New Deal | 8b+ Sport route

More

• Change Log
• Threads

First ascent. 18 sessions.

Graded 13d at the time as Cosgrove had not yet climbed 5.14.

It took me somewhere like 18 days to do it, I think, I had never climb a 14a and the grade did not exist in California, but a 14a Euro-climber tried and failed on the line, shortly after my red-point. He later traveled to Smith Rock and climbed, JB Tribout, To Bolt or Not to Be, very quickly. So, I would say that Alan [Moore]'s rating should stand, as at the time I really didn't know what 13d or 14a was, just that it was damn hard for me and I had to give it a number.

I was in school, guiding full time and training, I had no time or money to go on the road and repeat other 14a, but spent the time climbing routes close to home. I named the climb after FDR plan to put America back to work in the Great Depression, but that metaphor was lost on the many rap bolt haters, who thought I was rubbing it in their face. I felt the small compromise in ethic would lead to higher numbers. (Scott Cosgrove in 2013, after the second ascent)

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2Xwu9XDbPY