Sleeping Lion | 9b Sport route at Siurana

First ascent.

This whole time I’ve been trying to stay in shape, which has been a huge challenge. I never wanted to let go of my climbing goals. But as the years go by, you start to wonder, are things going to coalesce? Am I just saying that to myself, that I’m still in shape and ready?

...

In the lifespan of a climber, it’s really good to do other things. It complements your climbing, and it gives you a different perspective, and then it makes you appreciate climbing in new ways. … The ultimate goal is to be able to climb 5.15 in life, not just on the rock. So I have this higher-arching goal of climbing at my limit while also being present with my kids, and being present as a husband, and creating these climbing gyms and this TV show. All those other things are way out of my comfort zone, but that’s where a lot of growth and the progression of ourselves comes from.[3]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31921.msg675237.html#msg675237

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgacMtKWDMM

[3] Interview with Climbing Magazine, March 2023 https://www.climbing.com/news/exclusive-interview-chris-sharma-makes-5-15c-fa-in-siurana/

[4] https://www.instagram.com/p/CqdPXoIosXj/

[5] https://www.8a.nu/news/a-sleeping-lion-no-more-interview-with-chris-sharma-and-a-look-back-at-his-greatest-ascents-t27s3

[6] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBG-8bFgopw

[7] https://watch.reelrocktour.com/videos/sleeping-lion

[8] https://www.redbull.com/gb-en/episodes/reel-rock-s9-e8

[9] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yX5hkFSM5JU

Second ascent. 8 sessions.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C1uQuUGtsgJ/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/C1w8uMKNeun/

[3] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/alex-megos-interview-siurana-sleeping-lion-second-ascent.html

[4] https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/alex-megos-hace-la-primera-repeticion-de-sleeping-lion-y-la-deja-en-9b/

[5] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O5wpse9w2eg

[6] https://www.climbing.com/news/alex-megos-sleeping-lion/

[7] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sV0d9N9lArE

Third ascent. Belayed by Gabriele Moroni.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C3zrnM0NzPn/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/C3403CxNSb1/

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/C37bunrtdY6/