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Contributions by Country

Country Contributions Between Climbers Crags Summits Climbs Ascents
1 United Kingdom 53414 14th November 2023 – 9th October 2026 1425 704 0 3080 4907
2 USA 24638 14th November 2023 – 9th October 2026 796 181 2 848 2362
3 France 12164 14th November 2023 – 6th October 2026 264 126 1 551 1034
4 Switzerland 9478 14th November 2023 – 7th October 2026 77 43 1 308 1109
5 Spain 8368 15th November 2023 – 5th October 2026 89 74 0 444 897
6 Italy 4634 16th November 2023 – 5th October 2026 118 59 0 184 358
7 South Africa 3656 16th November 2023 – 28th September 2026 12 35 0 128 394
8 Canada 3160 16th November 2023 – 2nd October 2026 63 21 3 108 270
9 Germany 3117 16th November 2023 – 7th October 2026 117 48 0 103 224
10 Austria 2544 16th November 2023 – 30th September 2026 70 26 0 105 224

Recent Contributions

Date Time User Type Name Attribute
10961 18th August 2026 06:47:40 UTC remus climb Gambit Climb crag_id
Before
None
After
696
10962 18th August 2026 06:47:40 UTC remus climb Gambit Climb climb_type_name
Before
None
After
Trad climb
10963 18th August 2026 06:47:40 UTC remus climb Gambit Climb grade
Before
None
After
S
10964 18th August 2026 06:47:40 UTC remus climb Gambit Climb ukc_url
Before
None
After
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/clogwyn_y_ddysgl-696/gambit_climb-29147
10965 18th August 2026 06:47:40 UTC remus climb Gambit Climb climb_type
Before
None
After
3
10966 18th August 2026 06:47:40 UTC remus climb Gambit Climb grade_id
Before
None
After
50
10967 18th August 2026 06:47:40 UTC remus climb Gambit Climb crag_location_breadcrumb_pretty
Before
None
After
<a href="/crags/location/United Kingdom" class="text-muted">United Kingdom</a> / <a href="/crags/location/United Kingdom/Wales" class="text-muted">Wales</a> / <a href="/crags/location/United Kingdom/Wales/Caernarfon" class="text-muted">Caernarfon</a>
10968 18th August 2026 06:47:40 UTC remus climb Gambit Climb climb_name
Before
None
After
Gambit Climb
10969 18th August 2026 06:47:40 UTC remus climb Gambit Climb _default_ascent_type_id
Before
None
After
1
10970 18th August 2026 06:45:41 UTC remus climb Indian Face notes
Before
Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > Standard: E9; Exceptionally Severe (Excessively so). Rubbers > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre. The crux is as fearsome a piece of climbing as has yet been seen in Snowdonia; harder than the Horned Crag, or perhaps even the Gambit Climb of Crib y Ddysgl (though this may be to overstate). > A preliminary inspection on the rope is certainly advisable. Where the crux (of an obduracy to satisfy even the most advanced of ambitions) to be even so little as two feet longer, it is a matter much to be doubted whether even so much as a single man possessed of the necessary capacities of temperament, physique and moral character could be found in these islands capable of fulfilling the requirements of such an exacting ascent. Skill and confidence — and both in abundance — are required, though a greater premium may be placed upon fingers possessed of some of the characteristics of tempered steel. > The climbing is on holds unremittingly exiguous in nature — their paucity proving such a drain upon mental faculties as to daunt the heart of a would-be leader, even though he may be the stoutest of fellows. > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigial of chockstones could hope to gain lodgment. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent — nay, inevitable, the ground below which would receive his fall being by no means accommodating to such a contingency. The second's faculties should comprehend any eventuality, no matter how dire, which may befall, though medical qualification is supernumary, spiritual rather than temporal care being of more direct assistance in the aftermath of an abrupt descent. Scatological preoccupations are most likely amongst the preliminaries to an ascent, though it is questionable whether abstinence from carnal pleasure the preceding week would prove advantageous to a man of such moral fibre as would dare to contemplate so audacious an undertaking. > The party should most conveniently number two, the compet- ence of the leader should, as has previously been noted, be of an exceptionally high order, whilst that of the second should not lag far behind. > Rope: A full 150 feet of Alpine line will be found necessary for each member of the party, though more would add to the comfort, both mental and spiritual. > ... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it. [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): > The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2] At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3] The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good. The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A relative flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023. [Rachel Pearce](/climber/543/rachel-pearce) made the first female ascent in 2026. ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c) [3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134) [4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429)
After
Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > Standard: E9; Exceptionally Severe (Excessively so). Rubbers. > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre. The crux is as fearsome a piece of climbing as has yet been seen in Snowdonia; harder than the Horned Crag, or perhaps even the Gambit Climb of Crib y Ddysgl (though this may be to overstate). > A preliminary inspection on the rope is certainly advisable. Where the crux (of an obduracy to satisfy even the most advanced of ambitions) to be even so little as two feet longer, it is a matter much to be doubted whether even so much as a single man possessed of the necessary capacities of temperament, physique and moral character could be found in these islands capable of fulfilling the requirements of such an exacting ascent. Skill and confidence — and both in abundance — are required, though a greater premium may be placed upon fingers possessed of some of the characteristics of tempered steel. > The climbing is on holds unremittingly exiguous in nature — their paucity proving such a drain upon mental faculties as to daunt the heart of a would-be leader, even though he may be the stoutest of fellows. > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigial of chockstones could hope to gain lodgment. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent — nay, inevitable, the ground below which would receive his fall being by no means accommodating to such a contingency. The second's faculties should comprehend any eventuality, no matter how dire, which may befall, though medical qualification is supernumary, spiritual rather than temporal care being of more direct assistance in the aftermath of an abrupt descent. Scatological preoccupations are most likely amongst the preliminaries to an ascent, though it is questionable whether abstinence from carnal pleasure the preceding week would prove advantageous to a man of such moral fibre as would dare to contemplate so audacious an undertaking. > The party should most conveniently number two, the compet- ence of the leader should, as has previously been noted, be of an exceptionally high order, whilst that of the second should not lag far behind. > Rope: A full 150 feet of Alpine line will be found necessary for each member of the party, though more would add to the comfort, both mental and spiritual. > ... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it. [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): > The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2] At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3] The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good. The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A relative flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023. [Rachel Pearce](/climber/543/rachel-pearce) made the first female ascent in 2026. ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c) [3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134) [4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429)
Diff
--- before

