Off the Wagon SDS | 8C+ Boulder problem at Val Bavona


Pics + Vids

Shawn Raboutou
Added at 23:02 on 08 February 2021
Jimmy Webb
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Added at 12:02 on 10 February 2021
Jimmy Webb
Added at 23:02 on 08 February 2021
Daniel Woods
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Added at 21:04 on 07 April 2021
Giuliano Cameroni
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Added at 21:05 on 26 May 2021
Giuliano Cameroni
Added at 20:01 on 03 January 2022
Simon Lorenzi
Added at 22:03 on 20 March 2022
Simon Lorenzi
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Added at 07:03 on 21 March 2022
Simon Lorenzi
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Added at 19:11 on 25 November 2021
Sergii Topishko
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Added at 09:12 on 27 December 2021
Sergii Topishko
Added at 10:01 on 06 January 2022
Yannick Flohé
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Added at 22:01 on 01 January 2022

Ascents

7 recorded ascents.

Climber Style FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Shawn Raboutou Boulder (Worked) 27 Oct 2018 8C+

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOfpAd0St7Q

Jimmy Webb Boulder (Worked) 27 Feb 2020

Second ascent.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B9C7aUhhE1h/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76v9jvW56vw

Daniel Woods Boulder (Worked) 09 Mar 2020

Third ascent.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B9hFnvgFmjH/

Giuliano Cameroni Boulder (Worked) 26 May 2021

100+ sessions over 6 years. Giuliano worked out some new beta using some tiny crimps under the roof, he got close with this method but ultimately went back to a sequence that was pretty similar to the normal method.

Giuliano moved the wagon making the sit start in to a stand (thought at no change in grade).

https://www.instagram.com/p/CPV-rUjj3tJ/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edxHp45ECuE

Simon Lorenzi Boulder (Worked) 24 Nov 2021

It's important to notice that the crux hold was already not the same as before. A small christal has gone and the left side of the hold is now a bit deeper. [3]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CWtThn3tdZo/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_5X4ZR5MO6w

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/CbVdSBvAF8b/

Sergii Topishko Boulder (Worked) 26 Dec 2021

Sergii suggested that one of the holds may have improved slightly since earlier in the year.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CX9VMMKodmx/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IdB5ot_EGF4

Yannick Flohé Boulder (Worked) 01 Jan 2022

https://www.instagram.com/p/CYMl9wfIIO8/