Kirkus's Route | VS Multi-pitch at Craig Lloer


3 pitches.
Contributors
remus
3 contributions since 25th November 2024.

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.


Ascents

1 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Colin Kirkus Solo | onsight 11th Jul 1928
First ascent.

The crack was about 40 feet high and overhung at the top. It looked very difficult. I tied the rope round my waist, with the other end hanging free, and started up. The crack was just about wide enough to fit a boot, and I progressed chiefly by jamming my hands and my feet. In places there were small chockstones jammed in the crack and these were a great help, though I had first to test them to make sure they were firm.

After an exhausting struggle I arrived at the overhang. I felt tired, because when you are climbing a pitch that is really vertical you get no rest at all. And now I had the overhang to tackle, where my whole weight would come on my hands. There was a convenient little stone here, jammed firmly in the crack, and I threaded the whole length of my rope down behind it, hanging on meanwhile with my left hand only. Then I tied myself on to the chockstone and was able to rest my arms, hanging more or less bodily on the rope.

Before I started off again I untied the rope from the chockstone but still left it hanging down behind, hoping that it might jam and hold me if I did happen to fall off the next section. Then I started up the overhang. It was very strenuous, and I struggled frantically. Then, just at a crucial moment, my rucksack jammed in the crack. With a despairing effort I worked it off my shoulder and abandoned it, precious camera and all. Another blind struggle and I was up, surprised and relieved to find the rucksack still hanging over the other shoulder. [1]

References

[1] Ogwen And Carneddau (1993)