+++ after

@@ -4,7 +4,7 @@


Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:

-> Standard: E9; Exceptionally Severe (Excessively so). Rubbers
+> Standard: E9; Exceptionally Severe (Excessively so). Rubbers.

> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre. The crux is as fearsome a piece of climbing as has yet been seen in Snowdonia; harder than the Horned Crag, or perhaps even the
Gambit Climb of Crib y Ddysgl (though this may be to overstate).
10971 18th August 2026 06:45:41 UTC remus climb Indian Face notes_pretty
Before
<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p> <p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p> <p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>Standard: E9; Exceptionally Severe (Excessively so). Rubbers</p> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre. The crux is as fearsome a piece of climbing as has yet been seen in Snowdonia; harder than the Horned Crag, or perhaps even the Gambit Climb of Crib y Ddysgl (though this may be to overstate).</p> <p>A preliminary inspection on the rope is certainly advisable. Where the crux (of an obduracy to satisfy even the most advanced of ambitions) to be even so little as two feet longer, it is a matter much to be doubted whether even so much as a single man possessed of the necessary capacities of temperament, physique and moral character could be found in these islands capable of fulfilling the requirements of such an exacting ascent. Skill and confidence — and both in abundance — are required, though a greater premium may be placed upon fingers possessed of some of the characteristics of tempered steel.</p> <p>The climbing is on holds unremittingly exiguous in nature — their paucity proving such a drain upon mental faculties as to daunt the heart of a would-be leader, even though he may be the stoutest of fellows.</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigial of chockstones could hope to gain lodgment. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent — nay, inevitable, the ground below which would receive his fall being by no means accommodating to such a contingency. The second's faculties should comprehend any eventuality, no matter how dire, which may befall, though medical qualification is supernumary, spiritual rather than temporal care being of more direct assistance in the aftermath of an abrupt descent. Scatological preoccupations are most likely amongst the preliminaries to an ascent, though it is questionable whether abstinence from carnal pleasure the preceding week would prove advantageous to a man of such moral fibre as would dare to contemplate so audacious an undertaking.</p> <p>The party should most conveniently number two, the compet- ence of the leader should, as has previously been noted, be of an exceptionally high order, whilst that of the second should not lag far behind.</p> <p>Rope: A full 150 feet of Alpine line will be found necessary for each member of the party, though more would add to the comfort, both mental and spiritual.</p> <p>...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p> <p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p> </blockquote> <p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p> <p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a>, up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p> <p>The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A relative flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023. <a href="/climber/543/rachel-pearce" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rachel Pearce</a> made the first female ascent in 2026.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>.&nbsp;Clogwyn Du'r Arddu.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Climbers' Club,&nbsp;1989.</p> <p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p> <p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>
After
<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p> <p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p> <p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>Standard: E9; Exceptionally Severe (Excessively so). Rubbers.</p> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre. The crux is as fearsome a piece of climbing as has yet been seen in Snowdonia; harder than the Horned Crag, or perhaps even the Gambit Climb of Crib y Ddysgl (though this may be to overstate).</p> <p>A preliminary inspection on the rope is certainly advisable. Where the crux (of an obduracy to satisfy even the most advanced of ambitions) to be even so little as two feet longer, it is a matter much to be doubted whether even so much as a single man possessed of the necessary capacities of temperament, physique and moral character could be found in these islands capable of fulfilling the requirements of such an exacting ascent. Skill and confidence — and both in abundance — are required, though a greater premium may be placed upon fingers possessed of some of the characteristics of tempered steel.</p> <p>The climbing is on holds unremittingly exiguous in nature — their paucity proving such a drain upon mental faculties as to daunt the heart of a would-be leader, even though he may be the stoutest of fellows.</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigial of chockstones could hope to gain lodgment. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent — nay, inevitable, the ground below which would receive his fall being by no means accommodating to such a contingency. The second's faculties should comprehend any eventuality, no matter how dire, which may befall, though medical qualification is supernumary, spiritual rather than temporal care being of more direct assistance in the aftermath of an abrupt descent. Scatological preoccupations are most likely amongst the preliminaries to an ascent, though it is questionable whether abstinence from carnal pleasure the preceding week would prove advantageous to a man of such moral fibre as would dare to contemplate so audacious an undertaking.</p> <p>The party should most conveniently number two, the compet- ence of the leader should, as has previously been noted, be of an exceptionally high order, whilst that of the second should not lag far behind.