Eldorado Canyon

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First ascent made with a rest on a piton placed on lead. Ament reports he "later returned and climbed it without any sort of rest." [1]. Sometimes claimed as the first 5.11 in Colorado [2].

References

[1] https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105751363/supremacy-crack

[2] Jones, Chris (1976). Climbing in North America. Berkeley, CA, USA: University of California press (for the AAC). pp. 297

The line Wunsch climbed was never repeated. He climbed a large flake leading to some hard moves on small crimps, but while David Breashears was trying to make the second ascent he noticed the flake was very loose. Breashears was able to remove the flake in a few pieces and bring it back to the ground in the hope of re-attaching it, but it was not to be. [1]

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/people/cleaning-up-climbing-history/

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/people/cleaning-up-climbing-history/

Christian came in for some criticism of the style in which he made the first ascent, first top roping the route and then bolting it.

Paris Girl was conceived of and created as a statement. The tactics and style in which the route was produced were all carefully considered and weighed next to "traditional ethics" and should be communicated.

On the first ascent, I did top­ rope the route, hangdog sections and then after this, rappelled and placed seven bolts to create from a top-rope problem one for the lead. The idea of the route was not to pull the wool over people's eyes but rather to open a few to the new dimensions climbing has evolved into in the last few years. [1]

References

[1] Mountain Issue 107, page 43 /library/11129/mountain-107

No falls after abseil inspection to place knifeblade peg

References

[1] https://climbingnarc.com/2009/03/matt-segal-sends-new-trad-line-in-eldo/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/BRkEnBYjgHv/

Shawn started trying the problem in autumn of 2021 but was not able to climb the problem:

It was a really good season so I was able to try it all the way to mid/end December. My season came to an end, my body was starting to fall apart. My whole right arm would just go numb after a try. It was really bad! [4]

He then came back after climbing Alphane in April 2022 to try the line again.

It didn't feel like a good day, I didn't feel like I was going to do it. This one try, I just fucking kept going, I don't know what happened. [4]

The ascent was kept under wraps for a long time. Climbing.com:

While Raboutou was willing to comment on Alphane, he wasn’t ready to disclose what else he’s done that we should know about. Though unverified by Climbing, rumors circulate that Raboutou has also sent the Megatron project, in Colorado, another presumed V17. When asked about it, he simply replied, “I have another cool video coming out soon.” [2]

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/news/shawns-9as-rumours-qpmk1

[2] https://www.climbing.com/news/shawn-raboutou-alphane-v17/

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/Ck_SnuhDXC8/

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_MniTA8MYU