Climbers

Oscar Eckenstein was an English rock climber, mountaineer and bouldering pioneer. Inventor of the modern crampon, and the short-shafted ice axe. Leader of the first serious expedition to attempt K2.

References

[1] The Eckenstein Boulder which Eckenstein is said to have described as embodying 'all the fundamental problems that are such a joy to mountaineers'

Toni Hiebeler:

The evolution of the karabiner is closely associated with the name of Otto Herzog - 'Rambo' to his friends. According to his life-long companion on the rope, Gustav Haber, this still remembered rock-climber from Munich 'once observed the fire brigade at practice and noticed that the men all had a pear-shaped 'karabiner' attached to their belts. He thereupon conceived the idea of adapting these articles for use in climbing. He proceeded with this idea and tried out this safety device on practice climbs.' Franzl Fischer, former guardian of the Obereintal Hut in the Wettersteingebirge, had a similar recollection, and reported : 'They used long rock pitons, you know them - the long curtain rods to which they attached rope slings and fire brigade karabiners. Rambo and Heini Schneider have often told us about this. But as to who made the karabiner which was used later on, I am unable to tell you, although I know.'

Heini Schneider, a very successful rock-climber in his youth, can no longer remember the origin of the karabiner, but he attributes its invention to Otto Herzog, among others. Franz Hofmann of Munich, Herzog's nephew, confirms that his uncle adapted the karabiner or climbing and told him about it himself. We get a different version from a letter written by Franz Nieberl, the 'Pope of the Wilder Kaiser' from Kufstein : 'I remember quite definitely that on my first meeting with Hans Dülfer, then a new star in the alpine firmament, after his climbs on the 'Dulfer-U' (Totenkirchl), he explained his method of belaying which included karabiners, two rather rudimentary examples of which he brought forth and extolled their virtues. This was in 1910, probably July. Moreover, Otto Herzog also told me of his experiments on the Fleischbank East Face, before Dulfer. Fiechtl, too, confided in me that on his new expeditions to the Zillertal Mountains he always carried a couple of karabiners with him, so as to be ready for anything. [1]

References

[1] Mountain 33 (1974), page 29-30 /library/11052/mountain-33

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/byline/owen-clarke/

Geoffrey Winthrop Young, writing in the Alpine Journal on Preuss' death:

His reliance upon his own skill was justifiable. He had a sounder knowledge of mountaineering principles and practice, assimilated from all quarters as well as from personal experience, than most of us who are now content to sit back and advise others. If he has fallen, it has been from no ill-considered daring or neglect of the precautions held necessary by his school. Accidents in mountaineering occur to the ablest no less than to the least enterprising. Solitary climbing will always have its critics as well as its devotees. But with the feeling of regret for the premature death of a great climber and a fine personality comes also the feeling of pride that there are still men of the highest intellect in our generation who, with full knowledge of all the easier and more profitable alternatives that life has to offer, continue to match their skill as it increases against increasing difficulty, and accept the issue with calm courage. [2]

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1709279942471507

[2] Alpine Journal 1913 Vol 27 427-429 Preuss Accident

Peter Boardman was known for his bold and lightweight ascents, particularly in the Himalayas.

He died while on the North East ridge of Everest in 1982.

Peter is also known for his contribution to the mountaineering literature. After his death the Boardman Tasker Prize was established.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cdq2Kh1jJ2Z/