Deep Fake | 8C+ Boulder problem in Brione

Switzerland / Ticino / Locarno
UKClimbing.com | 8a.nu
Morpho. Sit start to Fake Pamplemousse.
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84 contributions since 26th December 2024.
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Ascents

6 successful ascents and 1 unsuccessful attempt recorded.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
First ascent. Around 50 sessions.

It was going really bad and I had basically decided that I had gotten too weak on one of the moves to do be able to do it. I then decided to change one thing as a last ditch effort and out of nowhere I found myself into the stand for the first time ever!

I tried to keep my cool but I started to numb out. On the penultimate move I completely missed the hold and in that moment I thought I was off. Somehow I stayed on and couldn’t quite believe that I had finally done it. All the pressure just washed away standing on top and it was honestly the best feeling I’ve had in climbing. [3]

References

[1] https://youtu.be/pNBX-sKv2_k

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/DEDJIg6NYFR/

[3] https://www.8a.nu/news/nathan-philips-fas-deep-fake-8c%2B

[4] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2025/01/nathan_phillips_talks_about_his_new_8c+_boulder_deep_fake-73882

[5] https://open.spotify.com/episode/0XF0Zsdm50PQkyqTzpwKjB
Second ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lqmQsIcuiYg
Third ascent.

Personal feeling of 8c hard, but taking into account the opinions of other climbers who have tried the boulder and with hindsight that this boulder is in a style that suits me enormously, I think that it is probably a soft 8c+. However, it is possible that the boulder is really easier for very tall climbers... [2, translated]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/DJv7W_Jt7iy/

[2] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/switzerland/brione/sectors/frogger/routes/deep-fake/

[3] https://youtube.com/shorts/a5ya23_kM4Q?utm_source=ZTQxO
1 session.

Sent in one session of trying the low start.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/DQUiu9riLU2/
Over 10 sessions.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DTQzFtsEsJH/

Adam fell off the move to the lip on his flash try.

Grade-wise, the problem is very height-dependent and for my height, 8C fits perfectly. Nathan's beta is significantly harder due to his height. [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DVi7bJmjNhO/

[2] https://www.adamondra.com/celestite-8c-flash-and-lion-s-share-8c-flash/

[3] https://youtu.be/Pm68UOHI3Qw?t=167
10 sessions.

After releasing a video of the ascent [3] the YouTube channel Some Climbing News analysed the footage. [2] The channel alleged that the video had been edited to create the impression of a complete ascent, rather than presenting an uncut recording of the climb. When asked to provide the unedited footage Boes declined to do so, explaining that it had been filmed by a cameraman who was no longer contactable, a claim the channel regarded as unconvincing. In support of it's allegation that Boes had not completed the problem, the channel cited scepticism from other members of the Dutch climbing community. At the time of writing, the only uncut footage available online of Boes climbing hard is Riders on the Storm (8B).

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DWbqvT-jN7h/

[2] Climbing News' analysis of the ascent footage (June 2026) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ENT1FkcA_Y

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_b6yGJsTWw