Previously tried by Daniel Woods before Shawn Raboutou made the first ascent. Also tried extensively by Drew Ruana who, at the time of writing, had put 75 sessions in to it.
To me it breaks down into a 8 move v15/16 that’s on nasty crimps and underclings that feel like they’re gonna rip your pulley. There’s one right hand throw move to where the 14 starts that’s one of the hardest moves I’ve ever done and you basically have to climb v13/14 into a hard v12+ single move. Then do a bunch of foot moves and weird cut to establish on the 14. From there the 14 stand is guarding the top- you’ve already done a fucked up hard boulder (took me more days to link the sit than any other v15 and most v16s have taken me) into a nasty series undercling thrutches with bad feet. The 14 is wireable but having the energy to own those underclings at the end of basically climbing v17 is hard. To me this felt like a solid step up from rotsw [Return of the Sleepwalker], if rotsw had 1-2 more crux moves it’d be comparable I think. [1]
The problem was discovered by Chad Greedy. He gave it the working name partly after his pet chameleon, Megatron, who died shortly after he found the problem. [4]
[1] https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/yw2uct/comment/iwi7mfx/
3 recorded ascents, including 2 unsuccessful ascents.
| Climber | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|
| Daniel Woods | Boulder | did not finish | 2019 | |
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In 2018 Daniel put a month or so in to trying to link the lower section. References |
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| Shawn Raboutou | Boulder | worked | 2022 | |
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First ascent.
Shawn started trying the problem in autumn of 2021 but was not able to climb the problem:
He then came back after climbing Alphane in April 2022 to try the line again.
The ascent was kept under wraps for a long time. Climbing.com:
References[1] https://www.8a.nu/news/shawns-9as-rumours-qpmk1 [2] https://www.climbing.com/news/shawn-raboutou-alphane-v17/ |
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| Drew Ruana | Boulder | did not finish | ||
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Over 60 sessions.
References |
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