Change Log for Loca

Overview

Total Changes

6

First Change

20th Dec 2021

Last Change

31st Jan 2024

Log

Date Time User Type Name Attribute
1 31st January 2024 12:17:34 remus ascent Ryuichi Murai notes
Before
> Stoked to make the 2nd ascent Shinichiro Nomura bloc. I tried this line four years ago when it was an old project and couldn't find a vision for it at the time. Since then I've been working on other projects and never came back, but exactly a year ago Nomsin finally finished this one as "Loca". There are two cruxes on this line. One is a savage jump to one finger pocket. And the other is a technical move that makes full use of the foot jam in the middle. In particular, the former is overhanging and the strength of the move is high, and high precision is required because I have to aim at the one-finger pocket of the blind. After adjusting the grip and jump output many times, I was finally able to hit the pocket with a perfect trajectory just before the time limit. The foot jam part after that was steady, but somehow I managed to send it. [1] ### References [1] [https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/japan/shiobara/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/loca/](https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/japan/shiobara/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/loca/) [2] [https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj8IbQeyLop/](https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj8IbQeyLop/)
After
> Stoked to make the 2nd ascent [Shinichiro Nomura](/climber/1156/shinichiro-nomura) bloc. I tried this line four years ago when it was an old project and couldn't find a vision for it at the time. Since then I've been working on other projects and never came back, but exactly a year ago Nomsin finally finished this one as "Loca". There are two cruxes on this line. One is a savage jump to one finger pocket. And the other is a technical move that makes full use of the foot jam in the middle. In particular, the former is overhanging and the strength of the move is high, and high precision is required because I have to aim at the one-finger pocket of the blind. After adjusting the grip and jump output many times, I was finally able to hit the pocket with a perfect trajectory just before the time limit. The foot jam part after that was steady, but somehow I managed to send it. [1] ### References [1] [https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/japan/shiobara/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/loca/](https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/japan/shiobara/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/loca/) [2] [https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj8IbQeyLop/](https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj8IbQeyLop/)
Diff
--- before +++ after @@ -1,4 +1,4 @@ -> Stoked to make the 2nd ascent Shinichiro Nomura bloc. I tried this line four years ago when it was an old project and couldn't find a vision for it at the time. Since then I've been working on other projects and never came back, but exactly a year ago Nomsin finally finished this one as "Loca". There are two cruxes on this line. One is a savage jump to one finger pocket. And the other is a technical move that makes full use of the foot jam in the middle. In particular, the former is overhanging and the strength of the move is high, and high precision is required because I have to aim at the one-finger pocket of the blind. After adjusting the grip and jump output many times, I was finally able to hit the pocket with a perfect trajectory just before the time limit. The foot jam part after that was steady, but somehow I managed to send it. [1] +> Stoked to make the 2nd ascent [Shinichiro Nomura](/climber/1156/shinichiro-nomura) bloc. I tried this line four years ago when it was an old project and couldn't find a vision for it at the time. Since then I've been working on other projects and never came back, but exactly a year ago Nomsin finally finished this one as "Loca". There are two cruxes on this line. One is a savage jump to one finger pocket. And the other is a technical move that makes full use of the foot jam in the middle. In particular, the former is overhanging and the strength of the move is high, and high precision is required because I have to aim at the one-finger pocket of the blind. After adjusting the grip and jump output many times, I was finally able to hit the pocket with a perfect trajectory just before the time limit. The foot jam part after that was steady, but somehow I managed to send it. [1] ### References
2 31st January 2024 12:17:34 remus ascent Ryuichi Murai notes_pretty
Before
<blockquote> <p>Stoked to make the 2nd ascent Shinichiro Nomura bloc. I tried this line four years ago when it was an old project and couldn't find a vision for it at the time. Since then I've been working on other projects and never came back, but exactly a year ago Nomsin finally finished this one as "Loca". There are two cruxes on this line. One is a savage jump to one finger pocket. And the other is a technical move that makes full use of the foot jam in the middle. In particular, the former is overhanging and the strength of the move is high, and high precision is required because I have to aim at the one-finger pocket of the blind. After adjusting the grip and jump output many times, I was finally able to hit the pocket with a perfect trajectory just before the time limit. The foot jam part after that was steady, but somehow I managed to send it. [1]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/japan/shiobara/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/loca/">https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/japan/shiobara/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/loca/</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj8IbQeyLop/">https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj8IbQeyLop/</a></p>
After
