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Akira | 9a Sport route

Akira is a route with a complicated history and a degree of controversy, largely around the fact that first ascenionist Fred Rouhling suggested a grade of 9b at a time when 9a was the cutting edge and no routes had been proposed at 9a+ (though some routes from the era have subsequently been upgraded to 9a+, for example Mutation at Raven Tor). Subsequent ascentionists have suggested 9a is more appropriate. To complicate things even further, the repeat ascentionists chose not use kneebars but did suggest that using them would lower the grade further.

Holds may have come and go on the first part of the route:

Can confirm via a friend that worked Akira pretty hard that the initial section used to be 8B. His breakdown was 8B to a crap rest on a 3 finger pocket into a second 8B to the lip. He never tried the final rope section (8a?) as he thought it was pointless. [1] [2] [3]

Dani Andrada:

I almost did it [Akira]. I fell at the last move of the boulder crux. I find that section hard for 7C as Bouin and Lucien Martinez have now proposed. It's a boulder of about eight moves, which can be 8A or 8A+ in my opinion. I think the proposal of 9a is correct taking into account that they may have made some moves with kneebars as well. I went 7 or 8 days to try it. The place is quite ugly and I had a hard time finding someone to accompany me. The route is in the same style as Ali Hulk in the Cave of Ali Baba, in Rodellar, but the spot is so ugly that it is difficult to motivate oneself to go there. [4]

Jean-Baptiste Tribout, speaking in 2000:

I visited Akira in 1995 it is certainly one of the hardest routes in the world that I have ever seen, and I climbed on it and managed to do a lot of the moves, but I couldn't do the hardest moves. To be able to link up all thes hard moves into one clean ascent is incredibly hard. It's a completely natural route, which is great! The route i also very technical, and scary in a way because it is 3 to 4m off the ground it's difficult to commit to the moves, and with these moves you could fall flat on your back. [9]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg621712.html#msg621712

[2] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg621740.html#msg621740

[3] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg621741.html#msg621741

[4] https://woguclimbing.com/seb-bouin-lucien-martinez-repiten-akira-opinan-9a/

[5] https://www.grimper.com/news-25-ans-apres-akira-enfin-repetee-etions

[6] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/11/fred_rouhlings_akira_repeated_-_twice-72635

[7] https://www.instagram.com/p/CH52khijvz7/

[8] https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?

[9] On The Edge Issue 102, page 43

Akira is a route with a complicated history and a degree of controversy, largely around the fact that first ascenionist Fred Rouhling suggested a grade of 9b at a time when 9a was the cutting edge and no routes had been proposed at 9a+ (though some routes from the era have subsequently been upgraded to 9a+, for example Mutation at Raven Tor). Subsequent ascentionists have suggested 9a is more appropriate. To complicate things even further, the repeat ascentionists chose not use kneebars but did suggest that using them would lower the grade further.

Holds may have come and go on the first part of the route:

Can confirm via a friend that worked Akira pretty hard that the initial section used to be 8B. His breakdown was 8B to a crap rest on a 3 finger pocket into a second 8B to the lip. He never tried the final rope section (8a?) as he thought it was pointless. [1] [2] [3]

Dani Andrada:

I almost did it [Akira]. I fell at the last move of the boulder crux. I find that section hard for 7C as Bouin and Lucien Martinez have now proposed. It's a boulder of about eight moves, which can be 8A or 8A+ in my opinion. I think the proposal of 9a is correct taking into account that they may have made some moves with kneebars as well. I went 7 or 8 days to try it. The place is quite ugly and I had a hard time finding someone to accompany me. The route is in the same style as Ali Hulk in the Cave of Ali Baba, in Rodellar, but the spot is so ugly that it is difficult to motivate oneself to go there. [4]

Jean-Baptiste Tribout, speaking in 2000:

I visited Akira in 1995 it is certainly one of the hardest routes in the world that I have ever seen, and I climbed on it and managed to do a lot of the moves, but I couldn't do the hardest moves. To be able to link up all thes hard moves into one clean ascent is incredibly hard. It's a completely natural route, which is great! The route i also very technical, and scary in a way because it is 3 to 4m off the ground it's difficult to commit to the moves, and with these moves you could fall flat on your back. [9]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg621712.html#msg621712

[2] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg621740.html#msg621740

[3] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg621741.html#msg621741

[4] https://woguclimbing.com/seb-bouin-lucien-martinez-repiten-akira-opinan-9a/

[5] https://www.grimper.com/news-25-ans-apres-akira-enfin-repetee-etions

[6] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/11/fred_rouhlings_akira_repeated_-_twice-72635

[7] https://www.instagram.com/p/CH52khijvz7/

[8] https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?

[9] On The Edge Issue 102, page 43

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Adam Ondra's ascent of Om
Media

Bain was a dream route for me as a historical tick - it's up there with the likes of Action Directe, Hubble, Om, Mutation, Northern Lights etc. These are the kind of sport routes which inspire me the most. I'm not one for getting excited when I top routes out but have to say this one definitely gave me a 'c'mon yes!' moment. Next... It is time for home and work! [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Bv8oUzjBuiT/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/04/bain_de_sang_9a_by_ryan_pasquill-71911

Media

Bain was a dream route for me as a historical tick - it's up there with the likes of Action Direct, Hubble, Om, Mutation, Northern Lights etc. These are the kind of sport routes which inspire me the most. I'm not one for getting excited when I top routes out but have to say this one definitely gave me a 'c'mon yes!' moment. Next... It is time for home and work! [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Bv8oUzjBuiT/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/04/bain_de_sang_9a_by_ryan_pasquill-71911

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It was one of those longterm projects, which you never know if it will go for sure. I started trying it two years ago. It was just after completing L'Isola che no c'é. I enjoy having this kind of projects where you can go back over and over again, and slowly, try after try, you start to visualize the complete picture of it.

It is a sit down start on a big snake like looking structure, which also gives the name to the problem. Some powerful moves on pockets underclings that bring you to a tricky traverse with more pockets and a finish with long moves into a big flake. It ends in another problem called Mosaik, rated V11 or 8A. The first four moves are by far the hardest, but the last ten are quite delicate and bring a great dimension to the line.

Most of the time I don't grade my boulders anymore, but people are still curious what they could be. On this one my feeling lies around 8C boulder, as it felt as the hardest boulder I ever did on pockets. For sure the hardest thing since L'isola che non c'é and reckoning the time spent on it anyway an important line for me. [2]

References

[1] https://youtu.be/dQW3v7-pYXk?t=302

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/09/fred_nicole_climbs_le_boa_-_new_font_8c-64179

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