TdG

	Country	Contributions	Between	Climbers	Crags	Climbs	Ascents
1	United Kingdom	10121	22nd May 2025 – 27th June 2026	106	13	548	986
2	France	3310	22nd May 2025 – 25th June 2026	30	13	166	318
3	USA	1660	30th July 2025 – 26th June 2026	24	56	156	82
4	Japan	1433	19th July 2025 – 23rd June 2026	14	25	98	70
5	Spain	314	31st July 2025 – 25th June 2026	3	9	33	13
6	New Zealand	214	19th August 2025 – 26th June 2026	1	1	15	13
7	Switzerland	194	31st July 2025 – 26th June 2026	2	5	20	12
8	Canada	146	10th September 2025 – 10th June 2026	1	8	23	2
9	Italy	146	12th August 2025 – 17th May 2026	1	7	16	6
10	Norway	126	6th September 2025 – 16th June 2026	1	4	9	6

	Date	Time	User	Type	Name	Attribute
221	23rd June 2026	14:05:10 UTC	TdG	climb	Walk On By	notes_pretty
Before <p>So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at <a href="/crag/21/curbar-edge" rel="noopener noreferrer">Curbar Edge</a> in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British trad grading, it was given E3 6c.</p> <p>The climb was discovered and named by <a href="/climber/3228/steve-foster" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve Foster</a>, who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist <a href="/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rob Gawthorpe</a> to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:</p> <blockquote> <p>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – <a href="/climber/1011/al-manson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Al Manson</a> and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.</p> <p>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at <a href="/crag/540/caley-crags" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caley</a>, <a href="/crag/373/almscliff" rel="noopener noreferrer">Almscliff</a> and <a href="/crag/34554/hetchell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hetchell</a>. At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.</p> </blockquote> <p>Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] On Peak Rock, 2013</p> After <p>So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at <a href="/crag/21/curbar-edge" rel="noopener noreferrer">Curbar Edge</a> in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British trad grading, it was given E3 6c.</p> <p>The climb was discovered and named by <a href="/climber/3228/steve-foster" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve Foster</a>, who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist <a href="/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rob Gawthorpe</a> to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:</p> <blockquote> <p>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – <a href="/climber/1011/al-manson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Al Manson</a> and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.</p> <p>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at <a href="/crag/540/caley-crags" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caley</a>, <a href="/crag/373/almscliff" rel="noopener noreferrer">Almscliff</a> and <a href="/crag/34554/hetchell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hetchell</a>. At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.</p> </blockquote> <p>It took two decades and the steely fingers of <a href="/climber/130/ben-moon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ben Moon</a> to finally give the climb a second ascent.</p> <p>Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] On Peak Rock, 2013</p>
222	23rd June 2026	14:05:10 UTC	TdG	climb	Walk On By	notes
Before So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British trad grading, it was given E3 6c. The climb was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented: >Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs. >It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder. Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!' ### References [1] On Peak Rock, 2013 After So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British trad grading, it was given E3 6c. The climb was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented: >Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs. >It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder. It took two decades and the steely fingers of [Ben Moon](/climber/130/ben-moon) to finally give the climb a second ascent. Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!' ### References [1] On Peak Rock, 2013 Diff --- before +++ after @@ -6,6 +6,8 @@ >It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder. +It took two decades and the steely fingers of [Ben Moon](/climber/130/ben-moon) to finally give the climb a second ascent. + Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!' ### References
223	23rd June 2026	14:03:16 UTC	TdG	climb	Walk On By	featurable
Before `false` After `true`
224	23rd June 2026	14:02:53 UTC	TdG	climb	Walk On By	notes
Before So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb located in the heart of the Peak District at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) and features ultimate old school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. It was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented: >Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs. >It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder. Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!' ### References [1] On Peak Rock, 2013 After So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British trad grading, it was given E3 6c. The climb was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented: >Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs. >It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder. Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!' ### References [1] On Peak Rock, 2013 Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,6 +1,6 @@ -So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb located in the heart of the Peak District at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) and features ultimate old school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. +So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British trad grading, it was given E3 6c. -It was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented: +The climb was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented: >Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.
225	23rd June 2026	14:02:53 UTC	TdG	climb	Walk On By	notes_pretty
Before <p>So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb located in the heart of the Peak District at <a href="/crag/21/curbar-edge" rel="noopener noreferrer">Curbar Edge</a> and features ultimate old school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. </p> <p>It was discovered and named by <a href="/climber/3228/steve-foster" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve Foster</a>, who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist <a href="/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rob Gawthorpe</a> to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:</p> <blockquote> <p>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – <a href="/climber/1011/al-manson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Al Manson</a> and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.</p> <p>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at <a href="/crag/540/caley-crags" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caley</a>, <a href="/crag/373/almscliff" rel="noopener noreferrer">Almscliff</a> and <a href="/crag/34554/hetchell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hetchell</a>. At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.</p> </blockquote> <p>Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] On Peak Rock, 2013</p> After <p>So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at <a href="/crag/21/curbar-edge" rel="noopener noreferrer">Curbar Edge</a> in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British trad grading, it was given E3 6c.</p> <p>The climb was discovered and named by <a href="/climber/3228/steve-foster" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve Foster</a>, who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist <a href="/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rob Gawthorpe</a> to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:</p> <blockquote> <p>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – <a href="/climber/1011/al-manson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Al Manson</a> and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.</p> <p>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at <a href="/crag/540/caley-crags" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caley</a>, <a href="/crag/373/almscliff" rel="noopener noreferrer">Almscliff</a> and <a href="/crag/34554/hetchell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hetchell</a>. At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.</p> </blockquote> <p>Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] On Peak Rock, 2013</p>
226	23rd June 2026	13:59:36 UTC	TdG	climb	Walk On By	notes
Before One of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. Discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe): >Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs. >It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder. ### References [1] On Peak Rock, 2013 After So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb located in the heart of the Peak District at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) and features ultimate old school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. It was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented: >Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs. >It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder. Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!' ### References [1] On Peak Rock, 2013 Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,11 +1,13 @@ -One of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. Discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. +So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb located in the heart of the Peak District at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) and features ultimate old school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. -[Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe): +It was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented: >Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs. >It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder. +Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!' + ### References [1] On Peak Rock, 2013
227	23rd June 2026	13:59:36 UTC	TdG	climb	Walk On By	notes_pretty
Before <p>One of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. Discovered and named by <a href="/climber/3228/steve-foster" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve Foster</a>, who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start.</p> <p><a href="/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rob Gawthorpe</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – <a href="/climber/1011/al-manson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Al Manson</a> and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.</p> <p>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at <a href="/crag/540/caley-crags" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caley</a>, <a href="/crag/373/almscliff" rel="noopener noreferrer">Almscliff</a> and <a href="/crag/34554/hetchell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hetchell</a>. At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] On Peak Rock, 2013</p> After <p>So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb located in the heart of the Peak District at <a href="/crag/21/curbar-edge" rel="noopener noreferrer">Curbar Edge</a> and features ultimate old school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. </p> <p>It was discovered and named by <a href="/climber/3228/steve-foster" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve Foster</a>, who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist <a href="/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rob Gawthorpe</a> to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:</p> <blockquote> <p>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – <a href="/climber/1011/al-manson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Al Manson</a> and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.</p> <p>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at <a href="/crag/540/caley-crags" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caley</a>, <a href="/crag/373/almscliff" rel="noopener noreferrer">Almscliff</a> and <a href="/crag/34554/hetchell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hetchell</a>. At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.</p> </blockquote> <p>Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] On Peak Rock, 2013</p>
228	23rd June 2026	13:32:39 UTC	TdG	climb	Le Carnage	featurable
Before `false` After `true`
229	23rd June 2026	13:32:01 UTC	TdG	climb	Le Carnage	notes
Before The first 7B in the forest in 1977, holds were manufactured by [Jérôme Jean-Charles](/climber/1599/jérôme-jean-charles), who believed that possibilities for hard climbing had been exhausted and the only way to progress was to add holds to 'unclimbable' rock. Topo Bleau: >But Cuvier is also the massif of all the wrong turns, given how much the rock has been altered. Nowhere else are there so many manufactured holds, so many holds patched with cement. In a way, that was the price of progress. > But let’s not throw our hammers at the heads of those who came before. In the spirit of the time, they weren’t violating any ethical principle, because it hadn’t yet been recognised that chipping actually limits the standard. In other words, it unconsciously avoided engaging with the rock itself. It took 17 years to go from 7a to 7b, and only 7 years from 7b to 8a. [1] In 2001 the problem was vandalised by a disgruntled local climber, who attempted to chip off the starting hold, making the problem harder. (2) ### References [1] [https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0](https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0) [2] On The Edge issue 110, page 10 After The first 7B in Fontainebleau. Climbed in 1977, key holds were manufactured by [Jérôme Jean-Charles](/climber/1599/jérôme-jean-charles), who believed that the possibilities for hard climbing on natural rock had been exhausted and the only way to progress would be to add holds to 'unclimbable' rock. Topo Bleau summarises the paradox: >But Cuvier is also the massif of all the wrong turns, given how much the rock has been altered. Nowhere else are there so many manufactured holds, so many holds patched with cement. In a way, that was the price of progress. > But let’s not throw our hammers at the heads of those who came before. In the spirit of the time, they weren’t violating any ethical principle, because it hadn’t yet been recognised that chipping actually limits the standard. In other words, it unconsciously avoided engaging with the rock itself. It took 17 years to go from 7a to 7b, and only 7 years from 7b to 8a. [1] In 2001 the problem was vandalised by a disgruntled local climber, who attempted to chip off the starting hold, making the problem harder. (2) Despite its manufactured nature, the problem is one of the most popular in Fontainebleau and a milestone for any aspiring Bleausard. ### References [1] [https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0](https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0) [2] On The Edge issue 110, page 10 Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,6 +1,6 @@ -The first 7B in the forest in 1977, holds were manufactured by [Jérôme Jean-Charles](/climber/1599/jérôme-jean-charles), who believed that possibilities for hard climbing had been exhausted and the only way to progress was to add holds to 'unclimbable' rock. +The first 7B in Fontainebleau. Climbed in 1977, key holds were manufactured by [Jérôme Jean-Charles](/climber/1599/jérôme-jean-charles), who believed that the possibilities for hard climbing on natural rock had been exhausted and the only way to progress would be to add holds to 'unclimbable' rock. -Topo Bleau: +Topo Bleau summarises the paradox: >But Cuvier is also the massif of all the wrong turns, given how much the rock has been altered. Nowhere else are there so many manufactured holds, so many holds patched with cement. In a way, that was the price of progress. @@ -8,6 +8,8 @@ In 2001 the problem was vandalised by a disgruntled local climber, who attempted to chip off the starting hold, making the problem harder. (2) +Despite its manufactured nature, the problem is one of the most popular in Fontainebleau and a milestone for any aspiring Bleausard. + ### References [1] [https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0](https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0)
