Stevie Haston

More

• Change Log
• Library
• Threads

Stevie spied the line from the comfort of Pete's eats in Llanberis then pilfered a knife to go and clean the line. Graded E5 6a, the route became easier as it cleaned up with traffic.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=115863599870526&set=a.115862679870618

Paul Williams:

...the intrepid second, Ray Kay, in a hanging belay half-way up the top pitch of The Sind, apparently became a "born again" Christian. [1]

References

[1] Mountain Issue 112, page 17 /library/11111/mountain-112

References

[1] Mountain Issue 112, page 17 /library/11111/mountain-112

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/5743395

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/sabart-10224/descente_lolita-195215

With a couple of pieces of gear pre-placed and after watching his partner Laurence on the start of the route.

Haston:

If I climb well, make no mistakes, I sometimes onsight F8a. I have done the odd F8a+ and maybe F8b, but last year I began to think I had a better level and might achieve more if I got my act together, and was really lucky and really wanted it. Wanting or being hungry is key and has a lot to do with onsighting. Nowadays I'm a bit too mellow or simply I don't need it, maybe too much risk of hurting a finger is always at the back of my mind. The thing about Greenspit was that because I have lots of experience doing cracks, I thought I could do a good job and I did. […]

In my opinion, although it is hard to tell when you do some thing first time, it was probably F8b max. It fit me pretty well although my hands were a bit too big, you know cracks are very morpho, size is important to critical. There's no danger, although Laurence took a bit of a fall when she pulled a cam trying to lead it. I'd say it's like a 5.12 crack to a V8 move, a bit on the powerful side, but nothing really that tricky. In English if you like, bottom end E6 crack to a 6c sequence.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/12/stevie_haston_crushes_greenspit-50641