Jacopo Larcher

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References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jacopo-larcher-repeats-prinzip-hoffnung-in-austria.html

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jacopo-larcher-repeats-psychogramm-8b-trad-in-austria.html

First climbed on the bolts, then 4 days later Jacopo repeated it on trad gear only.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jacopo-larcher-climbs-lapoterapia-trad-at-osso-in-italy.html

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uahuFVGmtlQ

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/05/rhapsody_e11_7a_repeated_by_jacopo_larcher-70443

References

[1] https://www.jacopolarcher.com/en/spedizione.html?id=9

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/12/jacopo_larcher_and_barbara_zangerl_repeat_magic_mushroom_8b+_multi_pitch_on_el_capitan-71414

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q7fYUiXkHys

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/03/jacopo_larcher_climbs_contender_for_worlds_hardest_trad_route-71894

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/barbara-zangerl-jacopo-larcher-first-repeats-beat-kammerlander-kampfzone.html

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CIQHjHBA_Us/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CPldNqUgs3r/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CYI8UswMtf1/

[3] https://fanatic-climbing.com/triple-repetition-du-voyage-a-annot-triple-send-of-le-voyage-in-annot/

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0_P7d4f07U

The route is located on a big boulder at the base of Sergent; it starts following a sloper rail on a prow until a good flake, where you place some micro cams before setting off for the crux section. After a few moves you reach a good crimp, on which I decided to place a cliff as protection; the placement looks good, but the hold is a loose flake, which would probably break if you take a big fall. I tensioned (on lead) the hook with some cord to a lower cam to stop it from falling off accidentally. The next section involves some technical moves and small crimps and ends with some insecure moves to a big flake, where you can finally place some more gear before the easier top out. [1]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jacopo-larcher-adds-two-difficult-trad-climbs-to-valle-dell-orco-italy.html

The moves are simply amazing! Poor footholds, big lock offs and compression climbing towards the end… a real gem! Personally I think this is the hardest climb I’ve done in Orco so far. [1]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jacopo-larcher-adds-two-difficult-trad-climbs-to-valle-dell-orco-italy.html

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CW32UHvs0s7/

[2] https://youtu.be/uahuFVGmtlQ?t=545

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CcoFX16MRn1/

[2] https://youtu.be/uahuFVGmtlQ?t=246

References

[1] https://www.lacrux.com/en/alpinism/babsi-zangerl-and-jacopo-larcher-repeat-eternal-flame-650m-7c-at-the-nameless-tower/

[2] https://www.redbull.com/gb-en/episodes/reel-rock-s9-e2

[3] [https://www.redbull.com/gb-en/episodes/reel-rock-s9-e3

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btdQE4fee44

References

[1] https://youtu.be/fWJvC2pwVjg?t=554

The first repeat since the loss of a hold in the lower half of the route.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CufTYh_sbKB/=

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2023/07/jacopo_larcher_climbs_parthian_shot_e10_6c-73406

[3] https://youtu.be/fWJvC2pwVjg?t=790

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C0cFAfdNY8H/

References

[1] https://gripped.com/news/zangerl-and-larcher-climb-350-metre-5-14b/

With no falls.

Jacopo was tantalisingly close to the flash taking just one fall on the boulder problem pitch before redpointing the pitch successfully on his second attempt. [1]

Climbed via the boulder problem variation. Jacopo and partner Barbara Zangerl swung leads on the easy pitches but both led all the hard pitches. [1]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/it-goes-again-boys-barbara-zangerl-interview-after-freerider-flash-el-cap.html

[2] https://open.spotify.com/episode/5uQGB9PNEAQ7LLa0Vzgdaa

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DCPP0qLScg8/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DLPDIHCMxqz/?img_index=1

[2] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/babsi-zangerl-jacopo-larcher-free-next-generation-6-pitches-f8b/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DSAKRn3jC6x/