5.13c or 5.13b, V10.
A variation, Light Heart (5.13b/8a), avoids the crux dyno. on pitch 6 by climbing Freeblast or similar to the heart ledges.
7 successful ascents recorded.
| Climber | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mason Earle | Lead | worked | Jun 2015 | ||
| First free ascent. | ||||
| Brad Gobright | Lead | worked | Jun 2015 | ||
|
Gobright was able to free climb all the route bar the ~V10 dyno on pitch 6 aka The Dub Step. |
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| Alex Honnold | Lead | worked | Oct 2023 | ||
| Third ascent. With Tommy Caldwell. | ||||
| Tobias Wolf | Lead | worked | Oct 2023 | ||
| With Oliver Schmidt. | ||||
|
'Light Heart' version via the Muir-blast start avoiding the Dub Step dyno. References[1] https://kayakandclimb.blogspot.com/2023/10/free-heart-route.html |
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| Oliver Schmidt | Lead | worked | Oct 2023 | ||
| With Tobias Wolf. | ||||
|
'Light Heart' version avoiding Dub Step dyno on pitch 6. |
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| Connor Herson | Lead | worked | Between 5th Nov 2024 and 7th Nov 2024 | ||
| With Tommy Caldwell. | ||||
|
Over 3 days ground-up (E8). References[1] https://gripped.com/profiles/november-2024-herson-and-caldwell-free-el-caps-heart-route/ [2] https://gripped.com/profiles/november-2024-herson-and-caldwell-free-el-caps-heart-route/ |
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| Tommy Caldwell | Lead | worked | Between 5th Nov 2024 and 7th Nov 2024 | ||
| With Connor Herson. | ||||