearson notes
Before
> I was still a little apprehensive about trying it on the lead, as a fall could have pretty nasty consequences. It feels very much like a Grit route, where it's really, really short, but there's only a small section which is particularly dangerous. However, you can very quickly do one move too many and go from feeling very safe, to suddenly realising that if you make a mistake you're going to hit the floor. [1] ### References [1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/james_pearson_makes_first_repeat_of_shikantaza-73811](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/james_pearson_makes_first_repeat_of_shikantaza-73811)
After
> I was still a little apprehensive about trying it on the lead, as a fall could have pretty nasty consequences. It feels very much like a Grit route, where it's really, really short, but there's only a small section which is particularly dangerous. However, you can very quickly do one move too many and go from feeling very safe, to suddenly realising that if you make a mistake you're going to hit the floor. [1] ### References [1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/james_pearson_makes_first_repeat_of_shikantaza-73811](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/james_pearson_makes_first_repeat_of_shikantaza-73811) [2] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOe_pqQ8Auk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOe_pqQ8Auk)
Diff
--- before +++ after @@ -2,4 +2,6 @@ ### References -[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/james_pearson_makes_first_repeat_of_shikantaza-73811](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/james_pearson_makes_first_repeat_of_shikantaza-73811) +[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/james_pearson_makes_first_repeat_of_shikantaza-73811](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/james_pearson_makes_first_repeat_of_shikantaza-73811) + +[2] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOe_pqQ8Auk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOe_pqQ8Auk)
4 1st October 2024 20:49:02 remus ascent James Pearson notes_pretty
Before
<blockquote> <p>I was still a little apprehensive about trying it on the lead, as a fall could have pretty nasty consequences. It feels very much like a Grit route, where it's really, really short, but there's only a small section which is particularly dangerous. However, you can very quickly do one move too many and go from feeling very safe, to suddenly realising that if you make a mistake you're going to hit the floor. [1]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/james_pearson_makes_first_repeat_of_shikantaza-73811">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/james_pearson_makes_first_repeat_of_shikantaza-73811</a></p>
After
<blockquote> <p>I was still a little apprehensive about trying it on the lead, as a fall could have pretty nasty consequences. It feels very much like a Grit route, where it's really, really short, but there's only a small section which is particularly dangerous. However, you can very quickly do one move too many and go from feeling very safe, to suddenly realising that if you make a mistake you're going to hit the floor. [1]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/james_pearson_makes_first_repeat_of_shikantaza-73811">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/james_pearson_makes_first_repeat_of_shikantaza-73811</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOe_pqQ8Auk">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOe_pqQ8Auk</a></p>
5 1st October 2024 20:49:02 remus ascent James Pearson suggested_grade_id
Before
None
After
329
6 1st October 2024 20:47:56 remus ascent James Pearson notes
Before
### References [1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/james_pearson_makes_first_repeat_of_shikantaza-73811](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/james_pearson_makes_first_repeat_of_shikantaza-73811)
After
> I was still a little apprehensive about trying it on the lead, as a fall could have pretty nasty consequences. It feels very much like a Grit route, where it's really, really short, but there's only a small section which is particularly dangerous. However, you can very quickly do one move too many and go from feeling very safe, to suddenly realising that if you make a mistake you're going to hit the floor. [1] ### References [1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/james_pearson_makes_first_repeat_of_shikantaza-73811](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/james_pearson_makes_first_repeat_of_shikantaza-73811)
Diff
--- before +++ after @@ -1,3 +1,5 @@ +> I was still a little apprehensive about trying it on the lead, as a fall could have pretty nasty consequences. It feels very much like a Grit route, where it's really, really short, but there's only a small section which is particularly dangerous. However, you can very quickly do one move too many and go from feeling very safe, to suddenly realising that if you make a mistake you're going to hit the floor. [1] + ### References [1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/james_pearson_makes_first_repeat_of_shikantaza-73811](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/james_pearson_makes_first_repeat_of_shikantaza-73811)
7 1st October 2024 20:47:56 remus ascent James Pearson notes_pretty
Before
<h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/james_pearson_makes_first_repeat_of_shikantaza-73811">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/james_pearson_makes_first_repeat_of_shikantaza-73811</a></p>
After
<blockquote> <p>I was still a little apprehensive about trying it on the lead, as a fall could have pretty nasty consequences. It feels very much like a Grit route, where it's really, really short, but there's only a small section which is particularly dangerous. However, you can very quickly do one move too many and go from feeling very safe, to suddenly realising that if you make a mistake you're going to hit the floor. [1]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/james_pearson_makes_first_repeat_of_shikantaza-73811">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/james_pearson_makes_first_repeat_of_shikantaza-73811</a></p>
8 1st October 2024 20:46:47 remus ascent James Pearson notes
Before
None
After
