Mayfair | 7a+ Sport route at Pen Trwyn

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Jerry Moffatt, 2012:

Led with a couple of rests by Moffatt and Pollitt, an achievement which showed the possibilities of the future.

The first time I climbed on Pen Trwyn was in 1980, two days before my 17th birthday. I cycled over from school and met Andy Pollitt. He’d been going on and on about a new route he’d seen and how sure he was that it would go free. I was expecting to see a HVS or E1 crack or gully. When I saw the aid line of Mayfair, the route he was proposing to free, I thought he was mad. The wall looked smooth and hold-less, with an overhang thrown in for good measure! I belayed for what seemed like hours until Andy had freed every move on the first pitch. Having seen the sequence, I managed to follow it without a fall. I then led the top pitch, again taking hours, and again freed the moves. Andy of course followed it cleanly. We were ecstatic! It was the start of things to come and after that I thought anything could be freed. [1]

References

[1] North Wales Limestone, 2014