Papichulo | 9a+ Sport route at Oliana

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brillant! absolutely my style, 5 days of work

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/margo-hayes-climbs-papichulo-oliana-her-third-9a-plus.html

References

[1] https://www.thenorthface.jp/athlete/2297

References

[1] https://fanatic-climbing.com/lucien-martinez-conquiert-papichulo-lucien-martinez-conquers-papichulo/

I’m really happy to have done this king line, a mythical route in 9a+. I started trying Papichulo 4 years ago I think. Since then, I’ve been back almost every year but not really regularly and when I was close to doing the route, there was always something that kept me from coming back to Oliana and “finishing the job”. Hard to say how many tries, but a lot… That’s the route that required the most work out of me, by a mile. [1]

References

[1] https://fanatic-climbing.com/thibault-lair-soffre-papichulo-9a-thibault-lair-conquers-papichulo-9a/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C6_p7AYNQjS/

[2] https://fanatic-climbing.com/interview-jorg-verhoeven-papi-chulo-9a/

Notably, Jessy hadn't climbed 9a prior to this ascent so she skipped a grade.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DCZLxcTtP7f/?img_index=1

[2] https://www.instagram.com/reel/DC6wW0INxo0/

My most difficult and longest project. 35+ days. 2 long trips. Felt pretty much all the 1st in the cross move right after the rest. This was so hard mentally to get stuck there. With the comfort of our Van, a whole year ahead and a better preparation the process was way more chill and overall better this time. I even started to like it in the end. One try a day maximum to keep the motivation high and not lose my mind. I learned to be patient ! Could climb other amazing stuff as well during this Time and got the endurance of this insane cliff. So happy to got out of my comfort zone, climb a 9a+ in what I consider my antistyle and finally achieve a longtime project. Many Incredible people met during all this time. Deep thanks for all the people involved.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DHEDlITN1Ky/?img_index=1

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DQ2VrB0k9xc/?img_index=1