230	23rd June 2026	13:32:01 UTC	TdG	climb	Le Carnage	notes_pretty
Before <p>The first 7B in the forest in 1977, holds were manufactured by <a href="/climber/1599/jérôme-jean-charles" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jérôme Jean-Charles</a>, who believed that possibilities for hard climbing had been exhausted and the only way to progress was to add holds to 'unclimbable' rock.</p> <p>Topo Bleau:</p> <blockquote> <p>But Cuvier is also the massif of all the wrong turns, given how much the rock has been altered. Nowhere else are there so many manufactured holds, so many holds patched with cement. In a way, that was the price of progress.</p> <p>But let’s not throw our hammers at the heads of those who came before. In the spirit of the time, they weren’t violating any ethical principle, because it hadn’t yet been recognised that chipping actually limits the standard. In other words, it unconsciously avoided engaging with the rock itself. It took 17 years to go from 7a to 7b, and only 7 years from 7b to 8a. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>In 2001 the problem was vandalised by a disgruntled local climber, who attempted to chip off the starting hold, making the problem harder. (2)</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0</a></p> <p>[2] <em>On The Edge</em> issue 110, page 10</p> After <p>The first 7B in Fontainebleau. Climbed in 1977, key holds were manufactured by <a href="/climber/1599/jérôme-jean-charles" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jérôme Jean-Charles</a>, who believed that the possibilities for hard climbing on natural rock had been exhausted and the only way to progress would be to add holds to 'unclimbable' rock.</p> <p>Topo Bleau summarises the paradox:</p> <blockquote> <p>But Cuvier is also the massif of all the wrong turns, given how much the rock has been altered. Nowhere else are there so many manufactured holds, so many holds patched with cement. In a way, that was the price of progress.</p> <p>But let’s not throw our hammers at the heads of those who came before. In the spirit of the time, they weren’t violating any ethical principle, because it hadn’t yet been recognised that chipping actually limits the standard. In other words, it unconsciously avoided engaging with the rock itself. It took 17 years to go from 7a to 7b, and only 7 years from 7b to 8a. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>In 2001 the problem was vandalised by a disgruntled local climber, who attempted to chip off the starting hold, making the problem harder. (2)</p> <p>Despite its manufactured nature, the problem is one of the most popular in Fontainebleau and a milestone for any aspiring Bleausard. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0</a></p> <p>[2] <em>On The Edge</em> issue 110, page 10</p>
231	23rd June 2026	12:48:35 UTC	TdG	ascent	Dave MacLeod's ascent of Rhapsody	notes_pretty
Before `<h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198</a></p>` After <p>Dave chose to belay from the half-height ledge in order to carry less rope up with him. This made for a harder catch than subsequent ascents, who have all belayed from the ground, including a fall which snapped the crucial top RP. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198</a></p>
232	23rd June 2026	12:48:35 UTC	TdG	ascent	Dave MacLeod's ascent of Rhapsody	notes
Before `### References [1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8) [2] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198)` After Dave chose to belay from the half-height ledge in order to carry less rope up with him. This made for a harder catch than subsequent ascents, who have all belayed from the ground, including a fall which snapped the crucial top RP. ### References [1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8) [2] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198) Diff `--- before +++ after @@ -1,3 +1,5 @@ +Dave chose to belay from the half-height ledge in order to carry less rope up with him. This made for a harder catch than subsequent ascents, who have all belayed from the ground, including a fall which snapped the crucial top RP. + ### References [1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8)`
233	23rd June 2026	12:45:47 UTC	TdG	climb	Rhapsody	featurable
Before `false` After `true`
234	23rd June 2026	12:44:37 UTC	TdG	climb	Rhapsody	notes
Before Rhapsody is a trad route at [Dumbarton Rock](/crag/189/dumbarton-rock) in Scotland first climbed by [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) in 2006. It was one of the hardest trad routes in the world at the time and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring hard, intense climbing with the potential for huge falls. The climb starts by climbing the majority of [Requiem](/climb/505/requiem) (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up the headwall above. The line is somewhat eliminate at the top, forcing a line of maximum difficulty to the very top of the crag rather than reaching out to an arête. [2] Around the time he made the second ascent [Sonnie Trotter](/climber/617/sonnie-trotter) also added a variation called [Direquiem](/climb/1322/direquiem) which takes the headwall but finishes left rather than going to the highest point of the crag. ### References [1] [E11](/library/287/e11) 2006 film by [Paul Diffley](/climber/1740/paul-diffley) [2] [https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html](https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html) After Rhapsody is a trad route at [Dumbarton Rock](/crag/189/dumbarton-rock) in Scotland first climbed by [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) in 2006. It was the hardest trad route in the world at the time and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring 8c+ climbing, and potential for huge falls onto tiny gear from the 8A crux at the top of the route. The route starts by climbing the majority of [Requiem](/climb/505/requiem) (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up the headwall above. The line is somewhat eliminate at the top, forcing a line of maximum difficulty to the very top of the crag rather than reaching out to an arête. [2] The route has become a test piece for sport climbers who want to test their mettle, with repeats coming from an international cohort. Around the time that he made the second ascent, [Sonnie Trotter](/climber/617/sonnie-trotter) also added a variation called [Direquiem](/climb/1322/direquiem) which takes the headwall but finishes left, rather than going to the highest point of the crag. ### References [1] [E11](/library/287/e11) 2006 film by [Paul Diffley](/climber/1740/paul-diffley) [2] [https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html](https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,8 +1,10 @@ -Rhapsody is a trad route at [Dumbarton Rock](/crag/189/dumbarton-rock) in Scotland first climbed by [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) in 2006. It was one of the hardest trad routes in the world at the time and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring hard, intense climbing with the potential for huge falls. +Rhapsody is a trad route at [Dumbarton Rock](/crag/189/dumbarton-rock) in Scotland first climbed by [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) in 2006. It was the hardest trad route in the world at the time and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring 8c+ climbing, and potential for huge falls onto tiny gear from the 8A crux at the top of the route. -The climb starts by climbing the majority of [Requiem](/climb/505/requiem) (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up the headwall above. The line is somewhat eliminate at the top, forcing a line of maximum difficulty to the very top of the crag rather than reaching out to an arête. [2] +The route starts by climbing the majority of [Requiem](/climb/505/requiem) (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up the headwall above. The line is somewhat eliminate at the top, forcing a line of maximum difficulty to the very top of the crag rather than reaching out to an arête. [2] -Around the time he made the second ascent [Sonnie Trotter](/climber/617/sonnie-trotter) also added a variation called [Direquiem](/climb/1322/direquiem) which takes the headwall but finishes left rather than going to the highest point of the crag. +The route has become a test piece for sport climbers who want to test their mettle, with repeats coming from an international cohort. + +Around the time that he made the second ascent, [Sonnie Trotter](/climber/617/sonnie-trotter) also added a variation called [Direquiem](/climb/1322/direquiem) which takes the headwall but finishes left, rather than going to the highest point of the crag. ### References
235	23rd June 2026	12:44:37 UTC	TdG	climb	Rhapsody	notes_pretty
Before <p>Rhapsody is a trad route at <a href="/crag/189/dumbarton-rock">Dumbarton Rock</a> in Scotland first climbed by <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod">Dave MacLeod</a> in 2006. It was one of the hardest trad routes in the world at the time and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring hard, intense climbing with the potential for huge falls.</p> <p>The climb starts by climbing the majority of <a href="/climb/505/requiem">Requiem</a> (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up the headwall above. The line is somewhat eliminate at the top, forcing a line of maximum difficulty to the very top of the crag rather than reaching out to an arête. [2]</p> <p>Around the time he made the second ascent <a href="/climber/617/sonnie-trotter">Sonnie Trotter</a> also added a variation called <a href="/climb/1322/direquiem">Direquiem</a> which takes the headwall but finishes left rather than going to the highest point of the crag.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/library/287/e11">E11</a> 2006 film by <a href="/climber/1740/paul-diffley">Paul Diffley</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html">https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html</a></p> After <p>Rhapsody is a trad route at <a href="/crag/189/dumbarton-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dumbarton Rock</a> in Scotland first climbed by <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> in 2006. It was the hardest trad route in the world at the time and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring 8c+ climbing, and potential for huge falls onto tiny gear from the 8A crux at the top of the route. </p> <p>The route starts by climbing the majority of <a href="/climb/505/requiem" rel="noopener noreferrer">Requiem</a> (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up the headwall above. The line is somewhat eliminate at the top, forcing a line of maximum difficulty to the very top of the crag rather than reaching out to an arête. [2]</p> <p>The route has become a test piece for sport climbers who want to test their mettle, with repeats coming from an international cohort. </p> <p>Around the time that he made the second ascent, <a href="/climber/617/sonnie-trotter" rel="noopener noreferrer">Sonnie Trotter</a> also added a variation called <a href="/climb/1322/direquiem" rel="noopener noreferrer">Direquiem</a> which takes the headwall but finishes left, rather than going to the highest point of the crag.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/library/287/e11" rel="noopener noreferrer">E11</a> 2006 film by <a href="/climber/1740/paul-diffley" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Diffley</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html</a></p>
236	23rd June 2026	09:29:37 UTC	TdG	climber	James Pearson	notes_pretty
Before <p>Few climbers have experienced both the highs and lows of elite climbing as publicly as James Pearson.</p> <p>As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as <a href="/climb/606/equilibrium" rel="noopener noreferrer">Equilibrium</a> (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of <a href="/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door" rel="noopener noreferrer">Knockin' on Heaven's Door</a>. </p> <p>He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably <a href="/climb/664/the-groove" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Groove</a> (E9) at <a href="/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Cratcliffe Tor</a>, a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. </p> <p>In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established <a href="/climb/581/the-walk-of-life" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Walk of Life</a> at <a href="/crag/674/dyers-lookout" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dyers Lookout</a> and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities.</p> <p>Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star <a href="/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caroline Ciavaldini</a>, who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. </p> <p>In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, <a href="/climb/58/esclatamàsters" rel="noopener noreferrer">Esclatamàsters</a>. On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed <a href="/climb/602/something's-burning" rel="noopener noreferrer">Something's Burning</a> (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated <a href="/climb/582/rhapsody" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rhapsody</a> (E11) – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb.</p> <p>He made the second ascent of trad super-route <a href="/climb/653/tribe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tribe</a> (E11) in 2020, repeated <a href="/climb/1439/lexicon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lexicon</a> (E11) with frighteningly little preparation 2022, and made the long-awaited second ascent of the near-mythical <a href="/climb/554/echo-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Echo Wall</a> (E11) in 2024.</p> <p>Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route <a href="/climb/2388/bon-voyage" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bon Voyage</a>, climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route <a href="/climb/840/le-voyage" rel="noopener noreferrer">Le Voyage</a> (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing.</p> <p>As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range <a href="/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ganymede Takeover</a>, <a href="/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Great Shark Hunt</a> and <a href="/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens" rel="noopener noreferrer">Schule des Lebens</a>. At the time, each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world, though the problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class <a href="/climb/1905/mystic-river" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mystic River</a> (8C) and <a href="/climb/106/the-finnish-line" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Finnish Line</a> (8C).</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4" rel="noopener noreferrer">Interview with Tom Randall</a></p> <p>[2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html</a></p> After <p>Few climbers have experienced both the highs and lows of elite climbing as publicly as James Pearson.