Professor Whittaker | E7 Trad climb at Cilan Head

United Kingdom / Wales / Pwllheli

Quick Info

Grade E7
Type Trad climb
Crag Cilan Head
Country United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Rock type Sandstone
History
First ascent Johnny Dawes (1990)
Recorded repeats 2

Quick Info

Grade E7
Type Trad climb
Crag Cilan Head
Country United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Rock type Sandstone
History
First ascent Johnny Dawes (1990)
Recorded repeats 2

Possibly the second E7 new route climbed onsight in the UK, after Hardback Thesaurus. Better protection was subsequently found, reducing the seriousness.

References

[1] https://www.commonclimber.com/pen-llyn.html

Contributors
42 contributions since 17th November 2025.
8 contributions since 23rd December 2025.

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Ascents

3 successful ascents recorded.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
First ascent. With Ray Kay.

Dawes became committed and had to make powerful moves on dubious holds whilst facing a 20-meter deck-out. [1]

Said to have been climbed with "a minimal rack and a maximal hangover". [2]

References

[1] https://www.commonclimber.com/pen-llyn.html

[2] JCPC 189 Pritchard Wainwright Trango part 1

[3] Mountain Issue 135 (1990), page 15 /library/11120/mountain-135

With George Smith and Leo Houlding.

Adam and co. had an easier time than Johnny Dawes, with a proper rack.

References

[1] JCPC 189 Pritchard Wainwright Trango part 1