Jacopo Larcher

First climbed on the bolts, then 4 days later Jacopo repeated it on trad gear only.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jacopo-larcher-climbs-lapoterapia-trad-at-osso-in-italy.html

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uahuFVGmtlQ

Fifth ascent.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/05/rhapsody_e11_7a_repeated_by_jacopo_larcher-70443

Second ascent. With Barbara Zangerl.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/12/jacopo_larcher_and_barbara_zangerl_repeat_magic_mushroom_8b+_multi_pitch_on_el_capitan-71414

First ascent.

With Barbara Zangerl.

First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q7fYUiXkHys

First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CIQHjHBA_Us/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CPldNqUgs3r/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CYI8UswMtf1/

[3] https://fanatic-climbing.com/triple-repetition-du-voyage-a-annot-triple-send-of-le-voyage-in-annot/

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0_P7d4f07U

First ascent.

The route is located on a big boulder at the base of Sergent; it starts following a sloper rail on a prow until a good flake, where you place some micro cams before setting off for the crux section. After a few moves you reach a good crimp, on which I decided to place a cliff as protection; the placement looks good, but the hold is a loose flake, which would probably break if you take a big fall. I tensioned (on lead) the hook with some cord to a lower cam to stop it from falling off accidentally. The next section involves some technical moves and small crimps and ends with some insecure moves to a big flake, where you can finally place some more gear before the easier top out. [1]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jacopo-larcher-adds-two-difficult-trad-climbs-to-valle-dell-orco-italy.html

First ascent.

The moves are simply amazing! Poor footholds, big lock offs and compression climbing towards the end… a real gem! Personally I think this is the hardest climb I’ve done in Orco so far. [1]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jacopo-larcher-adds-two-difficult-trad-climbs-to-valle-dell-orco-italy.html

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CW32UHvs0s7/

[2] https://youtu.be/uahuFVGmtlQ?t=545

First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CcoFX16MRn1/

[2] https://youtu.be/uahuFVGmtlQ?t=246

With Barbara Zangerl.

References

[1] https://www.lacrux.com/en/alpinism/babsi-zangerl-and-jacopo-larcher-repeat-eternal-flame-650m-7c-at-the-nameless-tower/

[2] https://www.redbull.com/gb-en/episodes/reel-rock-s9-e2

[3] [https://www.redbull.com/gb-en/episodes/reel-rock-s9-e3

Third ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btdQE4fee44

References

[1] https://youtu.be/fWJvC2pwVjg?t=554

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CufTYh_sbKB/=

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2023/07/jacopo_larcher_climbs_parthian_shot_e10_6c-73406

[3] https://youtu.be/fWJvC2pwVjg?t=790

First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C0cFAfdNY8H/

With Barbara Zangerl.

References

[1] https://gripped.com/news/zangerl-and-larcher-climb-350-metre-5-14b/

Third ascent. Belayed by Barbara Zangerl.

With no falls.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DCPP0qLScg8/