<blockquote> <p>Stoked to make the 2nd ascent <a href="/climber/1156/shinichiro-nomura">Shinichiro Nomura</a> bloc. I tried this line four years ago when it was an old project and couldn't find a vision for it at the time. Since then I've been working on other projects and never came back, but exactly a year ago Nomsin finally finished this one as "Loca". There are two cruxes on this line. One is a savage jump to one finger pocket. And the other is a technical move that makes full use of the foot jam in the middle. In particular, the former is overhanging and the strength of the move is high, and high precision is required because I have to aim at the one-finger pocket of the blind. After adjusting the grip and jump output many times, I was finally able to hit the pocket with a perfect trajectory just before the time limit. The foot jam part after that was steady, but somehow I managed to send it. [1]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/japan/shiobara/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/loca/">https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/japan/shiobara/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/loca/</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj8IbQeyLop/">https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj8IbQeyLop/</a></p>
3 31st January 2024 12:16:15 remus ascent Ryuichi Murai notes
Before
[https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj8IbQeyLop/](https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj8IbQeyLop/)
After
> Stoked to make the 2nd ascent Shinichiro Nomura bloc. I tried this line four years ago when it was an old project and couldn't find a vision for it at the time. Since then I've been working on other projects and never came back, but exactly a year ago Nomsin finally finished this one as "Loca". There are two cruxes on this line. One is a savage jump to one finger pocket. And the other is a technical move that makes full use of the foot jam in the middle. In particular, the former is overhanging and the strength of the move is high, and high precision is required because I have to aim at the one-finger pocket of the blind. After adjusting the grip and jump output many times, I was finally able to hit the pocket with a perfect trajectory just before the time limit. The foot jam part after that was steady, but somehow I managed to send it. [1] ### References [1] [https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/japan/shiobara/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/loca/](https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/japan/shiobara/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/loca/) [2] [https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj8IbQeyLop/](https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj8IbQeyLop/)
Diff
--- before +++ after @@ -1 +1,7 @@ -[https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj8IbQeyLop/](https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj8IbQeyLop/) +> Stoked to make the 2nd ascent Shinichiro Nomura bloc. I tried this line four years ago when it was an old project and couldn't find a vision for it at the time. Since then I've been working on other projects and never came back, but exactly a year ago Nomsin finally finished this one as "Loca". There are two cruxes on this line. One is a savage jump to one finger pocket. And the other is a technical move that makes full use of the foot jam in the middle. In particular, the former is overhanging and the strength of the move is high, and high precision is required because I have to aim at the one-finger pocket of the blind. After adjusting the grip and jump output many times, I was finally able to hit the pocket with a perfect trajectory just before the time limit. The foot jam part after that was steady, but somehow I managed to send it. [1] + +### References + +[1] [https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/japan/shiobara/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/loca/](https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/japan/shiobara/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/loca/) + +[2] [https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj8IbQeyLop/](https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj8IbQeyLop/)
4 31st January 2024 12:16:15 remus ascent Ryuichi Murai notes_pretty
Before
<p><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj8IbQeyLop/">https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj8IbQeyLop/</a></p>
After
<blockquote> <p>Stoked to make the 2nd ascent Shinichiro Nomura bloc. I tried this line four years ago when it was an old project and couldn't find a vision for it at the time. Since then I've been working on other projects and never came back, but exactly a year ago Nomsin finally finished this one as "Loca". There are two cruxes on this line. One is a savage jump to one finger pocket. And the other is a technical move that makes full use of the foot jam in the middle. In particular, the former is overhanging and the strength of the move is high, and high precision is required because I have to aim at the one-finger pocket of the blind. After adjusting the grip and jump output many times, I was finally able to hit the pocket with a perfect trajectory just before the time limit. The foot jam part after that was steady, but somehow I managed to send it. [1]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/japan/shiobara/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/loca/">https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/japan/shiobara/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/loca/</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj8IbQeyLop/">https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj8IbQeyLop/</a></p>
5 31st January 2024 12:14:50 remus - - eight_a_nu_url
Before
None
After
https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/japan/shiobara/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/loca/
6 20th December 2021 07:49:58 remus - - -
Before
None
After
None

Page 1