The climb is so named because there must be no looking back! Exceedingly severe and exposed; leader requires rubbers and 100 feet of rope, or preferably line, also strength and confidence.
The climb lies on the West side of the great wall which bounds the middle part of the Direct Route, and it overlooks the Chasm, from near the foot of which it starts; it consists of a very steep right-angled groove with an overhanging crack at the top, and a short narrow chimney.
(i) 90 feet. The first fifty feet are climbed, facing right, with much more than ordinary "very" severity, then the vertical wall of the Chasm is taken to and climbed with extreme difficulty until it is possible to step back into the groove and follow it to an uncomfortable resting-place below the overhang. The last twenty feet are extremely severe. After the struggle with the initial overhang, the human limit is almost reached in the desperate bridging above, where the climber is exposed above a 200-feet drop. Above there is a good stance and a fine belay.
(ii) 20 feet. A fairly difficult crack or chimney on the right leads to easy rocks below the terrace from which starts the final crack on the Direct Route; this crack may be taken as a suitable finish if the climber has any energy left!
[1] Climbers' Club 1929 Journal (1929)
1 recorded ascents.
| Climber | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|
| Colin Kirkus | Alternate Leads | onsight | 25th Jun 1929 | |
|
First ascent.
References[1] Ogwen And Carneddau (1993) [2] Climbers' Club Journal 1943, page 169 https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf |
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