</p> <p>As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as <a href="/climb/606/equilibrium" rel="noopener noreferrer">Equilibrium</a> (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of <a href="/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door" rel="noopener noreferrer">Knockin' on Heaven's Door</a>. </p> <p>He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably <a href="/climb/664/the-groove" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Groove</a> (E9) at <a href="/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Cratcliffe Tor</a>, a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. </p> <p>In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established <a href="/climb/581/the-walk-of-life" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Walk of Life</a> at <a href="/crag/674/dyers-lookout" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dyers Lookout</a> and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities.</p> <p>Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star <a href="/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caroline Ciavaldini</a>, who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes. </p> <p>In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, <a href="/climb/58/esclatamàsters" rel="noopener noreferrer">Esclatamàsters</a>. On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed <a href="/climb/602/something's-burning" rel="noopener noreferrer">Something's Burning</a> (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated <a href="/climb/582/rhapsody" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rhapsody</a> (E11) – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb.</p> <p>He made the second ascent of trad super-route <a href="/climb/653/tribe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tribe</a> (E11) in 2020, repeated <a href="/climb/1439/lexicon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lexicon</a> (E11) with frighteningly little preparation 2022, and made the long-awaited second ascent of the near-mythical <a href="/climb/554/echo-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Echo Wall</a> (E11) in 2024.</p> <p>Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route <a href="/climb/2388/bon-voyage" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bon Voyage</a>, climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route <a href="/climb/840/le-voyage" rel="noopener noreferrer">Le Voyage</a> (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing.</p> <p>As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range <a href="/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ganymede Takeover</a>, <a href="/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Great Shark Hunt</a> and <a href="/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens" rel="noopener noreferrer">Schule des Lebens</a>. At the time, each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world, though the problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class <a href="/climb/1905/mystic-river" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mystic River</a> (8C) and <a href="/climb/106/the-finnish-line" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Finnish Line</a> (8C).</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4" rel="noopener noreferrer">Interview with Tom Randall</a></p> <p>[2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html</a></p>
237	23rd June 2026	09:29:37 UTC	TdG	climber	James Pearson	notes
Before Few climbers have experienced both the highs and lows of elite climbing as publicly as James Pearson. As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as [Equilibrium](/climb/606/equilibrium) (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of [Knockin' on Heaven's Door](/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door). He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably [The Groove](/climb/664/the-groove) (E9) at [Cratcliffe Tor](/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor), a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established [The Walk of Life](/climb/581/the-walk-of-life) at [Dyers Lookout](/crag/674/dyers-lookout) and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities. Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini), who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, [Esclatamàsters](/climb/58/esclatamàsters). On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed [Something's Burning](/climb/602/something's-burning) (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated [Rhapsody](/climb/582/rhapsody) (E11) – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb. He made the second ascent of trad super-route [Tribe](/climb/653/tribe) (E11) in 2020, repeated [Lexicon](/climb/1439/lexicon) (E11) with frighteningly little preparation 2022, and made the long-awaited second ascent of the near-mythical [Echo Wall](/climb/554/echo-wall) (E11) in 2024. Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route [Bon Voyage](/climb/2388/bon-voyage), climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route [Le Voyage](/climb/840/le-voyage) (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing. As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range [Ganymede Takeover](/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover), [The Great Shark Hunt](/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt) and [Schule des Lebens](/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens). At the time, each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world, though the problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class [Mystic River](/climb/1905/mystic-river) (8C) and [The Finnish Line](/climb/106/the-finnish-line) (8C). ### References [1] [Interview with Tom Randall](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4) [2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html) After Few climbers have experienced both the highs and lows of elite climbing as publicly as James Pearson. As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as [Equilibrium](/climb/606/equilibrium) (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of [Knockin' on Heaven's Door](/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door). He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably [The Groove](/climb/664/the-groove) (E9) at [Cratcliffe Tor](/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor), a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established [The Walk of Life](/climb/581/the-walk-of-life) at [Dyers Lookout](/crag/674/dyers-lookout) and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities. Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini), who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes. In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, [Esclatamàsters](/climb/58/esclatamàsters). On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed [Something's Burning](/climb/602/something's-burning) (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated [Rhapsody](/climb/582/rhapsody) (E11) – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb. He made the second ascent of trad super-route [Tribe](/climb/653/tribe) (E11) in 2020, repeated [Lexicon](/climb/1439/lexicon) (E11) with frighteningly little preparation 2022, and made the long-awaited second ascent of the near-mythical [Echo Wall](/climb/554/echo-wall) (E11) in 2024. Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route [Bon Voyage](/climb/2388/bon-voyage), climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route [Le Voyage](/climb/840/le-voyage) (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing. As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range [Ganymede Takeover](/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover), [The Great Shark Hunt](/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt) and [Schule des Lebens](/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens). At the time, each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world, though the problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class [Mystic River](/climb/1905/mystic-river) (8C) and [The Finnish Line](/climb/106/the-finnish-line) (8C). ### References [1] [Interview with Tom Randall](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4) [2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -6,7 +6,7 @@ In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established [The Walk of Life](/climb/581/the-walk-of-life) at [Dyers Lookout](/crag/674/dyers-lookout) and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities. -Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini), who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. +Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini), who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes. In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, [Esclatamàsters](/climb/58/esclatamàsters). On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed [Something's Burning](/climb/602/something's-burning) (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated [Rhapsody](/climb/582/rhapsody) (E11) – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb.
238	23rd June 2026	08:54:59 UTC	TdG	climber	James Pearson	notes
Before Few climbers have experienced both the highs and lows of elite climbing as publicly as James Pearson. As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as [Equilibrium](/climb/606/equilibrium) (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of [Knockin' on Heaven's Door](/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door). He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably [The Groove](/climb/664/the-groove) (E9) at [Cratcliffe Tor](/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor), a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range [Ganymede Takeover](/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover), [The Great Shark Hunt](/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt) and [Schule des Lebens](/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens). At the time each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world at the time, though these problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class [Mystic River](/climb/1905/mystic-river) (8C) and [The Finnish Line](/climb/106/the-finnish-line) (8C). In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established [The Walk of Life](/climb/581/the-walk-of-life) at [Dyers Lookout](/crag/674/dyers-lookout) and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities. Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini), who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, [Esclatamàsters](/climb/58/esclatamàsters). On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed [Something's Burning](/climb/602/something's-burning) (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated [Rhapsody](/climb/582/rhapsody) (E11) – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb. He made the second ascent of trad super-route [Tribe](/climb/653/tribe) (E11) in 2020, repeated [Lexicon](/climb/1439/lexicon) (E11) with frighteningly little preparation 2022, and made the long-awaited second ascent of the near-mythical [Echo Wall](/climb/554/echo-wall) (E11) in 2024. Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route [Bon Voyage](/climb/2388/bon-voyage), climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route [Le Voyage](/climb/840/le-voyage) (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing. ### References [1] [Interview with Tom Randall](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4) [2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html) After Few climbers have experienced both the highs and lows of elite climbing as publicly as James Pearson. As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as [Equilibrium](/climb/606/equilibrium) (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of [Knockin' on Heaven's Door](/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door). He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably [The Groove](/climb/664/the-groove) (E9) at [Cratcliffe Tor](/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor), a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established [The Walk of Life](/climb/581/the-walk-of-life) at [Dyers Lookout](/crag/674/dyers-lookout) and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities. Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini), who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, [Esclatamàsters](/climb/58/esclatamàsters). On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed [Something's Burning](/climb/602/something's-burning) (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated [Rhapsody](/climb/582/rhapsody) (E11) – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb. He made the second ascent of trad super-route [Tribe](/climb/653/tribe) (E11) in 2020, repeated [Lexicon](/climb/1439/lexicon) (E11) with frighteningly little preparation 2022, and made the long-awaited second ascent of the near-mythical [Echo Wall](/climb/554/echo-wall) (E11) in 2024. Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route [Bon Voyage](/climb/2388/bon-voyage), climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route [Le Voyage](/climb/840/le-voyage) (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing. As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range [Ganymede Takeover](/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover), [The Great Shark Hunt](/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt) and [Schule des Lebens](/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens). At the time, each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world, though the problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class [Mystic River](/climb/1905/mystic-river) (8C) and [The Finnish Line](/climb/106/the-finnish-line) (8C). ### References [1] [Interview with Tom Randall](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4) [2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -3,8 +3,6 @@ As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as [Equilibrium](/climb/606/equilibrium) (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of [Knockin' on Heaven's Door](/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door). He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably [The Groove](/climb/664/the-groove) (E9) at [Cratcliffe Tor](/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor), a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. - -As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range [Ganymede Takeover](/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover), [The Great Shark Hunt](/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt) and [Schule des Lebens](/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens). At the time each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world at the time, though these problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class [Mystic River](/climb/1905/mystic-river) (8C) and [The Finnish Line](/climb/106/the-finnish-line) (8C). In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established [The Walk of Life](/climb/581/the-walk-of-life) at [Dyers Lookout](/crag/674/dyers-lookout) and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities. @@ -16,6 +14,8 @@ Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route [Bon Voyage](/climb/2388/bon-voyage), climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route [Le Voyage](/climb/840/le-voyage) (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing. +As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range [Ganymede Takeover](/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover), [The Great Shark Hunt](/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt) and [Schule des Lebens](/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens). At the time, each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world, though the problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class [Mystic River](/climb/1905/mystic-river) (8C) and [The Finnish Line](/climb/106/the-finnish-line) (8C). + ### References [1] [Interview with Tom Randall](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4)
239	23rd June 2026	08:54:59 UTC	TdG	climber	James Pearson	notes_pretty
