Excalibur | 9b+ Sport route

8a.nu
Bolted by Morris Fontanari and Cristian Dorigatti. See also Excalibur Low Start.

Approximately 8B/+ to a bad rest in to an 8B+/C boulder [1], 18 moves with Stefano Ghisolfi's sequence. As well as the line Stefano climbed there is also the potential for adding a hard 4 move boulder problem in to the start of the route.

Interestingly Stefano Ghisolfi spent a lot of time working the route with other climbers before making the first ascent, notably Adam Ondra, Will Bosi and Jakob Schubert.

References

[1] Will Bosi setting a replica of the upper crux https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=58zB3pViWEU

Contributors
remus
24 contributions since 5th February 2023.
jeremy
1 contribution since 8th April 2025.

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.

Ascents

3 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Stefano Ghisolfi Lead | worked 3rd Feb 2023 9b+
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CoRqBUssJoy/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7q8bdbuulb0

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-htOMCd9K4
Will Bosi Lead | worked 3rd Feb 2025 9b+
Second ascent. 21 sessions. Harder than Terranova, Alphane and Return of the Sleepwalker.

Exactly 2 years after Stefano Ghisolfi made the first ascent!

The first go of the day everything went perfectly, I felt like I was floating through climb and arrived at my previous high point feeling strong. Setting up for the final hard move I was really confident but disaster struck and I just missed the hold and fell of I took an hour rest, warmed up and went again. This time I arrived at the rest feeling tired battling through the upper section but on the final crux I landed perfectly into the slot. Pumped out of my mind, I almost fell jumping to the jug but just about kept it together for the top out.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DFsLqiGC1tc/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2025/02/will_bosi_makes_the_second_ascent_of_excalibur_9b+-73894

[3] https://open.spotify.com/episode/1RjDH1oAZkr9epcy4LrA0l?
Brooke Raboutou Lead | worked 5th Apr 2025
Third ascent. First female ascent.

With this ascent Brooke became the first woman to climb 9b+.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DIMfCRcJ1zQ/

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/brooke-raboutou-first-woman-climb-9b-plus-excalibur-arco.html