| Name | Type | # Changes | Last Updated | First Updated | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Gabe Regan's ascent of Velvet Silence | ascent | 28 | 20th October 2025 | 13th October 2025 |
| 2 | Neil Foster's ascent of Ulysses' Bow | ascent | 28 | 22nd September 2025 | 29th August 2025 |
| 3 | https://www.instagram.com/p/DNIgOzIs8zE/ | media | 27 | 11th August 2025 | 11th August 2025 |
| 4 | https://www.instagram.com/p/0aeI3lSEpz/ | media | 24 | 11th August 2025 | 11th August 2025 |
| 5 | https://www.instagram.com/p/0LNWV0yEng/ | media | 24 | 11th August 2025 | 11th August 2025 |
| 6 | https://www.instagram.com/p/BL9H0OSg8Fc/ | media | 24 | 11th August 2025 | 11th August 2025 |
| 7 | https://www.instagram.com/p/gS6wGZSEpx/ | media | 24 | 11th August 2025 | 11th August 2025 |
| 8 | https://www.instagram.com/p/nXtEdRSEmQ/ | media | 24 | 11th August 2025 | 11th August 2025 |
| 9 | https://www.instagram.com/p/ux4XICSEsv/ | media | 24 | 11th August 2025 | 11th August 2025 |
| Date | Time | User | Type | Name | Attribute | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 10701 | 3rd October 2025 | 10:14:51 UTC | TdG | ascent | Jerry Moffatt's ascent of Ulysses' Bow | notes | |
|
Before
Solo after top rope practice.
### References
[1] [https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1557591667640336](https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1557591667640336)
After
Solo after top rope practice.
>Certainly Ulysses was very dangerous. I mean, it was really dangerous. If you think, when I went there, there was nobody on the crag. We got the bus to Redmires and walked, so it was an hour's walk, nobody on the crag, no safety, nothing, no bouldering mats, no phones. I mean, if anything had happened, I would have been absolutely screwed. I only top roped it 10 times over two days, and then top roped it once and did it. I mean, it's ridiculous. I mean, now you top rope it till you're blue in the face. Till you have it totally wired. I mean, I top roped it 10 times and fell off it twice. I mean, it's crazy. (2)
### References
[1] [https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1557591667640336](https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1557591667640336)
[2] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000554413296&r=3285](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000554413296&r=3285)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 10702 | 3rd October 2025 | 09:27:16 UTC | TdG | ascent | Peter Croft's ascent of The Phoenix | ascent_dt_end | |
|
Before
None
After
1990-01-01
|
|||||||
| 10703 | 3rd October 2025 | 09:27:16 UTC | TdG | ascent | Peter Croft's ascent of The Phoenix | ascent_dt_start | |
|
Before
None
After
1980-01-01
|
|||||||
| 10704 | 3rd October 2025 | 09:27:16 UTC | TdG | ascent | Peter Croft's ascent of The Phoenix | ascent_type_id | |
|
Before
None
After
1
|
|||||||
| 10705 | 3rd October 2025 | 09:27:16 UTC | TdG | ascent | Peter Croft's ascent of The Phoenix | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
None
After
<p>First onsight ascent</p>
|
|||||||
| 10706 | 3rd October 2025 | 09:27:16 UTC | TdG | ascent | Peter Croft's ascent of The Phoenix | notes | |
|
Before
None
After
First onsight ascent
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 10707 | 3rd October 2025 | 09:27:16 UTC | TdG | ascent | Peter Croft's ascent of The Phoenix | ascent_style_id | |
|
Before
None
After
3
|
|||||||
| 10708 | 3rd October 2025 | 09:27:16 UTC | TdG | ascent | Peter Croft's ascent of The Phoenix | climb_id | |
|
Before
None
After
523
|
|||||||
| 10709 | 3rd October 2025 | 09:27:16 UTC | TdG | ascent | Peter Croft's ascent of The Phoenix | climber_id | |
|
Before
None
After
825
|
|||||||
| 10710 | 3rd October 2025 | 08:40:05 UTC | TdG | ascent | Nick Dixon's ascent of Face Mecca | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<blockquote>
<p>I'd practiced the crux on absel many times, and after leaving the belay with just one krab on my belt, it flowed as in a dream until I was on the upper wall after committing through a 6b sequence (15ft above the poor lower-only RURPs and 70ft above the belay). I found moves to finish that I hadn't practiced; why?, why? In desperation, now fully here and awake, I slapped and groped with a pylon's span of rope between me and a grinning Darril [belayer]. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 187. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.</p>
After
<blockquote>
<p>I'd practiced the crux on abseil many times, and after leaving the belay with just one krab on my belt, it flowed as in a dream until I was on the upper wall after committing through a 6b sequence (15ft above the poor lower-only RURPs and 70ft above the belay). I found moves to finish that I hadn't practiced; why?, why? In desperation, now fully here and awake, I slapped and groped with a pylon's span of rope between me and a grinning Darril [belayer]. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 187. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.</p>
|
|||||||
| 10711 | 3rd October 2025 | 08:40:05 UTC | TdG | ascent | Nick Dixon's ascent of Face Mecca | notes | |
|
Before
> I'd practiced the crux on absel many times, and after leaving the belay with just one krab on my belt, it flowed as in a dream until I was on the upper wall after committing through a 6b sequence (15ft above the poor lower-only RURPs and 70ft above the belay). I found moves to finish that I hadn't practiced; why?, why? In desperation, now fully here and awake, I slapped and groped with a pylon's span of rope between me and a grinning Darril [belayer]. [1]
### References
[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 187. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.
