Climbing History

A selected history of climbing and mountaineering through the climbers, climbs and media.

2308 Climbers

4062 Climbs

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Action Directe | 9a Sport route at Waldkopf

Action Directe is a sport route in the Waldkopf area of the Frankenjura in Germany. It was first climbed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 who suggested a grade UIAA grade of XI which equates to roughly 8c+/9a. It has since settled at 9a making it one of the first of the grade in the world.

The route is famous for it's brutal, uncompromising climbing on one- and two-finger pockets. While training for the first ascent Wolfgang famously made use of the first campus board in the world (the board was erected in the Campus Centre gym in Nürnberg hence the name).

After an easier initial section leading to a ledge and hands-off rest the route consists of around 20 hand moves, a pure power-endurance testpiece.

The route is named after the french terror group of the same name.

References

[1] Written in Stone, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/3XjUWgzU7IMJgEWPzequbq?

[2] Written in Stone interview with Ben Cossey, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/0jLxfy5CRlOTykTmtG7MZe?

[3] Written in Stone interview with Alex Megos, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/5nhDlvoMlXj4jvCROnwSh6?

After an easier initial section leading to a ledge and hands-off rest the route consists of around 20 hand moves, a pure power-endurance testpiece.

The route is named after the french terror group of the same name.

References

[1] Written in Stone, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/3XjUWgzU7IMJgEWPzequbq?

[2] Written in Stone interview with Ben Cossey, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/0jLxfy5CRlOTykTmtG7MZe?

[3] Written in Stone interview with Alex Megos, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/5nhDlvoMlXj4jvCROnwSh6?

Pics + Vids

Featuring 5401 pictures and videos. Try searching for a climber, climb or summit to see pics and videos.

Daniel Fisher on Vertigo (E9)

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Jorge Díaz-Rullo on Mejorando la Samfaina (9b+)

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Yannick Flohé on Ephyra (8C+)

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Dave Cuthbertson on Ring of Steall (8c+)

Anna Stöhr on New Base Line (8B+)

Carlo Traversi on From Dirt Grows the Flowers (8C)

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