duncan

	Country	Contributions	Between	Climbers	Crags	Climbs	Ascents
1	USA	4458	9th July 2025 – 30th October 2026	84	21	109	286
2	United Kingdom	3680	7th July 2025 – 20th October 2026	157	190	81	256
3	Italy	500	12th July 2025 – 4th October 2026	6	15	14	34
4	Germany	236	11th August 2025 – 16th October 2026	14	8	6	4
5	Australia	219	11th August 2025 – 21st August 2026	7	8	10	9
6	France	209	12th July 2025 – 16th October 2026	12	26	10	5
7	Spain	193	12th July 2025 – 16th October 2026	3	23	8	7
8	Canada	163	11th July 2025 – 6th June 2026	3	3	3	7
9	Switzerland	156	7th July 2025 – 17th October 2026	3	4	4	16
10	New Zealand	146	10th February 2026 – 3rd April 2026	2	2	5	6

	Date	Time	User	Type	Name	Attribute
8381	9th October 2025	11:41:14 UTC	duncan	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes
Before Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) > the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1] [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent: > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) After Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)): > the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1] [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent: > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,4 +1,4 @@ -Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) +Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)): > the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1] [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent:
8382	9th October 2025	11:40:36 UTC	duncan	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes_pretty
Before <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p> After <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) </p> <blockquote> <p>the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a>'s view of the ascent:</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. </p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>
8383	9th October 2025	11:40:36 UTC	duncan	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes
Before Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert) ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) After Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) > the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1] [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent: > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,10 +1,9 @@ -Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] +Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) +> the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1] +[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent: -> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. - -[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert) - +> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. ### References
8384	9th October 2025	11:38:46 UTC	duncan	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes_pretty
Before <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. <a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p> After <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>
8385	9th October 2025	11:38:46 UTC	duncan	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes
Before Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert) ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) After Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert) ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,6 +1,8 @@ Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] + > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. + [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)
8386	9th October 2025	11:38:14 UTC	duncan	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes_pretty
Before <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p> After <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. <a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>
8387	9th October 2025	11:38:14 UTC	duncan	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes
Before Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert) ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) After Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert) ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,7 +1,6 @@ Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. - [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)
8388	9th October 2025	11:37:43 UTC	duncan	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes_pretty
Before <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p> </blockquote> <p><a href="climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p> After <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>
8389	9th October 2025	11:37:43 UTC	duncan	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes
Before Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. [TM Herbert](climber/3373/tm-herbert) ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) After Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert) ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) Diff `--- before +++ after @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. -[TM Herbert](climber/3373/tm-herbert) +[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)`
8390	9th October 2025	11:34:49 UTC	duncan	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes_pretty
Before <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p> </blockquote> <p>TM Herbert</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p> After <p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p> <blockquote> <p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p> </blockquote> <p><a href="climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p> <p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>
8391	9th October 2025	11:34:49 UTC	duncan	ascent	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	notes
Before Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. TM Herbert ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) After Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1] > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. [TM Herbert](climber/3373/tm-herbert) ### References [1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167. [2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light) Diff `--- before +++ after @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. -TM Herbert +[TM Herbert](climber/3373/tm-herbert)`
8392	9th October 2025	11:31:48 UTC	duncan	climber	TM Herbert	Features In (Youtube Vid)
Before `None` After `https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-UA4QUNRmLI`
8393	9th October 2025	11:26:43 UTC	duncan	climber	TM Herbert	Date of Death
Before `None` After `2024-03-23`
8394	9th October 2025	11:24:25 UTC	duncan	climber	TM Herbert	Contemporary
Before `None` After `871`
8395	9th October 2025	11:23:58 UTC	duncan	climber	TM Herbert	Climbing Partner
Before `None` After `884`
8396	9th October 2025	11:23:32 UTC	duncan	climber	TM Herbert	country_flag
Before `None` After `🇺🇸`
8397	9th October 2025	11:23:32 UTC	duncan	climber	TM Herbert	country_membership
Before `None` After `american`
8398	9th October 2025	11:23:32 UTC	duncan	climber	TM Herbert	country_name
Before `None` After `USA`
8399	9th October 2025	11:23:32 UTC	duncan	climber	TM Herbert	country_id
Before `None` After `2`
8400	9th October 2025	11:23:32 UTC	duncan	climber	TM Herbert	nationality
Before `None` After `US`

Before

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) 
> the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]

[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent:

> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. 


### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

After

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)): 
> the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]

[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent:

> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. 


### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@

-Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) 

+Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)): 

 > the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]

 

 [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent:

Before

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

After

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) </p>
<blockquote>
<p>the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a>'s view of the ascent:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. </p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

Before

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]


> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)



### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

After

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) 
> the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]

[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent:

> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. 


### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,10 +1,9 @@

-Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]

+Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) 

+> the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts. [1]

 

+[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)'s view of the ascent:

 

-> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

-

-[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)

-

+> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days [2]. 

 

 

 ### References

Before

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 
<a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

After

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

Before

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]

> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 
[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)



### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

After

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]


> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)



### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,6 +1,8 @@

 Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]

 

+

 > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

+

 [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)

Before

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

After

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 
<a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

Before

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]

> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)



### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

After

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]

> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 
[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)



### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,7 +1,6 @@

 Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]

 

 > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

-

 [TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)

Before

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

After

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

Before

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]

> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

[TM Herbert](climber/3373/tm-herbert)



### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

After

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]

> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)



### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -2,7 +2,7 @@

 

 > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

 

-[TM Herbert](climber/3373/tm-herbert)

+[TM Herbert](/climber/3373/tm-herbert)

Before

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p>
</blockquote>
<p>TM Herbert</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

After

<p>Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to <a href="climber/3372/don-lauria">Lauria</a>) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. </p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="climber/3373/tm-herbert">TM Herbert</a></p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.</p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light">https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light</a></p>

Before

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]

> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

TM Herbert



### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

After

Robbins started the route with the aim of erasing it by chopping the bolts and rivets, considering the 330 holes drilled by the first ascent party to be excessive. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts and rivets because (according to [Lauria](climber/3372/don-lauria)) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]

> What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

[TM Herbert](climber/3373/tm-herbert)



### References

[1] Harding, Warren (1990). Downward Bound: a Mad! guide to Rock Climbing. Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press. pp. 165–167.



[2] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -2,7 +2,7 @@

 

 > What was this most important event I witnessed in February? It was not a climb which raised American climbing standards, but rather it was the elimination of a climb which had lowered the standards. This winter Royal Robbins and Don Lauria chopped the first 300 feet of bolts out of the bolt-ladder route on El Capitan, while completing the second ascent in five-and-a-half days. 

 

-TM Herbert

+[TM Herbert](climber/3373/tm-herbert)

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