duncan

	Country	Contributions	Between	Climbers	Crags	Climbs	Ascents
1	USA	4908	9th July 2025 – 31st October 2026	94	21	110	306
2	United Kingdom	3680	7th July 2025 – 20th October 2026	157	190	81	256
3	Italy	500	12th July 2025 – 4th October 2026	6	15	14	34
4	Germany	236	11th August 2025 – 16th October 2026	14	8	6	4
5	Australia	219	11th August 2025 – 21st August 2026	7	8	10	9
6	France	209	12th July 2025 – 16th October 2026	12	26	10	5
7	Spain	193	12th July 2025 – 16th October 2026	3	23	8	7
8	Canada	163	11th July 2025 – 6th June 2026	3	3	3	7
9	Switzerland	156	7th July 2025 – 17th October 2026	3	4	4	16
10	New Zealand	146	10th February 2026 – 3rd April 2026	2	2	5	6

	Date	Time	User	Type	Name	Attribute
8881	9th October 2025	11:38:46 UTC	duncan	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes
Before Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert) ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) After Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert) ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,6 +1,8 @@ Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] + > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. + [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)
8882	9th October 2025	11:38:14 UTC	duncan	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes_pretty
Before <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p> After <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. <a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>
8883	9th October 2025	11:38:14 UTC	duncan	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes
Before Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert) ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) After Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert) ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,7 +1,6 @@ Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. - [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)
8884	9th October 2025	11:37:43 UTC	duncan	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes_pretty
Before <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p> </blockquote> <p><a href="climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p> After <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>
8885	9th October 2025	11:37:43 UTC	duncan	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes
Before Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. [TM Herbert](climber/3373/tm-herbert) ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) After Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert) ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) Diff `--- before +++ after @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. -[TM Herbert](climber/3373/tm-herbert) +[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)`
8886	9th October 2025	11:34:49 UTC	duncan	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes_pretty
Before <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p> </blockquote> <p>TM Herbert</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p> After <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p> </blockquote> <p><a href="climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>
8887	9th October 2025	11:34:49 UTC	duncan	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes
Before Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. TM Herbert ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) After Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. [TM Herbert](climber/3373/tm-herbert) ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) Diff `--- before +++ after @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. -TM Herbert +[TM Herbert](climber/3373/tm-herbert)`
8888	9th October 2025	11:31:48 UTC	duncan	climber	TM Herbert	Features In (Youtube Vid)
Before `None` After `https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-UA4QUNRmLI`
8889	9th October 2025	11:26:43 UTC	duncan	climber	TM Herbert	Date of Death
Before `None` After `2024-03-23`
8890	9th October 2025	11:24:25 UTC	duncan	climber	TM Herbert	Contemporary
Before `None` After `871`
8891	9th October 2025	11:23:58 UTC	duncan	climber	TM Herbert	Climbing Partner
Before `None` After `884`
8892	9th October 2025	11:23:32 UTC	duncan	climber	TM Herbert	country_flag
Before `None` After `🇺🇸`
8893	9th October 2025	11:23:32 UTC	duncan	climber	TM Herbert	country_membership
Before `None` After `american`
8894	9th October 2025	11:23:32 UTC	duncan	climber	TM Herbert	country_name
Before `None` After `USA`
8895	9th October 2025	11:23:32 UTC	duncan	climber	TM Herbert	country_id
Before `None` After `2`
8896	9th October 2025	11:23:32 UTC	duncan	climber	TM Herbert	nationality
Before `None` After `US`
8897	9th October 2025	11:23:32 UTC	duncan	climber	TM Herbert	gender
Before `None` After `false`
8898	9th October 2025	11:23:32 UTC	duncan	climber	TM Herbert	climber_name
Before `None` After `TM Herbert`
8899	9th October 2025	11:19:23 UTC	duncan	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes_pretty
Before <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> After <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p> </blockquote> <p>TM Herbert</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>
8900	9th October 2025	11:19:23 UTC	duncan	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes
Before Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. After Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. TM Herbert ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,8 +1,15 @@ Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] + +> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. + +TM Herbert + ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. - + + +[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

Badges

Contributions

Posts

501

589

1227

11842

3

6

Contributions Map

Contributions by Country

Recent Contributions

< Page 445 >