Sean Myles

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The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/B_MCK4AlQav/

References

[1] Slate Historical Section

Contender for the first flash. Date approximate.

References

[1] JCPC 190 Pritchard Wainwright Trango part 2

A seriously impressive ascent at a time when 8b+ sport routes were still big news.

Peak Rock:

Myles soloed up to clip the first good pegs (worth about E7) then traversed right and jumped off before his successful ascent. With the first gear pre-clipped it was felt to be about F8b.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 141 (1991), page 10 https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141

Sean pre-placed a peg by hand to protect the first ascent. [1] This led to some controversy and the route was not recorded in the subsequent guide. Sean re-climbed it in 1999 hand-placing the peg on lead.

Sean summarises a double page spread of ranting in On The Edge Issue 98:

I can't believe you didn't put Rodney in the bloody guide! [1]

Dave Thomas, who belayed Sean when he re-climbed it:

...no shenanigans, and peg placed on lead. He did hammer it in though - with the palm of his hand ;D

Bit of a nasty rope burn on his calf when he fell off, but peg stayed. Taken out, and then re-placed on lead IIRC. [2]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 98, page 88

[2] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10464.msg638259.html#msg638259

[3] On The Edge Issue 92, page 11

[4] Mountain Issue 141 (1991), page 15 https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141

Sean attempted the route in Dawes’ film Best Forgotten Art, returning a few days later to finish it off

Sean climbed a slightly more direct (and possibly eliminate) finish which is probably worth E8. [1]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/craig_braich_ty_du_pen_yr_ole_wen-525/ogwen_crack-263074#overview:~:text=Pokey%20welsh%20puppies-,feedback,-Always%20Hide%20%CE%B2eta