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10721 3rd October 2025 08:21:06 UTC TdG climb Master's Wall notes
Before
Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): Indian Face. [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996 [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict: > I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [[Jerry](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1) There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent. [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook: > The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2) However, [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie), based on photographs and Jerry's account, Caff believes Jerry took a high traverse line: >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1) ### References [1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock) [2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon
After
Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996 [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict: > I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [[Jerry](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1) There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent. [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook: > The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2) However, [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie), based on photographs and Jerry's account, Caff believes Jerry took a high traverse line: >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1) ### References [1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock) [2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon
Diff
--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@

-Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): Indian Face.
+Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face).

[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996

10722 3rd October 2025 08:20:44 UTC TdG climb Master's Wall notes_pretty
Before
<p>Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. Jerry moved right from this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle">Spreadeagle</a>. The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes">Johnny Dawes</a>: Indian Face.</p> <p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996</p> <p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p> <blockquote> <p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [<a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt">Jerry</a>] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p> <p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p> <blockquote> <p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p> </blockquote> <p>However, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">James McHaffie</a>, based on photographs and Jerry's account, Caff believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p> <blockquote> <p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p> <p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>
After
<p>Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle">Spreadeagle</a>. The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes">Johnny Dawes</a>: Indian Face.</p> <p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996</p> <p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p> <blockquote> <p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [<a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt">Jerry</a>] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p> <p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p> <blockquote> <p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p> </blockquote> <p>However, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">James McHaffie</a>, based on photographs and Jerry's account, Caff believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p> <blockquote> <p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p> <p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>
10723 3rd October 2025 08:20:44 UTC TdG climb Master's Wall notes
Before
Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): Indian Face. [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996 [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict: > I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [[Jerry](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1) There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent. [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook: > The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2) However, [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie), based on photographs and Jerry's account, Caff believes Jerry took a high traverse line: >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1) ### References [1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock) [2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon
After
Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): Indian Face. [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996 [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict: > I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [[Jerry](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1) There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent. [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook: > The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2) However, [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie), based on photographs and Jerry's account, Caff believes Jerry took a high traverse line: >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1) ### References [1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock) [2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon
Diff
--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@

-Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): Indian Face.
+Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): Indian Face.

[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996

10724 3rd October 2025 08:20:27 UTC TdG climb Master's Wall notes_pretty
Before
<p>Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead">John Redhead</a> in 1980: pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. Jerry moved right from this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle">Spreadeagle</a>. The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes">Johnny Dawes</a>: Indian Face.</p> <p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996</p> <p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p> <blockquote> <p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [<a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt">Jerry</a>] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p> <p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p> <blockquote> <p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p> </blockquote> <p>However, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">James McHaffie</a>, based on photographs and Jerry's account, Caff believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p> <blockquote> <p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p> <p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>
After
<p>Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. Jerry moved right from this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle">Spreadeagle</a>. The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes">Johnny Dawes</a>: Indian Face.</p> <p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996</p> <p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p> <blockquote> <p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [<a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt">Jerry</a>] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p> <p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p> <blockquote> <p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p> </blockquote> <p>However, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">James McHaffie</a>, based on photographs and Jerry's account, Caff believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p> <blockquote> <p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p> <p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>
10725 3rd October 2025 08:20:27 UTC TdG climb Master's Wall notes
Before
Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980: pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): Indian Face. [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996 [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict: > I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [[Jerry](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1) There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent. [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook: > The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2) However, [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie), based on photographs and Jerry's account, Caff believes Jerry took a high traverse line: >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1) ### References [1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock) [2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon
After
Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): Indian Face. [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996 [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict: > I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [[Jerry](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1) There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent. [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook: > The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2) However, [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie), based on photographs and Jerry's account, Caff believes Jerry took a high traverse line: >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1) ### References [1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock) [2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon
Diff
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-Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980: pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): Indian Face.
+Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): Indian Face.

[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996

10726 3rd October 2025 08:20:13 UTC TdG climb Master's Wall notes_pretty
Before
<blockquote> <p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>
After
<p>Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead">John Redhead</a> in 1980: pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. Jerry moved right from this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle">Spreadeagle</a>. The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes">Johnny Dawes</a>: Indian Face.</p> <p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996</p> <p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p> <blockquote> <p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [<a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt">Jerry</a>] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p> <p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p> <blockquote> <p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p> </blockquote> <p>However, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">James McHaffie</a>, based on photographs and Jerry's account, Caff believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p> <blockquote> <p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p> <p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>
10727 3rd October 2025 08:20:13 UTC TdG climb Master's Wall notes
Before
> The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang. ### References [1] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon
After
Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980: pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): Indian Face. [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996 [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict: > I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [[Jerry](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1) There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent. [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook: > The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2) However, [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie), based on photographs and Jerry's account, Caff believes Jerry took a high traverse line: >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1) ### References [1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock) [2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon
Diff
--- before

