Nether Edge 6c | Climbing History

Two bolts were placed by first ascensionist John Allen; they were the first bolts in New Zealand.

The route is named after a suburb of Allen’s native Sheffield suburb – also an appropriate name for an arête climb in New Zealand.

Climber	Style	Ascent Date	Suggested Grade
John Allen	Lead \| worked	1979
First ascent.
Ben Heason	Solo \| onsight	2002	E7
Not having the necessary time or equipment to search out potential new lines Ben contented himself with some impressive boltless ascents (solo’s due to the lack of natural protection) of some existing routes. The more impressive routes soloed were: -Little Ling 18(On Sight) A serious, extremely tenuous slab, solid E6 6a. Dr Squat 22 (On Sight) A bouldery start followed by a perplexing top out, E6 6b. Nether Edge 21 (On Sight). This mega classic soaring arête, first climbed by the legendary gritstone master John Allen way back in 1979, proved to be a scarily technical E7 6b. Suicide by Hallucination 26 (Flash). Equating to a French 7b+ sport route, this sustained wall climb has a heinous crux at about 8 or 9m, followed by sustained 6a climbing, with a 6b move to reach the slopey top. Hard E7 6c. References [1] https://www.climbing.de/news/heason-hits-new-zealand-40570.html

Nether Edge | 6c Sport route at Quantum Field

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