Climbing History
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Action Directe | 9a Sport route at Waldkopf
Action Directe is a sport route in the Waldkopf area of the Frankenjura in Germany. It was first climbed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 who suggested a grade UIAA grade of XI which equates to roughly 8c+/9a. It has since settled at 9a making it one of the first of the grade in the world.
The route is famous for it's brutal, uncompromising climbing on one- and two-finger pockets. While training for the first ascent Wolfgang famously made use of the first campus board in the world (the board was erected in the Campus Centre gym in Nürnberg hence the name).
After an easier initial section leading to a ledge and hands-off rest the route consists of around 20 hand moves, a pure power-endurance testpiece.
The route is named after the french terror group of the same name.
References
[1] Written in Stone, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/3XjUWgzU7IMJgEWPzequbq?
[2] Written in Stone interview with Ben Cossey, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/0jLxfy5CRlOTykTmtG7MZe?
[3] Written in Stone interview with Alex Megos, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/5nhDlvoMlXj4jvCROnwSh6?
Action Directe is a sport route in the Waldkopf area of the Frankenjura in Germany. It was first climbed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 who suggested a grade UIAA grade of XI which equates to roughly 8c+/9a. It has since settled at 9a making it one of the first of the grade in the world.
The route is famous for it's brutal, uncompromising climbing on one- and two-finger pockets. While training for the first ascent Wolfgang famously made use of the first campus board in the world (the board was erected in the Campus Centre gym in Nürnberg hence the name).
After an easier initial section leading to a ledge and hands-off rest the route consists of around 20 hand moves, a pure power-endurance testpiece.
The route is named after the french terror group of the same name.
References
[1] Written in Stone, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/3XjUWgzU7IMJgEWPzequbq?
[2] Written in Stone interview with Ben Cossey, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/0jLxfy5CRlOTykTmtG7MZe?
[3] Written in Stone interview with Alex Megos, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/5nhDlvoMlXj4jvCROnwSh6?
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- James Pearson on The Nugget, January 2024
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- Ben Moon on TrainingBeta, August 2015
- Kaya Lindasy on The Enormocast, August 2022
Recent updates
References
The same day James McHaffie made the first ascent. [1]
References
[1] https://danmcmanus.blogspot.com/2016/10/gogarth-new-routing.html
Yuji attempted to onsight Salathé Wall falling only three times, once on The Teflon Corner and then twice on The Headwall.
I put so much energy into this project. Every single minute was great. If I had to pick my best climbing moment, then I'd choose the Salathe on-sight attempt in 1997. This is my fondest memory so far in my entire climbing career. [1]
We ascended the route in two days as [Yuji] fought to onsight the route. If I recall correctly we made it to the teflon corner and a little beyond the first day. The second day Yuji threw himself at the head wall. An effort like this has not been done even in recent times despite all the traffic and beta on the route. For 1997 it was way off the charts, only the past 27 years confirms that. [2]
References
[2]https://www.instagram.com/p/DCTyllktwK7/?hl=en
[3]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZueiGMv4x6w&ab_channel=narutokintoki
Dan was unable to climb the headwall pitch free.
References
[1] https://danmcmanus.blogspot.com/2014/05/salathe-wall.html