Before <p>Few climbers have experienced both the highs and lows of elite climbing as publicly as James Pearson.</p> <p>As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as <a href="/climb/606/equilibrium" rel="noopener noreferrer">Equilibrium</a> (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of <a href="/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door" rel="noopener noreferrer">Knockin' on Heaven's Door</a>. </p> <p>He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably <a href="/climb/664/the-groove" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Groove</a> (E9) at <a href="/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Cratcliffe Tor</a>, a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. </p> <p>As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range <a href="/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ganymede Takeover</a>, <a href="/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Great Shark Hunt</a> and <a href="/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens" rel="noopener noreferrer">Schule des Lebens</a>. At the time each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world at the time, though these problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class <a href="/climb/1905/mystic-river" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mystic River</a> (8C) and <a href="/climb/106/the-finnish-line" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Finnish Line</a> (8C).</p> <p>In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established <a href="/climb/581/the-walk-of-life" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Walk of Life</a> at <a href="/crag/674/dyers-lookout" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dyers Lookout</a> and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities.</p> <p>Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star <a href="/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caroline Ciavaldini</a>, who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. </p> <p>In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, <a href="/climb/58/esclatamàsters" rel="noopener noreferrer">Esclatamàsters</a>. On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed <a href="/climb/602/something's-burning" rel="noopener noreferrer">Something's Burning</a> (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated <a href="/climb/582/rhapsody" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rhapsody</a> (E11) – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb.</p> <p>He made the second ascent of trad super-route <a href="/climb/653/tribe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tribe</a> (E11) in 2020, repeated <a href="/climb/1439/lexicon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lexicon</a> (E11) with frighteningly little preparation 2022, and made the long-awaited second ascent of the near-mythical <a href="/climb/554/echo-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Echo Wall</a> (E11) in 2024.</p> <p>Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route <a href="/climb/2388/bon-voyage" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bon Voyage</a>, climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route <a href="/climb/840/le-voyage" rel="noopener noreferrer">Le Voyage</a> (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4" rel="noopener noreferrer">Interview with Tom Randall</a></p> <p>[2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html</a></p> After <p>Few climbers have experienced both the highs and lows of elite climbing as publicly as James Pearson.</p> <p>As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as <a href="/climb/606/equilibrium" rel="noopener noreferrer">Equilibrium</a> (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of <a href="/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door" rel="noopener noreferrer">Knockin' on Heaven's Door</a>. </p> <p>He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably <a href="/climb/664/the-groove" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Groove</a> (E9) at <a href="/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Cratcliffe Tor</a>, a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. </p> <p>In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established <a href="/climb/581/the-walk-of-life" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Walk of Life</a> at <a href="/crag/674/dyers-lookout" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dyers Lookout</a> and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities.</p> <p>Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star <a href="/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caroline Ciavaldini</a>, who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. </p> <p>In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, <a href="/climb/58/esclatamàsters" rel="noopener noreferrer">Esclatamàsters</a>. On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed <a href="/climb/602/something's-burning" rel="noopener noreferrer">Something's Burning</a> (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated <a href="/climb/582/rhapsody" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rhapsody</a> (E11) – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb.</p> <p>He made the second ascent of trad super-route <a href="/climb/653/tribe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tribe</a> (E11) in 2020, repeated <a href="/climb/1439/lexicon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lexicon</a> (E11) with frighteningly little preparation 2022, and made the long-awaited second ascent of the near-mythical <a href="/climb/554/echo-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Echo Wall</a> (E11) in 2024.</p> <p>Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route <a href="/climb/2388/bon-voyage" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bon Voyage</a>, climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route <a href="/climb/840/le-voyage" rel="noopener noreferrer">Le Voyage</a> (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing.</p> <p>As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range <a href="/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ganymede Takeover</a>, <a href="/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Great Shark Hunt</a> and <a href="/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens" rel="noopener noreferrer">Schule des Lebens</a>. At the time, each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world, though the problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class <a href="/climb/1905/mystic-river" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mystic River</a> (8C) and <a href="/climb/106/the-finnish-line" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Finnish Line</a> (8C).</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4" rel="noopener noreferrer">Interview with Tom Randall</a></p> <p>[2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html</a></p>
240	23rd June 2026	08:53:18 UTC	TdG	climber	James Pearson	notes
Before James pearson is an all round climber from the peak district in the UK. Growing up, James established himself with fast repeats of many hard and scary gritstone routes such as [Equilibrium](/climb/606/equilibrium), at the time one of the hardest gritstone routes around, as well as putting up hard routes of his own such as [The Promise](/climb/704/the-promise) at [Burbage North](/crag/88/burbage-north). As well as climbing hard trad James also repeated many hard boulder problems. Most notably in 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range [Ganymede Takeover](/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover), [The Great Shark Hunt](/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt) and [Schule des Lebens](/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens). At the time each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world at the time though these problems have subsequently been downgraded. In 2008 James courted controversy when he established [The Walk of Life](/climb/581/the-walk-of-life) at [Dyers Lookout](/crag/674/dyers-lookout) and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was harder than any other route in the UK at the time. The route is now considered E9, and on reflection James has admitted the route was not in his style which is why it felt as hard as it did for him. After the controversy around The Walk of Life James moved to Europe and spent a lot of time becoming a more well rounded climber. Around the same time he met his now-wife [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini). Putting his training to good use James has now repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. Notable ascents include many hard onsight and flashes in Pembroke in South Wales, a repeat of [Dave MacLeod's](/climber/146/dave-macleod) [Rhapsody](/climb/582/rhapsody) at [Dumbarton Rock](/crag/189/dumbarton-rock), [Jacopo Larcher's](/climber/590/jacopo-larcher) [Tribe](/climb/653/tribe) and the first ascent of [Le Voyage](/climb/840/le-voyage). In 2023 James once again suggested E12 for [Bon Voyage](/climb/2388/bon-voyage), it has held this grade after a handful of repeats. ### References [1] [Interview with Tom Randall](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4) [2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html) After Few climbers have experienced both the highs and lows of elite climbing as publicly as James Pearson. As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as [Equilibrium](/climb/606/equilibrium) (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of [Knockin' on Heaven's Door](/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door). He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably [The Groove](/climb/664/the-groove) (E9) at [Cratcliffe Tor](/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor), a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range [Ganymede Takeover](/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover), [The Great Shark Hunt](/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt) and [Schule des Lebens](/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens). At the time each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world at the time, though these problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class [Mystic River](/climb/1905/mystic-river) (8C) and [The Finnish Line](/climb/106/the-finnish-line) (8C). In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established [The Walk of Life](/climb/581/the-walk-of-life) at [Dyers Lookout](/crag/674/dyers-lookout) and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities. Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini), who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, [Esclatamàsters](/climb/58/esclatamàsters). On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed [Something's Burning](/climb/602/something's-burning) (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated [Rhapsody](/climb/582/rhapsody) (E11) – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb. He made the second ascent of trad super-route [Tribe](/climb/653/tribe) (E11) in 2020, repeated [Lexicon](/climb/1439/lexicon) (E11) with frighteningly little preparation 2022, and made the long-awaited second ascent of the near-mythical [Echo Wall](/climb/554/echo-wall) (E11) in 2024. Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route [Bon Voyage](/climb/2388/bon-voyage), climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route [Le Voyage](/climb/840/le-voyage) (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing. ### References [1] [Interview with Tom Randall](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4) [2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,14 +1,20 @@ -James pearson is an all round climber from the peak district in the UK. +Few climbers have experienced both the highs and lows of elite climbing as publicly as James Pearson. -Growing up, James established himself with fast repeats of many hard and scary gritstone routes such as [Equilibrium](/climb/606/equilibrium), at the time one of the hardest gritstone routes around, as well as putting up hard routes of his own such as [The Promise](/climb/704/the-promise) at [Burbage North](/crag/88/burbage-north). +As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as [Equilibrium](/climb/606/equilibrium) (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of [Knockin' on Heaven's Door](/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door). -As well as climbing hard trad James also repeated many hard boulder problems. Most notably in 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range [Ganymede Takeover](/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover), [The Great Shark Hunt](/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt) and [Schule des Lebens](/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens). At the time each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world at the time though these problems have subsequently been downgraded. +He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably [The Groove](/climb/664/the-groove) (E9) at [Cratcliffe Tor](/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor), a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. -In 2008 James courted controversy when he established [The Walk of Life](/climb/581/the-walk-of-life) at [Dyers Lookout](/crag/674/dyers-lookout) and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was harder than any other route in the UK at the time. The route is now considered E9, and on reflection James has admitted the route was not in his style which is why it felt as hard as it did for him. +As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range [Ganymede Takeover](/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover), [The Great Shark Hunt](/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt) and [Schule des Lebens](/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens). At the time each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world at the time, though these problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class [Mystic River](/climb/1905/mystic-river) (8C) and [The Finnish Line](/climb/106/the-finnish-line) (8C). -After the controversy around The Walk of Life James moved to Europe and spent a lot of time becoming a more well rounded climber. Around the same time he met his now-wife [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini). Putting his training to good use James has now repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. Notable ascents include many hard onsight and flashes in Pembroke in South Wales, a repeat of [Dave MacLeod's](/climber/146/dave-macleod) [Rhapsody](/climb/582/rhapsody) at [Dumbarton Rock](/crag/189/dumbarton-rock), [Jacopo Larcher's](/climber/590/jacopo-larcher) [Tribe](/climb/653/tribe) and the first ascent of [Le Voyage](/climb/840/le-voyage). +In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established [The Walk of Life](/climb/581/the-walk-of-life) at [Dyers Lookout](/crag/674/dyers-lookout) and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities. -In 2023 James once again suggested E12 for [Bon Voyage](/climb/2388/bon-voyage), it has held this grade after a handful of repeats. +Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini), who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. + +In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, [Esclatamàsters](/climb/58/esclatamàsters). On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed [Something's Burning](/climb/602/something's-burning) (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated [Rhapsody](/climb/582/rhapsody) (E11) – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb. + +He made the second ascent of trad super-route [Tribe](/climb/653/tribe) (E11) in 2020, repeated [Lexicon](/climb/1439/lexicon) (E11) with frighteningly little preparation 2022, and made the long-awaited second ascent of the near-mythical [Echo Wall](/climb/554/echo-wall) (E11) in 2024. + +Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route [Bon Voyage](/climb/2388/bon-voyage), climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route [Le Voyage](/climb/840/le-voyage) (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing. ### References

