Off the Wagon Low | 8C+ Boulder problem at Val Bavona

UKClimbing.com
Low start to Off the Wagon.
Contributors: remus

Pics + Vids

Shawn Raboutou
Added at 23:02 on 08 February 2021
Jimmy Webb
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Added at 19:07 on 11 July 2022
Jimmy Webb
Added at 23:02 on 08 February 2021
Daniel Woods
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Added at 21:04 on 07 April 2021
Giuliano Cameroni
Added at 20:01 on 03 January 2022
Giuliano Cameroni
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Added at 21:05 on 26 May 2021
Simon Lorenzi
Added at 22:03 on 20 March 2022
Simon Lorenzi
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Added at 19:11 on 25 November 2021
Simon Lorenzi
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Added at 07:03 on 21 March 2022
Sergii Topishko
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Added at 09:12 on 27 December 2021
Sergii Topishko
Added at 10:01 on 06 January 2022
Yannick Flohé
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Added at 22:01 on 01 January 2022
Niccolò Ceria
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Added at 23:03 on 11 March 2023
Niccolò Ceria
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Added at 18:03 on 08 March 2023
Florian Wientjes
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Added at 23:02 on 21 February 2023
Florian Wientjes
Added at 20:07 on 25 July 2023
Francesco Berardino
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Added at 13:05 on 23 May 2023
Francesco Berardino
Added at 16:06 on 21 June 2023
Francesco Berardino
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Added at 13:05 on 23 May 2023
Lasse von Freier
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Added at 17:01 on 09 January 2024
Lasse von Freier
Added at 18:04 on 02 April 2024
Charles Albert
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Added at 05:08 on 21 August 2023

Ascents

12 recorded ascents, including 1 unsuccessful ascent.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Shawn Raboutou Boulder | worked 27th Oct 2018 8C+
First ascent.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOfpAd0St7Q
Jimmy Webb Boulder | worked 27th Feb 2020
Second ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/B9C7aUhhE1h/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76v9jvW56vw
Daniel Woods Boulder | worked 9th Mar 2020
Third ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/B9hFnvgFmjH/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/shorts/MZrV6RHX8YU
Giuliano Cameroni Boulder | worked 26th May 2021
Over 100 sessions.

100+ sessions over 6 years. Giuliano worked out some new beta using some tiny crimps under the roof, he got close with this method but ultimately went back to a sequence that was pretty similar to the normal method.

Giuliano moved the wagon making the sit start in to a stand (thought at no change in grade).

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CPV-rUjj3tJ/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edxHp45ECuE
Simon Lorenzi Boulder | worked 24th Nov 2021

It's important to notice that the crux hold was already not the same as before. A small christal has gone and the left side of the hold is now a bit deeper. [3]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CWtThn3tdZo/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_5X4ZR5MO6w

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/CbVdSBvAF8b/
Sergii Topishko Boulder | worked 26th Dec 2021

Sergii suggested that one of the holds may have improved slightly since earlier in the year.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CX9VMMKodmx/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IdB5ot_EGF4
Yannick Flohé Boulder | worked 1st Jan 2022

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CYMl9wfIIO8/
Niccolò Ceria Boulder | worked 3rd Feb 2023

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CpiU1EFDdGc/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CpqLv8xNi4n/
Florian Wientjes Boulder | worked 18th Feb 2023

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Co79xqRNurb/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJpkkDTHd0s
Francesco Berardino Boulder | worked 17th May 2023

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CsWC-V6N8k-/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deZ-G0T-6ME
Lasse von Freier Boulder | worked 2nd Jan 2024

This trip started rather demoralizing. In my second session I broke of a foodhold doing the cruxmove. This Hold was also mandatory for the first move. For that I had to work out a new beta, which felt slightly harder. The cruxmove from the stand still feels the same to me. After spending a hole day only working out a new beta for the first move I gained the confidence for some proper goes the next session. Two days later I suddenly stuck the cruxmove. Only needing to do the campus rose move I thought this is it. I always said I will never fall there. Well never say never. Dryfiring of the crimp I found myself back on the pads. The next day was the last of the trip. It was a mental battle but this time I got lucky. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C12RZL7t5yu/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jxTPjPoq_Cc
Charles Albert Boulder | did not finish

Charles got extremely close using a new sequence for the upper part but ultimately didn't complete the problem.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CwLn2Ywtu5a/

[2] Reel Rock 16, 2022 https://www.imdb.com/title/tt19847338/?ref_=fn_al_tt_9