</p> <p>Rope: A full 150 feet of Alpine line will be found necessary for each member of the party, though more would add to the comfort, both mental and spiritual.</p> <p>...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p> <p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p> </blockquote> <p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p> <p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a>, up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p> <p>The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A relative flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023. <a href="/climber/543/rachel-pearce" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rachel Pearce</a> made the first female ascent in 2026.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>.&nbsp;Clogwyn Du'r Arddu.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Climbers' Club,&nbsp;1989.</p> <p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p> <p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>
10972 18th August 2026 06:45:33 UTC remus climb Indian Face notes_pretty
Before
<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p> <p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p> <p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p> <p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p> </blockquote> <p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p> <p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a>, up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p> <p>The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A relative flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023. <a href="/climber/543/rachel-pearce" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rachel Pearce</a> made the first female ascent in 2026.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>.&nbsp;Clogwyn Du'r Arddu.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Climbers' Club,&nbsp;1989.</p> <p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p> <p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>
After
<p>Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. </p> <p>A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. <a href="/climber/173/neil-gresham" rel="noopener noreferrer">Neil Gresham</a> remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8.</p> <p>Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>Standard: E9; Exceptionally Severe (Excessively so). Rubbers</p> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream" rel="noopener noreferrer">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre. The crux is as fearsome a piece of climbing as has yet been seen in Snowdonia; harder than the Horned Crag, or perhaps even the Gambit Climb of Crib y Ddysgl (though this may be to overstate).</p> <p>A preliminary inspection on the rope is certainly advisable. Where the crux (of an obduracy to satisfy even the most advanced of ambitions) to be even so little as two feet longer, it is a matter much to be doubted whether even so much as a single man possessed of the necessary capacities of temperament, physique and moral character could be found in these islands capable of fulfilling the requirements of such an exacting ascent. Skill and confidence — and both in abundance — are required, though a greater premium may be placed upon fingers possessed of some of the characteristics of tempered steel.</p> <p>The climbing is on holds unremittingly exiguous in nature — their paucity proving such a drain upon mental faculties as to daunt the heart of a would-be leader, even though he may be the stoutest of fellows.</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigial of chockstones could hope to gain lodgment. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent — nay, inevitable, the ground below which would receive his fall being by no means accommodating to such a contingency. The second's faculties should comprehend any eventuality, no matter how dire, which may befall, though medical qualification is supernumary, spiritual rather than temporal care being of more direct assistance in the aftermath of an abrupt descent. Scatological preoccupations are most likely amongst the preliminaries to an ascent, though it is questionable whether abstinence from carnal pleasure the preceding week would prove advantageous to a man of such moral fibre as would dare to contemplate so audacious an undertaking.</p> <p>The party should most conveniently number two, the compet- ence of the leader should, as has previously been noted, be of an exceptionally high order, whilst that of the second should not lag far behind.</p> <p>Rope: A full 150 feet of Alpine line will be found necessary for each member of the party, though more would add to the comfort, both mental and spiritual.</p> <p>...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a> and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it.</p> <p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p> </blockquote> <p>At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a> in 1990. [3]</p> <p>The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>. In 1996 following <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a>'s onsight ascent of <a href="/climb/713/master's-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Master's Wall</a>, up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a>'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good.</p> <p>The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A relative flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. <a href="/climber/1604/morus-sanderson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Morus Sanderson</a> unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023. <a href="/climber/543/rachel-pearce" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rachel Pearce</a> made the first female ascent in 2026.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Williams</a>.&nbsp;Clogwyn Du'r Arddu.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Climbers' Club,&nbsp;1989.</p> <p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c" rel="noopener noreferrer">E9 6c</a></p> <p>[3] <em>Mountain</em> Issue 134 (1990), page 14 <a href="/library/11317/mountain-134" rel="noopener noreferrer">/library/11317/mountain-134</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429</a></p>