After
> I'd practiced the crux on abseil many times, and after leaving the belay with just one krab on my belt, it flowed as in a dream until I was on the upper wall after committing through a 6b sequence (15ft above the poor lower-only RURPs and 70ft above the belay). I found moves to finish that I hadn't practiced; why?, why? In desperation, now fully here and awake, I slapped and groped with a pylon's span of rope between me and a grinning Darril [belayer]. [1]
### References
[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 187. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 10712 | 3rd October 2025 | 08:38:25 UTC | TdG | climb | Master's Wall | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle">Spreadeagle</a>. The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face">Indian Face</a>. </p>
<p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>However, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">James McHaffie</a>, based on photographs and Jerry's account, Caff believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p>
<p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>
After
<p>Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle">Spreadeagle</a>. The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face">Indian Face</a>. </p>
<p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p>
<p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>
|
|||||||
| 10713 | 3rd October 2025 | 08:38:25 UTC | TdG | climb | Master's Wall | notes | |
|
Before
Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face).
[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996.
[James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:
> I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. [1]
There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.
[Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook:
> The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)
However, [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie), based on photographs and Jerry's account, Caff believes Jerry took a high traverse line:
>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)
### References
[1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock)
[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon
After
Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face).
[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996.
[James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:
> I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)
There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.
[Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook:
> The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)
However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line:
>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)
### References
[1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock)
[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 10714 | 3rd October 2025 | 08:32:30 UTC | TdG | ascent | Jerry Moffatt's ascent of Master's Wall | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<blockquote>
<p>In that photo [see [2]] I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. </p>
<p>...</p>
<p>You get to some footholds where you can stand and get some RPs behind these little flakes...all I was thinking was "I need to get rescued, I need to get rescued". The I got there, got the wires in, settled down...I just told myself "I never want to climb that bottom bit again, I'm here now and I've got these wires in". The crux was above here but I'd sussed those moves on abseil...so I stood there for a while and thought "let's just go for it".</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3446194975446653">https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3446194975446653</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116371949819691">https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116371949819691</a></p>
<p>[3] Interview with <a href="/climber/702/niall-grimes">Niall Grimes</a> on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt">http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt</a></p>
After
<p>Jerry had practiced what he thought would be the crux moves on abseil. However, the dangerous lower section was climbed without pre-practice and did not go to plan:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>In that photo [see [2]] I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. </p>
<p>...</p>
<p>You get to some footholds where you can stand and get some RPs behind these little flakes...all I was thinking was "I need to get rescued, I need to get rescued". The I got there, got the wires in, settled down...I just told myself "I never want to climb that bottom bit again, I'm here now and I've got these wires in". The crux was above here but I'd sussed those moves on abseil...so I stood there for a while and thought "let's just go for it".</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Jerry prepared for the route by soloing <a href="/climb/1762/great-wall">Great Wall</a>, <a href="/climb/5856/curving-arete">Curving Arete</a> and <a href="/climb/1757/the-boldest">The Boldest</a> – some of these were onsight.</p>
<p>The day after Master's Wall, he soloed <a href="/climb/530/right-wall">Right Wall</a> and six other Extremes on Dinas Cromlech.</p>
<p>He later spoke about having potential post-traumatic stress symptoms:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>And still I think about those things. It's like a post-traumatic thing, and you still think about it and stuff. […] I'll be dreaming, and I'll be just like on the thing, and then I'll wake up and think, and then I'll be going, oh God, that was so lucky, or I don't know. Not really great feelings, just feelings of like, what the hell was I doing? And I was so bloody lucky, so lucky, so lucky. And you think, what if I'd have broken that hold, and you had pictures of yourself flying through the air and stuff.(3)</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3446194975446653">https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3446194975446653</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116371949819691">https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116371949819691</a></p>
<p>[3] Interview with <a href="/climber/702/niall-grimes">Niall Grimes</a> on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt">http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 10715 | 3rd October 2025 | 08:32:30 UTC | TdG | ascent | Jerry Moffatt's ascent of Master's Wall | notes | |
|
Before
> In that photo [see [2]] I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified.
> ...
> You get to some footholds where you can stand and get some RPs behind these little flakes...all I was thinking was "I need to get rescued, I need to get rescued". The I got there, got the wires in, settled down...I just told myself "I never want to climb that bottom bit again, I'm here now and I've got these wires in". The crux was above here but I'd sussed those moves on abseil...so I stood there for a while and thought "let's just go for it".