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-> The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.
+Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980: pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): Indian Face.
+
+[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996
+
+[James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:
+
+> I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [[Jerry](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)
+
+There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.
+
+[Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook:
+
+> The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)
+
+However, [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie), based on photographs and Jerry's account, Caff believes Jerry took a high traverse line:
+
+ >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)

### References

-[1] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon
+[1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock)
+
+[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon
+
+
10728 2nd October 2025 15:52:20 UTC TdG media https://www.instagram.com/p/CoMouAtN-GE/ missing_right_to_reproduce
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10729 2nd October 2025 15:52:20 UTC TdG media https://www.instagram.com/p/CoMouAtN-GE/ embed_code
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10730 2nd October 2025 15:52:20 UTC TdG media https://www.instagram.com/p/CoMouAtN-GE/ url
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10731 2nd October 2025 15:52:20 UTC TdG ascent James McHaffie's ascent of Indian Face notes_pretty
Before
<blockquote> <p>Looking down the crux headwall to the resting foothold I’m glad I never tried it from the deck as much as Redhead would think me someone of low libido. I’ve never been on a climb with so many ‘almost holds’ for both hands and feet where it ‘s easy to get it wrong and what could be a 5c move could become a 6b move. […] I found 1 ok RP but if not placed perfectly it would pull through and it was hard to judge if it would take a fall. 3 other rp1s near it weren’t that inspiring either. I checked the moves and gear lower down and was a slightly appalled. The filed down rock 6 mentioned in the old guide is not there which is why I didn’t find it in 2000, where I presume it went a quarter in, offset 5 or sideways rp5 may take some bodyweight. 3 meter beyond a 3rd in sideways rock 7 again possibly takes some bodyweight. These 2 bits are your pro until the ‘gear’ nest at ¾ height, I can only think the gear has changed over the years for <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead">redhead</a> to survive a fall down the groove or else the ‘Gods’ were smiling on him that day. (1)</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/the-indian-face">http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/the-indian-face</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/indian_face_e9_for_james_mchaffie-68205">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/indian_face_e9_for_james_mchaffie-68205</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CoMouAtN-GE/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CoMouAtN-GE/</a></p>
After
<blockquote> <p>Looking down the crux headwall to the resting foothold I’m glad I never tried it from the deck as much as <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead">Redhead</a> would think me someone of low libido. I’ve never been on a climb with so many ‘almost holds’ for both hands and feet where it ‘s easy to get it wrong and what could be a 5c move could become a 6b move. […] I found 1 ok RP but if not placed perfectly it would pull through and it was hard to judge if it would take a fall. 3 other rp1s near it weren’t that inspiring either. I checked the moves and gear lower down and was a slightly appalled. The filed down rock 6 mentioned in the old guide is not there which is why I didn’t find it in 2000, where I presume it went a quarter in, offset 5 or sideways rp5 may take some bodyweight. 3 meter beyond a 3rd in sideways rock 7 again possibly takes some bodyweight. These 2 bits are your pro until the ‘gear’ nest at ¾ height, I can only think the gear has changed over the years for redhead to survive a fall down the groove or else the ‘Gods’ were smiling on him that day. (1)</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/the-indian-face">http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/the-indian-face</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/indian_face_e9_for_james_mchaffie-68205">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/indian_face_e9_for_james_mchaffie-68205</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CoMouAtN-GE/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CoMouAtN-GE/</a></p>
10732 2nd October 2025 15:52:20 UTC TdG ascent James McHaffie's ascent of Indian Face notes
Before
>Looking down the crux headwall to the resting foothold I’m glad I never tried it from the deck as much as Redhead would think me someone of low libido. I’ve never been on a climb with so many ‘almost holds’ for both hands and feet where it ‘s easy to get it wrong and what could be a 5c move could become a 6b move. […] I found 1 ok RP but if not placed perfectly it would pull through and it was hard to judge if it would take a fall. 3 other rp1s near it weren’t that inspiring either. I checked the moves and gear lower down and was a slightly appalled. The filed down rock 6 mentioned in the old guide is not there which is why I didn’t find it in 2000, where I presume it went a quarter in, offset 5 or sideways rp5 may take some bodyweight. 3 meter beyond a 3rd in sideways rock 7 again possibly takes some bodyweight. These 2 bits are your pro until the ‘gear’ nest at ¾ height, I can only think the gear has changed over the years for [redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) to survive a fall down the groove or else the ‘Gods’ were smiling on him that day. (1) ### References [1] [http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/the-indian-face](http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/the-indian-face) [2] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/indian_face_e9_for_james_mchaffie-68205](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/indian_face_e9_for_james_mchaffie-68205) [3] [https://www.instagram.com/p/CoMouAtN-GE/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CoMouAtN-GE/)
After
>Looking down the crux headwall to the resting foothold I’m glad I never tried it from the deck as much as [Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) would think me someone of low libido. I’ve never been on a climb with so many ‘almost holds’ for both hands and feet where it ‘s easy to get it wrong and what could be a 5c move could become a 6b move. […] I found 1 ok RP but if not placed perfectly it would pull through and it was hard to judge if it would take a fall. 3 other rp1s near it weren’t that inspiring either. I checked the moves and gear lower down and was a slightly appalled. The filed down rock 6 mentioned in the old guide is not there which is why I didn’t find it in 2000, where I presume it went a quarter in, offset 5 or sideways rp5 may take some bodyweight. 3 meter beyond a 3rd in sideways rock 7 again possibly takes some bodyweight. These 2 bits are your pro until the ‘gear’ nest at ¾ height, I can only think the gear has changed over the years for redhead to survive a fall down the groove or else the ‘Gods’ were smiling on him that day. (1) ### References [1] [http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/the-indian-face](http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/the-indian-face) [2] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/indian_face_e9_for_james_mchaffie-68205](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/indian_face_e9_for_james_mchaffie-68205) [3] [https://www.instagram.com/p/CoMouAtN-GE/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CoMouAtN-GE/)
Diff
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@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@