Before

<p>So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at <a href="/crag/21/curbar-edge" rel="noopener noreferrer">Curbar Edge</a> in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British trad grading, it was given E3 6c.</p>
<p>The climb was discovered and named by <a href="/climber/3228/steve-foster" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve Foster</a>, who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist <a href="/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rob Gawthorpe</a> to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – <a href="/climber/1011/al-manson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Al Manson</a> and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.</p>
<p>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at <a href="/crag/540/caley-crags" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caley</a>, <a href="/crag/373/almscliff" rel="noopener noreferrer">Almscliff</a> and <a href="/crag/34554/hetchell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hetchell</a>. At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] On Peak Rock, 2013</p>

After

<p>So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at <a href="/crag/21/curbar-edge" rel="noopener noreferrer">Curbar Edge</a> in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British trad grading, it was given E3 6c.</p>
<p>The climb was discovered and named by <a href="/climber/3228/steve-foster" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve Foster</a>, who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist <a href="/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rob Gawthorpe</a> to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – <a href="/climber/1011/al-manson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Al Manson</a> and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.</p>
<p>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at <a href="/crag/540/caley-crags" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caley</a>, <a href="/crag/373/almscliff" rel="noopener noreferrer">Almscliff</a> and <a href="/crag/34554/hetchell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hetchell</a>. At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>It took two decades and the steely fingers of <a href="/climber/130/ben-moon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ben Moon</a> to finally give the climb a second ascent.</p>
<p>Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] On Peak Rock, 2013</p>

Before

So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British trad grading, it was given E3 6c.

The climb was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:

>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.

>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.

Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'

### References

[1] On Peak Rock, 2013

After

So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British trad grading, it was given E3 6c.

The climb was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:

>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.

>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.

It took two decades and the steely fingers of [Ben Moon](/climber/130/ben-moon) to finally give the climb a second ascent.

Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'

### References

[1] On Peak Rock, 2013

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -6,6 +6,8 @@

 

 >It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.

 

+It took two decades and the steely fingers of [Ben Moon](/climber/130/ben-moon) to finally give the climb a second ascent.

+

 Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'

 

 ### References

Before

false

After

true

Before

So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb located in the heart of the Peak District at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) and features ultimate old school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. 

It was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:

>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.

>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.

Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'

### References

[1] On Peak Rock, 2013

After

So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British trad grading, it was given E3 6c.

The climb was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:

>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.

>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.

Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'

### References

[1] On Peak Rock, 2013

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,6 +1,6 @@

-So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb located in the heart of the Peak District at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) and features ultimate old school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. 

+So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British trad grading, it was given E3 6c.

 

-It was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:

+The climb was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:

 

 >Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.

Before

<p>So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb located in the heart of the Peak District at <a href="/crag/21/curbar-edge" rel="noopener noreferrer">Curbar Edge</a> and features ultimate old school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. </p>
<p>It was discovered and named by <a href="/climber/3228/steve-foster" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve Foster</a>, who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist <a href="/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rob Gawthorpe</a> to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – <a href="/climber/1011/al-manson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Al Manson</a> and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.</p>
<p>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at <a href="/crag/540/caley-crags" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caley</a>, <a href="/crag/373/almscliff" rel="noopener noreferrer">Almscliff</a> and <a href="/crag/34554/hetchell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hetchell</a>. At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] On Peak Rock, 2013</p>

After

<p>So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at <a href="/crag/21/curbar-edge" rel="noopener noreferrer">Curbar Edge</a> in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British trad grading, it was given E3 6c.</p>
<p>The climb was discovered and named by <a href="/climber/3228/steve-foster" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve Foster</a>, who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist <a href="/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rob Gawthorpe</a> to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – <a href="/climber/1011/al-manson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Al Manson</a> and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.</p>
<p>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at <a href="/crag/540/caley-crags" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caley</a>, <a href="/crag/373/almscliff" rel="noopener noreferrer">Almscliff</a> and <a href="/crag/34554/hetchell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hetchell</a>. At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] On Peak Rock, 2013</p>

Before

One of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. Discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start.

[Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe):

>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.

>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.

### References

[1] On Peak Rock, 2013

After

So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb located in the heart of the Peak District at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) and features ultimate old school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. 

It was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:

>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.

>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.

Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'

### References

[1] On Peak Rock, 2013

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,11 +1,13 @@

-One of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. Discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start.

+So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb located in the heart of the Peak District at [Curbar Edge](/crag/21/curbar-edge) and features ultimate old school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. 

 

-[Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe):

+It was discovered and named by [Steve Foster](/climber/3228/steve-foster), who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist [Rob Gawthorpe](/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe) to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:

 

 >Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – [Al Manson](/climber/1011/al-manson) and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.

 

 >It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at [Caley](/crag/540/caley-crags), [Almscliff](/crag/373/almscliff) and [Hetchell](/crag/34554/hetchell). At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.

 

+Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'

+

 ### References

 

 [1] On Peak Rock, 2013

Before

<p>One of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. Discovered and named by <a href="/climber/3228/steve-foster" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve Foster</a>, who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rob Gawthorpe</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – <a href="/climber/1011/al-manson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Al Manson</a> and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.</p>
<p>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at <a href="/crag/540/caley-crags" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caley</a>, <a href="/crag/373/almscliff" rel="noopener noreferrer">Almscliff</a> and <a href="/crag/34554/hetchell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hetchell</a>. At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] On Peak Rock, 2013</p>

After

<p>So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb located in the heart of the Peak District at <a href="/crag/21/curbar-edge" rel="noopener noreferrer">Curbar Edge</a> and features ultimate old school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. </p>
<p>It was discovered and named by <a href="/climber/3228/steve-foster" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve Foster</a>, who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist <a href="/climber/736/rob-gawthorpe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rob Gawthorpe</a> to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – <a href="/climber/1011/al-manson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Al Manson</a> and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.</p>
<p>It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at <a href="/crag/540/caley-crags" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caley</a>, <a href="/crag/373/almscliff" rel="noopener noreferrer">Almscliff</a> and <a href="/crag/34554/hetchell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hetchell</a>. At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped 'Good advice!'</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] On Peak Rock, 2013</p>

Before

false

After

true

Before

The first 7B in the forest in 1977, holds were manufactured by [Jérôme Jean-Charles](/climber/1599/jérôme-jean-charles), who believed that possibilities for hard climbing had been exhausted and the only way to progress was to add holds to 'unclimbable' rock.

