First ascent.
The crack was about 40 feet high and overhung at
the top. It looked very difficult. I tied the rope round
my waist, with the other end hanging free, and
started up. The crack was just about wide enough to
fit a boot, and I progressed chiefly by jamming my
hands and my feet. In places there were small
chockstones jammed in the crack and these were a
great help, though I had first to test them to make
sure they were firm.
After an exhausting struggle I arrived at the
overhang. I felt tired, because when you are
climbing a pitch that is really vertical you get no rest
at all. And now I had the overhang to tackle, where
my whole weight would come on my hands. There
was a convenient little stone here, jammed firmly in
the crack, and I threaded the whole length of my
rope down behind it, hanging on meanwhile with
my left hand only. Then I tied myself on to the
chockstone and was able to rest my arms, hanging
more or less bodily on the rope.
Before I started off again I untied the rope from the
chockstone but still left it hanging down behind,
hoping that it might jam and hold me if I did happen
to fall off the next section. Then I started up the
overhang. It was very strenuous, and I struggled
frantically. Then, just at a crucial moment, my
rucksack jammed in the crack. With a despairing
effort I worked it off my shoulder and abandoned it,
precious camera and all. Another blind struggle and
I was up, surprised and relieved to find the rucksack
still hanging over the other shoulder. [1]
References
[1] Ogwen And Carneddau (1993)