10973 18th August 2026 06:45:33 UTC remus climb Indian Face notes
Before
Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre... > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it. [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): > The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2] At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3] The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good. The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A relative flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023. [Rachel Pearce](/climber/543/rachel-pearce) made the first female ascent in 2026. ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c) [3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134) [4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429)
After
Perhaps the most celebrated and revered route in the UK, [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes)' ascent in 1986 gave the country its first E9. Although only around 7b/+ to top rope, the route is exceptionally bold, running it out way above bodyweight-only RPs in suspect placements. A fall from the precarious crux at around 40m would likely end on the ground. A narrow resting foothold before the crux sequence allows the leader a moment's respite and an opportunity to contemplate their fate. [Neil Gresham](/climber/173/neil-gresham) remarked that without this 'ledge' the route might only be E8. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > Standard: E9; Exceptionally Severe (Excessively so). Rubbers > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre. The crux is as fearsome a piece of climbing as has yet been seen in Snowdonia; harder than the Horned Crag, or perhaps even the Gambit Climb of Crib y Ddysgl (though this may be to overstate). > A preliminary inspection on the rope is certainly advisable. Where the crux (of an obduracy to satisfy even the most advanced of ambitions) to be even so little as two feet longer, it is a matter much to be doubted whether even so much as a single man possessed of the necessary capacities of temperament, physique and moral character could be found in these islands capable of fulfilling the requirements of such an exacting ascent. Skill and confidence — and both in abundance — are required, though a greater premium may be placed upon fingers possessed of some of the characteristics of tempered steel. > The climbing is on holds unremittingly exiguous in nature — their paucity proving such a drain upon mental faculties as to daunt the heart of a would-be leader, even though he may be the stoutest of fellows. > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigial of chockstones could hope to gain lodgment. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent — nay, inevitable, the ground below which would receive his fall being by no means accommodating to such a contingency. The second's faculties should comprehend any eventuality, no matter how dire, which may befall, though medical qualification is supernumary, spiritual rather than temporal care being of more direct assistance in the aftermath of an abrupt descent. Scatological preoccupations are most likely amongst the preliminaries to an ascent, though it is questionable whether abstinence from carnal pleasure the preceding week would prove advantageous to a man of such moral fibre as would dare to contemplate so audacious an undertaking. > The party should most conveniently number two, the compet- ence of the leader should, as has previously been noted, be of an exceptionally high order, whilst that of the second should not lag far behind. > Rope: A full 150 feet of Alpine line will be found necessary for each member of the party, though more would add to the comfort, both mental and spiritual. > ... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed and became a further source of prime beef between the pair. In 1980, John had made some extraordinary efforts to climb the line, resulting in [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) and he took umbrage with Dawes top-roping the line of Indian Face before leading it. [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): > The real shame is that John [Redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2] At some point a mystery chipped nut placement appeared which would have made the route substantially safer. This was filled in with epoxy resin by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes) in 1990. [3] The route was repeated in 1994 by Neil Gresham and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon). In 1996 following [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding)'s onsight ascent of [Master's Wall](/climb/713/master's-wall), up which the route starts, there was speculation about the possibility of an onsight of Indian Face. However, once Leo discovered Yosemite, Welsh death routes no longer seemed so appealing [4] and [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie)'s epic on Master's Wall in 2000 quenched the onsight dream, seemingly for good. The route was then neglected for some time, its aura growing. [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) backed off it in 2007, before returning better-prepared in 2010 to make a flawless headpoint. A relative flood of repeats in a similar style followed in the dry summer 2013, with McHaffie dispatching the route in a day. [Morus Sanderson](/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) unintentionally channeled some of the spirit of earlier adventures on the wall with a harrowing repeat on wet holds in 2023. [Rachel Pearce](/climber/543/rachel-pearce) made the first female ascent in 2026. ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c) [3] *Mountain* Issue 134 (1990), page 14 [/library/11317/mountain-134](/library/11317/mountain-134) [4] [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429](https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000637614429)
Diff
--- before