Topo Bleau:

>But Cuvier is also the massif of all the wrong turns, given how much the rock has been altered. Nowhere else are there so many manufactured holds, so many holds patched with cement. In a way, that was the price of progress.

> But let’s not throw our hammers at the heads of those who came before. In the spirit of the time, they weren’t violating any ethical principle, because it hadn’t yet been recognised that chipping actually limits the standard. In other words, it unconsciously avoided engaging with the rock itself. It took 17 years to go from 7a to 7b, and only 7 years from 7b to 8a. [1]

In 2001 the problem was vandalised by a disgruntled local climber, who attempted to chip off the starting hold, making the problem harder. (2)

### References

[1] [https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0](https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0)

[2] *On The Edge* issue 110, page 10

After

The first 7B in Fontainebleau. Climbed in 1977, key holds were manufactured by [Jérôme Jean-Charles](/climber/1599/jérôme-jean-charles), who believed that the possibilities for hard climbing on natural rock had been exhausted and the only way to progress would be to add holds to 'unclimbable' rock.

Topo Bleau summarises the paradox:

>But Cuvier is also the massif of all the wrong turns, given how much the rock has been altered. Nowhere else are there so many manufactured holds, so many holds patched with cement. In a way, that was the price of progress.

> But let’s not throw our hammers at the heads of those who came before. In the spirit of the time, they weren’t violating any ethical principle, because it hadn’t yet been recognised that chipping actually limits the standard. In other words, it unconsciously avoided engaging with the rock itself. It took 17 years to go from 7a to 7b, and only 7 years from 7b to 8a. [1]

In 2001 the problem was vandalised by a disgruntled local climber, who attempted to chip off the starting hold, making the problem harder. (2)

Despite its manufactured nature, the problem is one of the most popular in Fontainebleau and a milestone for any aspiring Bleausard. 

### References

[1] [https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0](https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0)

[2] *On The Edge* issue 110, page 10

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,6 +1,6 @@

-The first 7B in the forest in 1977, holds were manufactured by [Jérôme Jean-Charles](/climber/1599/jérôme-jean-charles), who believed that possibilities for hard climbing had been exhausted and the only way to progress was to add holds to 'unclimbable' rock.

+The first 7B in Fontainebleau. Climbed in 1977, key holds were manufactured by [Jérôme Jean-Charles](/climber/1599/jérôme-jean-charles), who believed that the possibilities for hard climbing on natural rock had been exhausted and the only way to progress would be to add holds to 'unclimbable' rock.

 

-Topo Bleau:

+Topo Bleau summarises the paradox:

 

 >But Cuvier is also the massif of all the wrong turns, given how much the rock has been altered. Nowhere else are there so many manufactured holds, so many holds patched with cement. In a way, that was the price of progress.

 

@@ -8,6 +8,8 @@

 

 In 2001 the problem was vandalised by a disgruntled local climber, who attempted to chip off the starting hold, making the problem harder. (2)

 

+Despite its manufactured nature, the problem is one of the most popular in Fontainebleau and a milestone for any aspiring Bleausard. 

+

 ### References

 

 [1] [https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0](https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0)

Before

<p>The first 7B in the forest in 1977, holds were manufactured by <a href="/climber/1599/jérôme-jean-charles" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jérôme Jean-Charles</a>, who believed that possibilities for hard climbing had been exhausted and the only way to progress was to add holds to 'unclimbable' rock.</p>
<p>Topo Bleau:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>But Cuvier is also the massif of all the wrong turns, given how much the rock has been altered. Nowhere else are there so many manufactured holds, so many holds patched with cement. In a way, that was the price of progress.</p>
<p>But let’s not throw our hammers at the heads of those who came before. In the spirit of the time, they weren’t violating any ethical principle, because it hadn’t yet been recognised that chipping actually limits the standard. In other words, it unconsciously avoided engaging with the rock itself. It took 17 years to go from 7a to 7b, and only 7 years from 7b to 8a. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>In 2001 the problem was vandalised by a disgruntled local climber, who attempted to chip off the starting hold, making the problem harder. (2)</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0</a></p>
<p>[2] <em>On The Edge</em> issue 110, page 10</p>

After

<p>The first 7B in Fontainebleau. Climbed in 1977, key holds were manufactured by <a href="/climber/1599/jérôme-jean-charles" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jérôme Jean-Charles</a>, who believed that the possibilities for hard climbing on natural rock had been exhausted and the only way to progress would be to add holds to 'unclimbable' rock.</p>
<p>Topo Bleau summarises the paradox:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>But Cuvier is also the massif of all the wrong turns, given how much the rock has been altered. Nowhere else are there so many manufactured holds, so many holds patched with cement. In a way, that was the price of progress.</p>
<p>But let’s not throw our hammers at the heads of those who came before. In the spirit of the time, they weren’t violating any ethical principle, because it hadn’t yet been recognised that chipping actually limits the standard. In other words, it unconsciously avoided engaging with the rock itself. It took 17 years to go from 7a to 7b, and only 7 years from 7b to 8a. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>In 2001 the problem was vandalised by a disgruntled local climber, who attempted to chip off the starting hold, making the problem harder. (2)</p>
<p>Despite its manufactured nature, the problem is one of the most popular in Fontainebleau and a milestone for any aspiring Bleausard. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://sites.google.com/site/topobleau/escalades-bleau/Foret-domaniale-de-Fontainebleau/Les-Cuviers?authuser=0</a></p>
<p>[2] <em>On The Edge</em> issue 110, page 10</p>

Before

<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198</a></p>

After

<p>Dave chose to belay from the half-height ledge in order to carry less rope up with him. This made for a harder catch than subsequent ascents, who have all belayed from the ground, including a fall which snapped the crucial top RP. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198</a></p>

Before

### References

[1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8)

[2] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198)

After

Dave chose to belay from the half-height ledge in order to carry less rope up with him. This made for a harder catch than subsequent ascents, who have all belayed from the ground, including a fall which snapped the crucial top RP. 

### References

[1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8)

[2] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,3 +1,5 @@

+Dave chose to belay from the half-height ledge in order to carry less rope up with him. This made for a harder catch than subsequent ascents, who have all belayed from the ground, including a fall which snapped the crucial top RP. 

+

 ### References

 

 [1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8)

Before

false

After

true

Before

Rhapsody is a trad route at [Dumbarton Rock](/crag/189/dumbarton-rock) in Scotland first climbed by [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) in 2006. It was one of the hardest trad routes in the world at the time  and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring hard, intense climbing with the potential for huge falls.

The climb starts by climbing the majority of [Requiem](/climb/505/requiem) (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up the headwall above. The line is somewhat eliminate at the top, forcing a line of maximum difficulty to the very top of the crag rather than reaching out to an arête. [2]

Around the time he made the second ascent [Sonnie Trotter](/climber/617/sonnie-trotter) also added a variation called [Direquiem](/climb/1322/direquiem) which takes the headwall but finishes left rather than going to the highest point of the crag.

### References

[1] [E11](/library/287/e11) 2006 film by [Paul Diffley](/climber/1740/paul-diffley)

[2] [https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html](https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html)

After

Rhapsody is a trad route at [Dumbarton Rock](/crag/189/dumbarton-rock) in Scotland first climbed by [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) in 2006. It was the hardest trad route in the world at the time and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring 8c+ climbing, and potential for huge falls onto tiny gear from the 8A crux at the top of the route. 

The route starts by climbing the majority of [Requiem](/climb/505/requiem) (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up the headwall above. The line is somewhat eliminate at the top, forcing a line of maximum difficulty to the very top of the crag rather than reaching out to an arête. [2]

The route has become a test piece for sport climbers who want to test their mettle, with repeats coming from an international cohort. 

Around the time that he made the second ascent, [Sonnie Trotter](/climber/617/sonnie-trotter) also added a variation called [Direquiem](/climb/1322/direquiem) which takes the headwall but finishes left, rather than going to the highest point of the crag.

### References

[1] [E11](/library/287/e11) 2006 film by [Paul Diffley](/climber/1740/paul-diffley)

[2] [https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html](https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,8 +1,10 @@

-Rhapsody is a trad route at [Dumbarton Rock](/crag/189/dumbarton-rock) in Scotland first climbed by [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) in 2006. It was one of the hardest trad routes in the world at the time  and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring hard, intense climbing with the potential for huge falls.

+Rhapsody is a trad route at [Dumbarton Rock](/crag/189/dumbarton-rock) in Scotland first climbed by [Dave MacLeod](/climber/146/dave-macleod) in 2006. It was the hardest trad route in the world at the time and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring 8c+ climbing, and potential for huge falls onto tiny gear from the 8A crux at the top of the route. 

 

-The climb starts by climbing the majority of [Requiem](/climb/505/requiem) (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up the headwall above. The line is somewhat eliminate at the top, forcing a line of maximum difficulty to the very top of the crag rather than reaching out to an arête. [2]

+The route starts by climbing the majority of [Requiem](/climb/505/requiem) (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up the headwall above. The line is somewhat eliminate at the top, forcing a line of maximum difficulty to the very top of the crag rather than reaching out to an arête. [2]

 

-Around the time he made the second ascent [Sonnie Trotter](/climber/617/sonnie-trotter) also added a variation called [Direquiem](/climb/1322/direquiem) which takes the headwall but finishes left rather than going to the highest point of the crag.

+The route has become a test piece for sport climbers who want to test their mettle, with repeats coming from an international cohort. 

+

+Around the time that he made the second ascent, [Sonnie Trotter](/climber/617/sonnie-trotter) also added a variation called [Direquiem](/climb/1322/direquiem) which takes the headwall but finishes left, rather than going to the highest point of the crag.