->Looking down the crux headwall to the resting foothold I’m glad I never tried it from the deck as much as Redhead would think me someone of low libido. I’ve never been on a climb with so many ‘almost holds’ for both hands and feet where it ‘s easy to get it wrong and what could be a 5c move could become a 6b move. […] I found 1 ok RP but if not placed perfectly it would pull through and it was hard to judge if it would take a fall. 3 other rp1s near it weren’t that inspiring either. I checked the moves and gear lower down and was a slightly appalled. The filed down rock 6 mentioned in the old guide is not there which is why I didn’t find it in 2000, where I presume it went a quarter in, offset 5 or sideways rp5 may take some bodyweight. 3 meter beyond a 3rd in sideways rock 7 again possibly takes some bodyweight. These 2 bits are your pro until the ‘gear’ nest at ¾ height, I can only think the gear has changed over the years for [redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) to survive a fall down the groove or else the ‘Gods’ were smiling on him that day. (1)
+>Looking down the crux headwall to the resting foothold I’m glad I never tried it from the deck as much as [Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) would think me someone of low libido. I’ve never been on a climb with so many ‘almost holds’ for both hands and feet where it ‘s easy to get it wrong and what could be a 5c move could become a 6b move. […] I found 1 ok RP but if not placed perfectly it would pull through and it was hard to judge if it would take a fall. 3 other rp1s near it weren’t that inspiring either. I checked the moves and gear lower down and was a slightly appalled. The filed down rock 6 mentioned in the old guide is not there which is why I didn’t find it in 2000, where I presume it went a quarter in, offset 5 or sideways rp5 may take some bodyweight. 3 meter beyond a 3rd in sideways rock 7 again possibly takes some bodyweight. These 2 bits are your pro until the ‘gear’ nest at ¾ height, I can only think the gear has changed over the years for redhead to survive a fall down the groove or else the ‘Gods’ were smiling on him that day. (1)

