Profilveggen

More

• Change Log
• Notes Log
• Threads

References

[1] https://www.neilgresham.com/climbing/first-ascents/traditional-climbing/scandinavia

After days of touring around the fjords near Stavanger, Leo Houlding, Adam Wainwright, Andy Cave, Trym Saeland and I were preparing to throw in the towel. We had hoped to get our teeth into some trad new routing but instead we spent a week being savaged by midges, soaked by torrential rain and wading around in waist-deep in bogs. However, the looming silhouette of Profile Wall, the huge, severely leaning crag on the skyline above the Jossingfjord was surely the answer to our prayers. On close inspection we found that the wall was laced with thin cracks and seams, most of which were old aid lines, and some which looked futuristic but free’able. Leo and I set to work on a line which turned out to be the steepest and one of the best trad climbs I’ve ever done. The final slab pitch should have been straightforward but it had a waterfall running down it and turned out to be the crux!

References

[1] https://www.neilgresham.com/climbing/first-ascents/traditional-climbing/scandinavia

When we got there our attention was immediately caught by a very impressive series of splitter cracks up the middle of the overhang. Even though it looked way too futuristic we were so motivated we decided to waste no time and check it out right away. In fact, it's the very first line we got on in Norway and we immediately found what we were looking for: a perfect crack project that would keep us busy for a while. We spent the rest of the trip trying it over and over again, learning how to solve each move, making really unique sequences of thin fingers locks, drop knees and rail slapping moves. After three weeks trying it and fighting against difficult weather conditions our fingers got completely trashed by the sharp cracks and we were forced to leave it, unfinished. [1]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/nicolas-favresse-frees-his-crack-project-in-norway.html

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4bydCNknFA

Seeing Christer pass the crux was a great relief and filled me with happiness, I knew that the project was in the bag. During this process our efforts had grown together and we experienced a unity that I’ve previously only experienced on bigger routes in the mountains. Our progression had followed hand in hand all the way and was fueled by our friendship. Christer passed the anchor and linked in to a second pitch getting the most out of his run. An hour later I tied in again and started climbing, this time with no pressure or anxiety. I redpointed the splitter cracks, too. We dubbed the free route Ronny Medelsvensson, a name we feel is suitable for two middle aged fathers.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/profilveggen-free-climb-in-norway-by-erik-massih-and-crister-jansson.html

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/B1iqA2KFpE9/?hl=en-gb

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CwQX1kfMn8d/?img_index=1

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2023/08/pete_whittaker_makes_first_free_ascent_of_eigerdosis_8c-73433

[3] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/pete-whittaker-frees-eigerdosis-8c-trad-crack-jossingfjord-norway.html

The hardest, or up their with the hardest things I've done.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cxvn7caMmLO/=

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vN_3i6axfao

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/CyAugoKMhdi/

[4] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2023/10/pete_whittaker_on_crown_royale_9a-73481

[5] https://open.spotify.com/episode/1XrRTecaRKy9JOqPFXoKhI?

[6] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HodiG0G9knM

[7] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bP5QxcXt69g

[8] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f4t3Mb8U8ak