Off the Wagon Low | 8C+ Boulder problem at Valle Bavona

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• Change Log

First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOfpAd0St7Q

Second ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/B9C7aUhhE1h/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76v9jvW56vw

Third ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/B9hFnvgFmjH/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/shorts/MZrV6RHX8YU

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZrV6RHX8YU

Over 100 sessions.

100+ sessions over 6 years. Giuliano worked out some new beta using some tiny crimps under the roof, he got close with this method but ultimately went back to a sequence that was pretty similar to the normal method.

Giuliano moved the wagon making the sit start in to a stand (thought at no change in grade).

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CPV-rUjj3tJ/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edxHp45ECuE

It's important to notice that the crux hold was already not the same as before. A small christal has gone and the left side of the hold is now a bit deeper. [3]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CWtThn3tdZo/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_5X4ZR5MO6w

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/CbVdSBvAF8b/

Sergii suggested that one of the holds may have improved slightly since earlier in the year.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CX9VMMKodmx/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IdB5ot_EGF4

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CYMl9wfIIO8/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CpiU1EFDdGc/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CpqLv8xNi4n/

[3] https://youtu.be/60ZX8gddUNk?t=738

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Co79xqRNurb/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJpkkDTHd0s

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CsWC-V6N8k-/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deZ-G0T-6ME

This trip started rather demoralizing. In my second session I broke of a foodhold doing the cruxmove. This Hold was also mandatory for the first move. For that I had to work out a new beta, which felt slightly harder. The cruxmove from the stand still feels the same to me. After spending a hole day only working out a new beta for the first move I gained the confidence for some proper goes the next session. Two days later I suddenly stuck the cruxmove. Only needing to do the campus rose move I thought this is it. I always said I will never fall there. Well never say never. Dryfiring of the crimp I found myself back on the pads. The next day was the last of the trip. It was a mental battle but this time I got lucky. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C12RZL7t5yu/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jxTPjPoq_Cc