### References
[1] [https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3446194975446653](https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3446194975446653)
[2] [https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116371949819691](https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116371949819691)
[3] Interview with [Niall Grimes](/climber/702/niall-grimes) on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt)
After
Jerry had practiced what he thought would be the crux moves on abseil. However, the dangerous lower section was climbed without pre-practice and did not go to plan:
> In that photo [see [2]] I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified.
> ...
> You get to some footholds where you can stand and get some RPs behind these little flakes...all I was thinking was "I need to get rescued, I need to get rescued". The I got there, got the wires in, settled down...I just told myself "I never want to climb that bottom bit again, I'm here now and I've got these wires in". The crux was above here but I'd sussed those moves on abseil...so I stood there for a while and thought "let's just go for it".
Jerry prepared for the route by soloing [Great Wall](/climb/1762/great-wall), [Curving Arete](/climb/5856/curving-arete) and [The Boldest](/climb/1757/the-boldest) – some of these were onsight.
The day after Master's Wall, he soloed [Right Wall](/climb/530/right-wall) and six other Extremes on Dinas Cromlech.
He later spoke about having potential post-traumatic stress symptoms:
>And still I think about those things. It's like a post-traumatic thing, and you still think about it and stuff. […] I'll be dreaming, and I'll be just like on the thing, and then I'll wake up and think, and then I'll be going, oh God, that was so lucky, or I don't know. Not really great feelings, just feelings of like, what the hell was I doing? And I was so bloody lucky, so lucky, so lucky. And you think, what if I'd have broken that hold, and you had pictures of yourself flying through the air and stuff.(3)
### References
[1] [https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3446194975446653](https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3446194975446653)
[2] [https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116371949819691](https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116371949819691)
[3] Interview with [Niall Grimes](/climber/702/niall-grimes) on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 10716 | 3rd October 2025 | 08:22:06 UTC | TdG | climb | Master's Wall | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle">Spreadeagle</a>. The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face">Indian Face</a>. </p>
<p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [<a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt">Jerry</a>] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>However, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">James McHaffie</a>, based on photographs and Jerry's account, Caff believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p>
<p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>
After
<p>Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle">Spreadeagle</a>. The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face">Indian Face</a>. </p>
<p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>However, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">James McHaffie</a>, based on photographs and Jerry's account, Caff believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p>
<p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>
|
|||||||
| 10717 | 3rd October 2025 | 08:22:06 UTC | TdG | climb | Master's Wall | notes | |
|
Before
Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face).
[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996.
[James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:
> I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [[Jerry](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)
There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.
[Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook:
> The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)
However, [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie), based on photographs and Jerry's account, Caff believes Jerry took a high traverse line:
>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)
### References
[1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock)
[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon
After
Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face).
[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996.
[James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:
> I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)
There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.
[Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook:
> The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)
However, [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie), based on photographs and Jerry's account, Caff believes Jerry took a high traverse line:
>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)
### References
[1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock)
[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 10718 | 3rd October 2025 | 08:21:17 UTC | TdG | climb | Master's Wall | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle">Spreadeagle</a>. The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face">Indian Face</a>. </p>
<p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996</p>
<p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [<a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt">Jerry</a>] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>However, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">James McHaffie</a>, based on photographs and Jerry's account, Caff believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p>
<p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>
After
<p>Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle">Spreadeagle</a>. The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face">Indian Face</a>. </p>
<p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [<a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt">Jerry</a>] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>However, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">James McHaffie</a>, based on photographs and Jerry's account, Caff believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p>
<p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>
|
|||||||
| 10719 | 3rd October 2025 | 08:21:17 UTC | TdG | climb | Master's Wall | notes | |
|
Before
Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face).
[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996
[James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:
> I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [[Jerry](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)
There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.
[Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook:
> The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)
However, [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie), based on photographs and Jerry's account, Caff believes Jerry took a high traverse line:
>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)
### References
[1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock)
[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon
After
Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face).
[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996.
[James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:
> I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [[Jerry](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)
There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.
[Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook:
> The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)
However, [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie), based on photographs and Jerry's account, Caff believes Jerry took a high traverse line:
>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)
### References
[1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock)
[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 10720 | 3rd October 2025 | 08:21:06 UTC | TdG | climb | Master's Wall | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle">Spreadeagle</a>. The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes">Johnny Dawes</a>: Indian Face.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996</p>
<p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [<a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt">Jerry</a>] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>However, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">James McHaffie</a>, based on photographs and Jerry's account, Caff believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p>
<p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>
After
<p>Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle">Spreadeagle</a>. The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face">Indian Face</a>. </p>
<p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996</p>
<p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [<a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt">Jerry</a>] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>However, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">James McHaffie</a>, based on photographs and Jerry's account, Caff believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p>
<p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>
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