### References

10733 2nd October 2025 15:51:44 UTC TdG media https://www.instagram.com/p/CoMouAtN-GE/ missing_right_to_reproduce
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10734 2nd October 2025 15:51:44 UTC TdG media https://www.instagram.com/p/CoMouAtN-GE/ embed_code
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10735 2nd October 2025 15:51:44 UTC TdG media https://www.instagram.com/p/CoMouAtN-GE/ url
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10736 2nd October 2025 15:51:43 UTC TdG ascent James McHaffie's ascent of Indian Face notes_pretty
Before
<h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/the-indian-face">http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/the-indian-face</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/indian_face_e9_for_james_mchaffie-68205">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/indian_face_e9_for_james_mchaffie-68205</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CoMouAtN-GE/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CoMouAtN-GE/</a></p>
After
<blockquote> <p>Looking down the crux headwall to the resting foothold I’m glad I never tried it from the deck as much as Redhead would think me someone of low libido. I’ve never been on a climb with so many ‘almost holds’ for both hands and feet where it ‘s easy to get it wrong and what could be a 5c move could become a 6b move. […] I found 1 ok RP but if not placed perfectly it would pull through and it was hard to judge if it would take a fall. 3 other rp1s near it weren’t that inspiring either. I checked the moves and gear lower down and was a slightly appalled. The filed down rock 6 mentioned in the old guide is not there which is why I didn’t find it in 2000, where I presume it went a quarter in, offset 5 or sideways rp5 may take some bodyweight. 3 meter beyond a 3rd in sideways rock 7 again possibly takes some bodyweight. These 2 bits are your pro until the ‘gear’ nest at ¾ height, I can only think the gear has changed over the years for <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead">redhead</a> to survive a fall down the groove or else the ‘Gods’ were smiling on him that day. (1)</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/the-indian-face">http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/the-indian-face</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/indian_face_e9_for_james_mchaffie-68205">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/indian_face_e9_for_james_mchaffie-68205</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CoMouAtN-GE/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CoMouAtN-GE/</a></p>
10737 2nd October 2025 15:51:43 UTC TdG ascent James McHaffie's ascent of Indian Face notes
Before
### References [1] [http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/the-indian-face](http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/the-indian-face) [2] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/indian_face_e9_for_james_mchaffie-68205](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/indian_face_e9_for_james_mchaffie-68205) [3] [https://www.instagram.com/p/CoMouAtN-GE/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CoMouAtN-GE/)
After
>Looking down the crux headwall to the resting foothold I’m glad I never tried it from the deck as much as Redhead would think me someone of low libido. I’ve never been on a climb with so many ‘almost holds’ for both hands and feet where it ‘s easy to get it wrong and what could be a 5c move could become a 6b move. […] I found 1 ok RP but if not placed perfectly it would pull through and it was hard to judge if it would take a fall. 3 other rp1s near it weren’t that inspiring either. I checked the moves and gear lower down and was a slightly appalled. The filed down rock 6 mentioned in the old guide is not there which is why I didn’t find it in 2000, where I presume it went a quarter in, offset 5 or sideways rp5 may take some bodyweight. 3 meter beyond a 3rd in sideways rock 7 again possibly takes some bodyweight. These 2 bits are your pro until the ‘gear’ nest at ¾ height, I can only think the gear has changed over the years for [redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) to survive a fall down the groove or else the ‘Gods’ were smiling on him that day. (1) ### References [1] [http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/the-indian-face](http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/the-indian-face) [2] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/indian_face_e9_for_james_mchaffie-68205](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/indian_face_e9_for_james_mchaffie-68205) [3] [https://www.instagram.com/p/CoMouAtN-GE/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CoMouAtN-GE/)
Diff
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+++ after

@@ -1,3 +1,5 @@

+>Looking down the crux headwall to the resting foothold I’m glad I never tried it from the deck as much as Redhead would think me someone of low libido. I’ve never been on a climb with so many ‘almost holds’ for both hands and feet where it ‘s easy to get it wrong and what could be a 5c move could become a 6b move. […] I found 1 ok RP but if not placed perfectly it would pull through and it was hard to judge if it would take a fall. 3 other rp1s near it weren’t that inspiring either. I checked the moves and gear lower down and was a slightly appalled. The filed down rock 6 mentioned in the old guide is not there which is why I didn’t find it in 2000, where I presume it went a quarter in, offset 5 or sideways rp5 may take some bodyweight. 3 meter beyond a 3rd in sideways rock 7 again possibly takes some bodyweight. These 2 bits are your pro until the ‘gear’ nest at ¾ height, I can only think the gear has changed over the years for [redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) to survive a fall down the groove or else the ‘Gods’ were smiling on him that day. (1)
+
### References

[1] [http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/the-indian-face](http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/the-indian-face)
10738 2nd October 2025 14:36:35 UTC TdG ascent John Redhead's ascent of Indian Face notes_pretty
Before
<p>John put in a solid ground up effort before taking a big fall. He then put in a bolt at his high point and named it <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>.</p> <p>John pulled a flake off the route after <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes">Johnny Dawes</a> had made the first ascent, he then painted a piece on the rock scar. This angered Johnny who then scraped the painting off.</p>
After
<p>John put in a solid effort before taking a big fall. He then put in a bolt at his high point and named it <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>.</p> <p>John pulled a flake off the route after <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes">Johnny Dawes</a> had made the first ascent, he then painted a piece on the rock scar. This angered Johnny who then scraped the painting off.</p>
10739 2nd October 2025 14:36:35 UTC TdG ascent John Redhead's ascent of Indian Face notes
Before
John put in a solid ground up effort before taking a big fall. He then put in a bolt at his high point and named it [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). John pulled a flake off the route after [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) had made the first ascent, he then painted a piece on the rock scar. This angered Johnny who then scraped the painting off.
After
John put in a solid effort before taking a big fall. He then put in a bolt at his high point and named it [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). John pulled a flake off the route after [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) had made the first ascent, he then painted a piece on the rock scar. This angered Johnny who then scraped the painting off.
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-John put in a solid ground up effort before taking a big fall. He then put in a bolt at his high point and named it [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation).
+John put in a solid effort before taking a big fall. He then put in a bolt at his high point and named it [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation).

John pulled a flake off the route after [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) had made the first ascent, he then painted a piece on the rock scar. This angered Johnny who then scraped the painting off.
10740 2nd October 2025 12:12:20 UTC TdG climb Manic Strain Chipped
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