Examples of Chipped Climbs

In rock climbing chipping is the practice of artificially modifying a climb. In practice this can mean a lot of things, from a wobbly, existing hold being removed and then re-attached with glue to preserve the character of a climb to full-scale manufacture of routes by drilling holds in blank rock for large sections of the climb.

This is a list of some routes that have been chipped. These routes have been chipped in the sense they have had holds created.

Got any corrections? Send them to corrections@climbing-history.org

17 entries on the list.

Climb Grade Climb Type Notes
1 Le Carnage 7B+ Boulder problem The starting left hand-hold is manufactured
2 Rock Atrocity 7C Boulder problem The two pockets in the roof are drilled
3 The Keel 7C Boulder problem The pocket on the lip is manufactured
4 La Balance 7C+ Boulder problem The left hand starting pocket is enhanced
5 Seven 8B+ Boulder problem Holds on the low start have been modified
6 Manic Strain 8a Sport route holds manufactured by first ascensionist
7 Menopausal Discharge 8a+ Sport route holds manufactured by first ascensionist
8 La Rose et le Vampire 8b Sport route The hold which allows the rose move is manufactured
9 Hugh 9a Sport route A completely manufactured route
10 De L'Autre Côté du Ciel 9a Sport route Many pockets through the upper section of the route were manufactured to force the sequence
11 Sleeping Lion 9b Sport route The rock is relatively soft so several holds are reinforced with glue
12 La Dura Dura 9b+ Sport route Several holds are reinforced with glue
13 Cheat E3 Trad climb The holds that allow the upper section to be climbed are manufactured
14 Downhill Racer E4 Trad climb Holds enlarged by Livesey
15 Linden E6 Trad climb Two divots were drilled for skyhooks on the first ascent
16 The First and Last Wall E6 Trad climb Some cam slots are drilled to improve the placements
17 Red Rose E8 Trad climb Several pockets have been drilled.