| Date | Time | User | Type | Name | Attribute | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 41 | 31st May 2024 | 06:42:07 | remus | ascent | Carlo Traversi | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<blockquote>
<p>I can’t say the crux of The Dominator is the most difficult move I’ve ever done, but it’s certainly required the most patience. Sticking with the original method was a conscious decision made years ago in an effort to better appreciate an important step in the progression of bouldering. What Jerry accomplished in 1993, with this move, was a big step forward. I’ve given this move more attempts than any other in my nearly 20 years of climbing. Easily over 1000 tries. I could have switched to the newer heel hook method and been done in a day, but I resolved to take the long road. Now, having finally arrived on the other side of a long battle, I can honestly say that this move taught me more about how to move proficiently as a climber than anything else I’ve encountered. In the age of the “quick send” it’s important to find opportunities for abiding effort, especially when the result is modest on paper. Therein lies growth.</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CJUI7cqMREY/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CJUI7cqMREY/</a></p>
After
<blockquote>
<p>I can’t say the crux of The Dominator is the most difficult move I’ve ever done, but it’s certainly required the most patience. Sticking with the original method was a conscious decision made years ago in an effort to better appreciate an important step in the progression of bouldering. What Jerry accomplished in 1993, with this move, was a big step forward. I’ve given this move more attempts than any other in my nearly 20 years of climbing. Easily over 1000 tries. I could have switched to the newer heel hook method and been done in a day, but I resolved to take the long road. Now, having finally arrived on the other side of a long battle, I can honestly say that this move taught me more about how to move proficiently as a climber than anything else I’ve encountered. In the age of the “quick send” it’s important to find opportunities for abiding effort, especially when the result is modest on paper. Therein lies growth.</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CJUI7cqMREY/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CJUI7cqMREY/</a></p>
|
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| 42 | 14th March 2024 | 18:00:28 | remus | ascent | Tim Clifford | ascent_type_id | |
|
Before
None
After
2
|
|||||||
| 43 | 14th March 2024 | 18:00:28 | remus | ascent | Tim Clifford | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
None
After
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 109, page 12</p>
|
|||||||
| 44 | 14th March 2024 | 18:00:28 | remus | ascent | Tim Clifford | notes | |
|
Before
None
After
### References
[1] *On The Edge* Issue 109, page 12
Diff
--- before
|
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| 45 | 14th March 2024 | 18:00:28 | remus | ascent | Tim Clifford | ascent_style_id | |
|
Before
None
After
1
|
|||||||
| 46 | 14th March 2024 | 18:00:28 | remus | ascent | Tim Clifford | climb_id | |
|
Before
None
After
546
|
|||||||
| 47 | 14th March 2024 | 18:00:28 | remus | ascent | Tim Clifford | climber_id | |
|
Before
None
After
251
|
|||||||
| 48 | 14th March 2024 | 18:00:28 | remus | ascent | Tim Clifford | ascent_dt_end | |
|
Before
None
After
2002-01-01
|
|||||||
| 49 | 14th March 2024 | 18:00:28 | remus | ascent | Tim Clifford | ascent_dt_start | |
|
Before
None
After
2001-01-01
|
|||||||
| 50 | 25th February 2024 | 22:32:48 | remus | - | - | eight_a_nu_url | |
|
Before
None
After
https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/united-states/camp-4/sectors/unknown-sector-5dd83/routes/dominator/
|
|||||||
| 51 | 25th February 2024 | 22:31:39 | remus | ascent | Jerry Moffatt | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p><a href="https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807">https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807</a></p>
After
<blockquote>
<p>I went on a strict diet for about a week. Salads only. As a pure power problem, I didn’t need any stamina, so didn’t need any carbohydrates in my body at all. I could do it if I felt dizzy, so I cut out almost all food. This wasn’t hard. I was keen to lose the weight to give me the edge on that first move and I was so excited about doing it that I could hardly eat anyway. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/library/320/revelations">Revelations (2010)</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807">https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 52 | 25th February 2024 | 22:31:39 | remus | ascent | Jerry Moffatt | notes | |
|
Before
[https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807](https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807)
After
> I went on a strict diet for about a week. Salads only. As a pure power problem, I didn’t need any stamina, so didn’t need any carbohydrates in my body at all. I could do it if I felt dizzy, so I cut out almost all food. This wasn’t hard. I was keen to lose the weight to give me the edge on that first move and I was so excited about doing it that I could hardly eat anyway. [1]
### References
[1] [Revelations (2010)](/library/320/revelations)
[2] [https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807](https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 53 | 25th February 2024 | 22:30:47 | remus | - | - | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>Originally climbed by pinching the right hand starting hold and making a powerful move to the first crimp and given 8B with this sequence.</p>
<p>Subsequently the beta has improved and now involves guppying the starting right hand hold and using a left heel to make the first move static.</p>
After
<p>Originally climbed by pinching the right hand starting hold and making a powerful move to the first crimp and given 8B with this sequence. Subsequently the beta has improved and now involves guppying the starting right hand hold and using a left heel to make the first move static.</p>
|
|||||||
| 54 | 25th February 2024 | 22:30:47 | remus | - | - | notes | |
|
Before
Originally climbed by pinching the right hand starting hold and making a powerful move to the first crimp and given 8B with this sequence.
Subsequently the beta has improved and now involves guppying the starting right hand hold and using a left heel to make the first move static.
After
Originally climbed by pinching the right hand starting hold and making a powerful move to the first crimp and given 8B with this sequence. Subsequently the beta has improved and now involves guppying the starting right hand hold and using a left heel to make the first move static.
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 55 | 17th January 2024 | 21:17:08 | remus | ascent | Chris Sharma | climber_id | |
|
Before
None
After
493
|
|||||||
| 56 | 17th January 2024 | 21:17:08 | remus | ascent | Chris Sharma | climb_id | |
|
Before
None
After
546
|
|||||||
| 57 | 17th January 2024 | 21:17:08 | remus | ascent | Chris Sharma | ascent_type_id | |
|
Before
None
After
2
|
|||||||
| 58 | 17th January 2024 | 21:17:08 | remus | ascent | Chris Sharma | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
None
After
<p>In June!</p>
|
|||||||
| 59 | 17th January 2024 | 21:17:08 | remus | ascent | Chris Sharma | notes | |
|
Before
None
After
In June!
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 60 | 17th January 2024 | 21:17:08 | remus | ascent | Chris Sharma | ascent_style_id | |
|
Before
None
After
1
|
|||||||