+++ after

@@ -4,9 +4,29 @@


Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows:

-> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...
+> Standard: E9; Exceptionally Severe (Excessively so). Rubbers

-> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...
+> It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre. The crux is as fearsome a piece of climbing as has yet been seen in Snowdonia; harder than the Horned Crag, or perhaps even the
+Gambit Climb of Crib y Ddysgl (though this may be to overstate).
+
+> A preliminary inspection on the rope is certainly advisable. Where the crux (of an obduracy to satisfy even the most advanced of ambitions) to be even so little as two feet longer, it is a matter much to be doubted whether even so much as a single man possessed of the necessary capacities of temperament, physique and moral character could be found in these islands capable of fulfilling the requirements of such an exacting ascent. Skill and confidence — and both in abundance — are required, though a greater premium may be placed upon fingers possessed of some of the characteristics of tempered steel.
+
+> The climbing is on holds unremittingly exiguous in nature — their
+paucity proving such a drain upon mental faculties as to daunt the heart of a would-be leader, even though he may be the stoutest of fellows.
+
+> Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigial of chockstones could hope to gain lodgment. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent — nay, inevitable, the ground below which would receive his fall being by no means accommodating to such a contingency. The second's faculties should comprehend any eventuality, no matter how dire, which may befall, though medical qualification is supernumary, spiritual rather than temporal care being of more direct assistance in the aftermath of an abrupt descent. Scatological preoccupations are
+most likely amongst the preliminaries to an ascent, though it is questionable whether abstinence from carnal pleasure the preceding week would prove advantageous to a man of such moral fibre as would dare to contemplate so audacious an undertaking.
+
+> The party should most conveniently number two, the compet-
+ence of the leader should, as has previously been noted, be of
+an exceptionally high order, whilst that of the second should not
+lag far behind.
+
+> Rope: A full 150 feet of Alpine line will be found necessary for
+each member of the party, though more would add to the
+comfort, both mental and spiritual.
+
+> ...

> The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]
10974 18th August 2026 06:35:24 UTC remus climb West Indian Face See Also
Before
None
After
601
10975 18th August 2026 06:35:17 UTC remus climb West Indian Face See Also
Before
None
After
1075
10976 18th August 2026 06:31:05 UTC remus library item Clogwyn Du'r Arddu notes_pretty
Before
<blockquote> <p>TO <a href="/climber/766/philip-jewel">PHIL JEWELL</a>, better known as 'Jim' — whose tragic death in 1987 robbed the climbing scene of one of its best loved sons.</p> <p>'Big Jim' was a great friend, and one of Cloggy's most fervent disciples.</p> </blockquote>
After
<blockquote> <p>TO <a href="/climber/766/philip-jewel" rel="noopener noreferrer">PHIL JEWELL</a>, better known as 'Jim' — whose tragic death in 1987 robbed the climbing scene of one of its best loved sons.</p> <p>'Big Jim' was a great friend, and one of Cloggy's most fervent disciples.</p> </blockquote>
10977 18th August 2026 06:31:05 UTC remus library item Clogwyn Du'r Arddu year
Before
1988
After
1989
10978 18th August 2026 06:08:15 UTC remus media https://www.instagram.com/reel/DcJfIBDqOCx/ missing_right_to_reproduce
Before
None
After
false
10979 18th August 2026 06:08:15 UTC remus media https://www.instagram.com/reel/DcJfIBDqOCx/ url
Before
None
After
https://www.instagram.com/reel/DcJfIBDqOCx/
10980 18th August 2026 06:08:15 UTC remus ascent Lor Sabourin's ascent of Greenspit ascent_type_id
Before
None
After
1

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