5.13c or 5.13b, V10.
A variation, Light Heart (5.13b/8a), avoids the crux dyno. on pitch 6 by climbing Freeblast or similar to the heart ledges.
7 successful ascents recorded.
| Climber | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|
| Brad Gobright | Lead | worked | Jun 2015 | |
|
Gobright was able to free climb all the route bar the ~V10 dyno on pitch 6 aka The Dub Step. |
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| Mason Earle First free ascent. | Lead | worked | Jun 2015 | |
| Alex Honnold Third ascent. With Tommy Caldwell. | Lead | worked | Oct 2023 | |
| Oliver Schmidt With Tobias Wolf. | Lead | worked | Oct 2023 | |
|
'Light Heart' version avoiding Dub Step dyno on pitch 6. |
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| Tobias Wolf With Oliver Schmidt. | Lead | worked | Oct 2023 | |
|
'Light Heart' version via the Muir-blast start avoiding the Dub Step dyno. References[1] https://kayakandclimb.blogspot.com/2023/10/free-heart-route.html |
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| Connor Herson With Tommy Caldwell. | Lead | worked | Between 5th Nov 2024 and 7th Nov 2024 | |
|
Over 3 days ground-up, having previously climbed Golden Gate (E8). References[1] https://gripped.com/profiles/november-2024-herson-and-caldwell-free-el-caps-heart-route/ [2] https://gripped.com/profiles/november-2024-herson-and-caldwell-free-el-caps-heart-route/ |
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| Tommy Caldwell With Connor Herson. | Lead | worked | Between 5th Nov 2024 and 7th Nov 2024 | |