### References [1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/james_pearson_makes_first_repeat_of_shikantaza-73811](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/james_pearson_makes_first_repeat_of_shikantaza-73811)
Diff
--- before +++ after @@ -1 +1,3 @@ - +### References + +[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/james_pearson_makes_first_repeat_of_shikantaza-73811](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/james_pearson_makes_first_repeat_of_shikantaza-73811)
9 1st October 2024 20:46:47 remus ascent James Pearson ascent_type_id
Before
None
After
1
10 1st October 2024 20:46:47 remus ascent James Pearson ascent_dt_start
Before
None
After
2024-09-26
11 1st October 2024 20:46:47 remus ascent James Pearson ascent_dt_end
Before
None
After
2024-09-26
12 1st October 2024 20:46:47 remus ascent James Pearson notes_pretty
Before
None
After
<h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/james_pearson_makes_first_repeat_of_shikantaza-73811">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/james_pearson_makes_first_repeat_of_shikantaza-73811</a></p>
13 1st October 2024 20:46:47 remus ascent James Pearson climber_id
Before
None
After
153
14 1st October 2024 20:46:47 remus ascent James Pearson climb_id
Before
None
After
1582
15 1st October 2024 20:46:47 remus ascent James Pearson ascent_style_id
Before
None
After
1
16 22nd March 2024 19:44:55 remus ascent Jacopo Larcher notes_pretty
Before
<blockquote> <p>The route is located on a big boulder at the base of Sergent; it starts following a sloper rail on a prow until a good flake, where you place some micro cams before setting off for the crux section. After a few moves you reach a good crimp, on which I decided to place a cliff as protection; the placement looks good, but the hold is a loose flake, which would probably break if you take a big fall. I tensioned (on lead) the hook with some cord to a lower cam to stop it from falling off accidentally. The next section involves some technical moves and small crimps and ends with some insecure moves to a big flake, where you can finally place some more gear before the easier top out. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jacopo-larcher-adds-two-difficult-trad-climbs-to-valle-dell-orco-italy.html">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jacopo-larcher-adds-two-difficult-trad-climbs-to-valle-dell-orco-italy.html</a></p>
After
<blockquote> <p>The route is located on a big boulder at the base of Sergent; it starts following a sloper rail on a prow until a good flake, where you place some micro cams before setting off for the crux section. After a few moves you reach a good crimp, on which I decided to place a cliff as protection; the placement looks good, but the hold is a loose flake, which would probably break if you take a big fall. I tensioned (on lead) the hook with some cord to a lower cam to stop it from falling off accidentally. The next section involves some technical moves and small crimps and ends with some insecure moves to a big flake, where you can finally place some more gear before the easier top out. [1]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jacopo-larcher-adds-two-difficult-trad-climbs-to-valle-dell-orco-italy.html">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jacopo-larcher-adds-two-difficult-trad-climbs-to-valle-dell-orco-italy.html</a></p>
17 22nd March 2024 19:44:55 remus ascent Jacopo Larcher notes
Before
> The route is located on a big boulder at the base of Sergent; it starts following a sloper rail on a prow until a good flake, where you place some micro cams before setting off for the crux section. After a few moves you reach a good crimp, on which I decided to place a cliff as protection; the placement looks good, but the hold is a loose flake, which would probably break if you take a big fall. I tensioned (on lead) the hook with some cord to a lower cam to stop it from falling off accidentally. The next section involves some technical moves and small crimps and ends with some insecure moves to a big flake, where you can finally place some more gear before the easier top out. [1] [1] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jacopo-larcher-adds-two-difficult-trad-climbs-to-valle-dell-orco-italy.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jacopo-larcher-adds-two-difficult-trad-climbs-to-valle-dell-orco-italy.html)
After
> The route is located on a big boulder at the base of Sergent; it starts following a sloper rail on a prow until a good flake, where you place some micro cams before setting off for the crux section. After a few moves you reach a good crimp, on which I decided to place a cliff as protection; the placement looks good, but the hold is a loose flake, which would probably break if you take a big fall. I tensioned (on lead) the hook with some cord to a lower cam to stop it from falling off accidentally. The next section involves some technical moves and small crimps and ends with some insecure moves to a big flake, where you can finally place some more gear before the easier top out. [1] ### References [1] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jacopo-larcher-adds-two-difficult-trad-climbs-to-valle-dell-orco-italy.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jacopo-larcher-adds-two-difficult-trad-climbs-to-valle-dell-orco-italy.html)
Diff
--- before +++ after @@ -1,3 +1,5 @@ > The route is located on a big boulder at the base of Sergent; it starts following a sloper rail on a prow until a good flake, where you place some micro cams before setting off for the crux section. After a few moves you reach a good crimp, on which I decided to place a cliff as protection; the placement looks good, but the hold is a loose flake, which would probably break if you take a big fall. I tensioned (on lead) the hook with some cord to a lower cam to stop it from falling off accidentally. The next section involves some technical moves and small crimps and ends with some insecure moves to a big flake, where you can finally place some more gear before the easier top out. [1] +### References + [1] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jacopo-larcher-adds-two-difficult-trad-climbs-to-valle-dell-orco-italy.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jacopo-larcher-adds-two-difficult-trad-climbs-to-valle-dell-orco-italy.html)
18 25th April 2022 18:40:42 remus - - -
Before
None
After
None
19 7th November 2021 20:29:04 remus - - -
Before
None
After
None

Page 1