 

 ### References

Before

<p>Rhapsody is a trad route at <a href="/crag/189/dumbarton-rock">Dumbarton Rock</a> in Scotland first climbed by <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod">Dave MacLeod</a> in 2006. It was one of the hardest trad routes in the world at the time  and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring hard, intense climbing with the potential for huge falls.</p>
<p>The climb starts by climbing the majority of <a href="/climb/505/requiem">Requiem</a> (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up the headwall above. The line is somewhat eliminate at the top, forcing a line of maximum difficulty to the very top of the crag rather than reaching out to an arête. [2]</p>
<p>Around the time he made the second ascent <a href="/climber/617/sonnie-trotter">Sonnie Trotter</a> also added a variation called <a href="/climb/1322/direquiem">Direquiem</a> which takes the headwall but finishes left rather than going to the highest point of the crag.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/library/287/e11">E11</a> 2006 film by <a href="/climber/1740/paul-diffley">Paul Diffley</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html">https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html</a></p>

After

<p>Rhapsody is a trad route at <a href="/crag/189/dumbarton-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dumbarton Rock</a> in Scotland first climbed by <a href="/climber/146/dave-macleod" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave MacLeod</a> in 2006. It was the hardest trad route in the world at the time and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring 8c+ climbing, and potential for huge falls onto tiny gear from the 8A crux at the top of the route. </p>
<p>The route starts by climbing the majority of <a href="/climb/505/requiem" rel="noopener noreferrer">Requiem</a> (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up the headwall above. The line is somewhat eliminate at the top, forcing a line of maximum difficulty to the very top of the crag rather than reaching out to an arête. [2]</p>
<p>The route has become a test piece for sport climbers who want to test their mettle, with repeats coming from an international cohort. </p>
<p>Around the time that he made the second ascent, <a href="/climber/617/sonnie-trotter" rel="noopener noreferrer">Sonnie Trotter</a> also added a variation called <a href="/climb/1322/direquiem" rel="noopener noreferrer">Direquiem</a> which takes the headwall but finishes left, rather than going to the highest point of the crag.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/library/287/e11" rel="noopener noreferrer">E11</a> 2006 film by <a href="/climber/1740/paul-diffley" rel="noopener noreferrer">Paul Diffley</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html</a></p>

Before

<p>Few climbers have experienced both the highs and lows of elite climbing as publicly as James Pearson.</p>
<p>As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as <a href="/climb/606/equilibrium" rel="noopener noreferrer">Equilibrium</a> (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of <a href="/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door" rel="noopener noreferrer">Knockin' on Heaven's Door</a>. </p>
<p>He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably <a href="/climb/664/the-groove" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Groove</a> (E9) at <a href="/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Cratcliffe Tor</a>, a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. </p>
<p>In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established <a href="/climb/581/the-walk-of-life" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Walk of Life</a> at <a href="/crag/674/dyers-lookout" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dyers Lookout</a> and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities.</p>
<p>Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star <a href="/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caroline Ciavaldini</a>, who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. </p>
<p>In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, <a href="/climb/58/esclatamàsters" rel="noopener noreferrer">Esclatamàsters</a>. On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed <a href="/climb/602/something's-burning" rel="noopener noreferrer">Something's Burning</a> (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated <a href="/climb/582/rhapsody" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rhapsody</a> (E11)  – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb.</p>
<p>He made the second ascent of trad super-route <a href="/climb/653/tribe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tribe</a> (E11) in 2020, repeated <a href="/climb/1439/lexicon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lexicon</a> (E11) with frighteningly little preparation 2022, and made the long-awaited second ascent of the near-mythical <a href="/climb/554/echo-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Echo Wall</a> (E11) in 2024.</p>
<p>Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route <a href="/climb/2388/bon-voyage" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bon Voyage</a>, climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route <a href="/climb/840/le-voyage" rel="noopener noreferrer">Le Voyage</a> (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing.</p>
<p>As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range <a href="/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ganymede Takeover</a>, <a href="/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Great Shark Hunt</a> and <a href="/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens" rel="noopener noreferrer">Schule des Lebens</a>. At the time, each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world, though the problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class <a href="/climb/1905/mystic-river" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mystic River</a> (8C) and <a href="/climb/106/the-finnish-line" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Finnish Line</a> (8C).</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4" rel="noopener noreferrer">Interview with Tom Randall</a></p>
<p>[2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html</a></p>

After

<p>Few climbers have experienced both the highs and lows of elite climbing as publicly as James Pearson.</p>
<p>As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as <a href="/climb/606/equilibrium" rel="noopener noreferrer">Equilibrium</a> (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of <a href="/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door" rel="noopener noreferrer">Knockin' on Heaven's Door</a>. </p>
<p>He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably <a href="/climb/664/the-groove" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Groove</a> (E9) at <a href="/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Cratcliffe Tor</a>, a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. </p>
<p>In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established <a href="/climb/581/the-walk-of-life" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Walk of Life</a> at <a href="/crag/674/dyers-lookout" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dyers Lookout</a> and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities.</p>
<p>Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star <a href="/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caroline Ciavaldini</a>, who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes. </p>
<p>In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, <a href="/climb/58/esclatamàsters" rel="noopener noreferrer">Esclatamàsters</a>. On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed <a href="/climb/602/something's-burning" rel="noopener noreferrer">Something's Burning</a> (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated <a href="/climb/582/rhapsody" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rhapsody</a> (E11)  – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb.</p>
<p>He made the second ascent of trad super-route <a href="/climb/653/tribe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tribe</a> (E11) in 2020, repeated <a href="/climb/1439/lexicon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lexicon</a> (E11) with frighteningly little preparation 2022, and made the long-awaited second ascent of the near-mythical <a href="/climb/554/echo-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Echo Wall</a> (E11) in 2024.</p>
<p>Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route <a href="/climb/2388/bon-voyage" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bon Voyage</a>, climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route <a href="/climb/840/le-voyage" rel="noopener noreferrer">Le Voyage</a> (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing.</p>
<p>As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range <a href="/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ganymede Takeover</a>, <a href="/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Great Shark Hunt</a> and <a href="/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens" rel="noopener noreferrer">Schule des Lebens</a>. At the time, each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world, though the problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class <a href="/climb/1905/mystic-river" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mystic River</a> (8C) and <a href="/climb/106/the-finnish-line" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Finnish Line</a> (8C).</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4" rel="noopener noreferrer">Interview with Tom Randall</a></p>
<p>[2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html</a></p>

Before

Few climbers have experienced both the highs and lows of elite climbing as publicly as James Pearson.

As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as [Equilibrium](/climb/606/equilibrium) (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of [Knockin' on Heaven's Door](/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door). 

He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably [The Groove](/climb/664/the-groove) (E9) at [Cratcliffe Tor](/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor), a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. 

In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established [The Walk of Life](/climb/581/the-walk-of-life) at [Dyers Lookout](/crag/674/dyers-lookout) and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities.

Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini), who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. 

In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, [Esclatamàsters](/climb/58/esclatamàsters). On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed [Something's Burning](/climb/602/something's-burning) (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated [Rhapsody](/climb/582/rhapsody) (E11)  – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb.

He made the second ascent of trad super-route [Tribe](/climb/653/tribe) (E11) in 2020, repeated [Lexicon](/climb/1439/lexicon) (E11) with frighteningly little preparation 2022, and made the long-awaited second ascent of the near-mythical [Echo Wall](/climb/554/echo-wall) (E11) in 2024.

Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route [Bon Voyage](/climb/2388/bon-voyage), climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route [Le Voyage](/climb/840/le-voyage) (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing.

As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range [Ganymede Takeover](/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover), [The Great Shark Hunt](/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt) and [Schule des Lebens](/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens). At the time, each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world, though the problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class [Mystic River](/climb/1905/mystic-river) (8C) and [The Finnish Line](/climb/106/the-finnish-line) (8C).

### References

[1] [Interview with Tom Randall](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4)

[2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html)

After

Few climbers have experienced both the highs and lows of elite climbing as publicly as James Pearson.

As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as [Equilibrium](/climb/606/equilibrium) (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of [Knockin' on Heaven's Door](/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door). 

He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably [The Groove](/climb/664/the-groove) (E9) at [Cratcliffe Tor](/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor), a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. 

In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established [The Walk of Life](/climb/581/the-walk-of-life) at [Dyers Lookout](/crag/674/dyers-lookout) and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities.

Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini), who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes. 

In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, [Esclatamàsters](/climb/58/esclatamàsters). On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed [Something's Burning](/climb/602/something's-burning) (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated [Rhapsody](/climb/582/rhapsody) (E11)  – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb.

He made the second ascent of trad super-route [Tribe](/climb/653/tribe) (E11) in 2020, repeated [Lexicon](/climb/1439/lexicon) (E11) with frighteningly little preparation 2022, and made the long-awaited second ascent of the near-mythical [Echo Wall](/climb/554/echo-wall) (E11) in 2024.

Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route [Bon Voyage](/climb/2388/bon-voyage), climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route [Le Voyage](/climb/840/le-voyage) (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing.

As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range [Ganymede Takeover](/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover), [The Great Shark Hunt](/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt) and [Schule des Lebens](/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens). At the time, each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world, though the problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class [Mystic River](/climb/1905/mystic-river) (8C) and [The Finnish Line](/climb/106/the-finnish-line) (8C).

### References

[1] [Interview with Tom Randall](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4)

[2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -6,7 +6,7 @@

 

 In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established [The Walk of Life](/climb/581/the-walk-of-life) at [Dyers Lookout](/crag/674/dyers-lookout) and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities.

 

-Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini), who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. 

+Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini), who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes. 

 

 In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, [Esclatamàsters](/climb/58/esclatamàsters). On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed [Something's Burning](/climb/602/something's-burning) (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated [Rhapsody](/climb/582/rhapsody) (E11)  – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb.

Before

Few climbers have experienced both the highs and lows of elite climbing as publicly as James Pearson.

As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as [Equilibrium](/climb/606/equilibrium) (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of [Knockin' on Heaven's Door](/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door). 

He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably [The Groove](/climb/664/the-groove) (E9) at [Cratcliffe Tor](/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor), a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. 

As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range [Ganymede Takeover](/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover), [The Great Shark Hunt](/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt) and [Schule des Lebens](/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens). At the time each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world at the time, though these problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class [Mystic River](/climb/1905/mystic-river) (8C) and [The Finnish Line](/climb/106/the-finnish-line) (8C).

In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established [The Walk of Life](/climb/581/the-walk-of-life) at [Dyers Lookout](/crag/674/dyers-lookout) and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities.

Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini), who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. 

In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, [Esclatamàsters](/climb/58/esclatamàsters). On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed [Something's Burning](/climb/602/something's-burning) (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated [Rhapsody](/climb/582/rhapsody) (E11)  – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb.

He made the second ascent of trad super-route [Tribe](/climb/653/tribe) (E11) in 2020, repeated [Lexicon](/climb/1439/lexicon) (E11) with frighteningly little preparation 2022, and made the long-awaited second ascent of the near-mythical [Echo Wall](/climb/554/echo-wall) (E11) in 2024.

Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route [Bon Voyage](/climb/2388/bon-voyage), climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route [Le Voyage](/climb/840/le-voyage) (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing.

### References

[1] [Interview with Tom Randall](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4)

[2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html)

After

Few climbers have experienced both the highs and lows of elite climbing as publicly as James Pearson.

As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as [Equilibrium](/climb/606/equilibrium) (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of [Knockin' on Heaven's Door](/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door). 

He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably [The Groove](/climb/664/the-groove) (E9) at [Cratcliffe Tor](/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor), a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. 

In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established [The Walk of Life](/climb/581/the-walk-of-life) at [Dyers Lookout](/crag/674/dyers-lookout) and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities.

Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini), who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. 

In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, [Esclatamàsters](/climb/58/esclatamàsters). On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed [Something's Burning](/climb/602/something's-burning) (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated [Rhapsody](/climb/582/rhapsody) (E11)  – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb.

He made the second ascent of trad super-route [Tribe](/climb/653/tribe) (E11) in 2020, repeated [Lexicon](/climb/1439/lexicon) (E11) with frighteningly little preparation 2022, and made the long-awaited second ascent of the near-mythical [Echo Wall](/climb/554/echo-wall) (E11) in 2024.

Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route [Bon Voyage](/climb/2388/bon-voyage), climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route [Le Voyage](/climb/840/le-voyage) (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing.

As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range [Ganymede Takeover](/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover), [The Great Shark Hunt](/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt) and [Schule des Lebens](/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens). At the time, each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world, though the problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class [Mystic River](/climb/1905/mystic-river) (8C) and [The Finnish Line](/climb/106/the-finnish-line) (8C).

### References

[1] [Interview with Tom Randall](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4)

[2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -3,8 +3,6 @@

 As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as [Equilibrium](/climb/606/equilibrium) (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of [Knockin' on Heaven's Door](/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door). 

 

 He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably [The Groove](/climb/664/the-groove) (E9) at [Cratcliffe Tor](/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor), a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. 

-

-As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range [Ganymede Takeover](/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover), [The Great Shark Hunt](/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt) and [Schule des Lebens](/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens). At the time each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world at the time, though these problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class [Mystic River](/climb/1905/mystic-river) (8C) and [The Finnish Line](/climb/106/the-finnish-line) (8C).

 

 In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established [The Walk of Life](/climb/581/the-walk-of-life) at [Dyers Lookout](/crag/674/dyers-lookout) and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities.

 

@@ -16,6 +14,8 @@

 

 Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route [Bon Voyage](/climb/2388/bon-voyage), climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route [Le Voyage](/climb/840/le-voyage) (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing.

 

+As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range [Ganymede Takeover](/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover), [The Great Shark Hunt](/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt) and [Schule des Lebens](/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens). At the time, each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world, though the problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class [Mystic River](/climb/1905/mystic-river) (8C) and [The Finnish Line](/climb/106/the-finnish-line) (8C).

+

 ### References

 

 [1] [Interview with Tom Randall](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4)

Before

<p>Few climbers have experienced both the highs and lows of elite climbing as publicly as James Pearson.</p>
<p>As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as <a href="/climb/606/equilibrium" rel="noopener noreferrer">Equilibrium</a> (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of <a href="/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door" rel="noopener noreferrer">Knockin' on Heaven's Door</a>. </p>
<p>He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably <a href="/climb/664/the-groove" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Groove</a> (E9) at <a href="/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Cratcliffe Tor</a>, a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. </p>
<p>As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range <a href="/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ganymede Takeover</a>, <a href="/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Great Shark Hunt</a> and <a href="/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens" rel="noopener noreferrer">Schule des Lebens</a>. At the time each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world at the time, though these problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class <a href="/climb/1905/mystic-river" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mystic River</a> (8C) and <a href="/climb/106/the-finnish-line" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Finnish Line</a> (8C).</p>
<p>In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established <a href="/climb/581/the-walk-of-life" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Walk of Life</a> at <a href="/crag/674/dyers-lookout" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dyers Lookout</a> and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities.</p>
<p>Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star <a href="/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caroline Ciavaldini</a>, who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. </p>
<p>In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, <a href="/climb/58/esclatamàsters" rel="noopener noreferrer">Esclatamàsters</a>. On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed <a href="/climb/602/something's-burning" rel="noopener noreferrer">Something's Burning</a> (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated <a href="/climb/582/rhapsody" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rhapsody</a> (E11)  – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb.</p>
<p>He made the second ascent of trad super-route <a href="/climb/653/tribe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tribe</a> (E11) in 2020, repeated <a href="/climb/1439/lexicon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lexicon</a> (E11) with frighteningly little preparation 2022, and made the long-awaited second ascent of the near-mythical <a href="/climb/554/echo-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Echo Wall</a> (E11) in 2024.</p>
<p>Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route <a href="/climb/2388/bon-voyage" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bon Voyage</a>, climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route <a href="/climb/840/le-voyage" rel="noopener noreferrer">Le Voyage</a> (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4" rel="noopener noreferrer">Interview with Tom Randall</a></p>
<p>[2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html</a></p>

After

<p>Few climbers have experienced both the highs and lows of elite climbing as publicly as James Pearson.</p>
<p>As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as <a href="/climb/606/equilibrium" rel="noopener noreferrer">Equilibrium</a> (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of <a href="/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door" rel="noopener noreferrer">Knockin' on Heaven's Door</a>. </p>
<p>He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably <a href="/climb/664/the-groove" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Groove</a> (E9) at <a href="/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Cratcliffe Tor</a>, a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. </p>
<p>In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established <a href="/climb/581/the-walk-of-life" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Walk of Life</a> at <a href="/crag/674/dyers-lookout" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dyers Lookout</a> and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities.</p>
<p>Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star <a href="/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caroline Ciavaldini</a>, who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. </p>
<p>In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, <a href="/climb/58/esclatamàsters" rel="noopener noreferrer">Esclatamàsters</a>. On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed <a href="/climb/602/something's-burning" rel="noopener noreferrer">Something's Burning</a> (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated <a href="/climb/582/rhapsody" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rhapsody</a> (E11)  – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb.</p>
<p>He made the second ascent of trad super-route <a href="/climb/653/tribe" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tribe</a> (E11) in 2020, repeated <a href="/climb/1439/lexicon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lexicon</a> (E11) with frighteningly little preparation 2022, and made the long-awaited second ascent of the near-mythical <a href="/climb/554/echo-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Echo Wall</a> (E11) in 2024.</p>
<p>Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route <a href="/climb/2388/bon-voyage" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bon Voyage</a>, climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route <a href="/climb/840/le-voyage" rel="noopener noreferrer">Le Voyage</a> (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing.</p>
<p>As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range <a href="/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ganymede Takeover</a>, <a href="/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Great Shark Hunt</a> and <a href="/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens" rel="noopener noreferrer">Schule des Lebens</a>. At the time, each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world, though the problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class <a href="/climb/1905/mystic-river" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mystic River</a> (8C) and <a href="/climb/106/the-finnish-line" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Finnish Line</a> (8C).</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4" rel="noopener noreferrer">Interview with Tom Randall</a></p>
<p>[2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html</a></p>

Before

James pearson is an all round climber from the peak district in the UK.

Growing up, James established himself with fast repeats of many hard and scary gritstone routes such as [Equilibrium](/climb/606/equilibrium), at the time one of the hardest gritstone routes around, as well as putting up hard routes of his own such as [The Promise](/climb/704/the-promise) at [Burbage North](/crag/88/burbage-north).

As well as climbing hard trad James also repeated many hard boulder problems. Most notably in 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range [Ganymede Takeover](/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover), [The Great Shark Hunt](/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt) and [Schule des Lebens](/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens). At the time each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world at the time though these problems have subsequently been downgraded.

In 2008 James courted controversy when he established [The Walk of Life](/climb/581/the-walk-of-life) at [Dyers Lookout](/crag/674/dyers-lookout) and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was harder than any other route in the UK at the time. The route is now considered E9, and on reflection James has admitted the route was not in his style which is why it felt as hard as it did for him.

After the controversy around The Walk of Life James moved to Europe and spent a lot of time becoming a more well rounded climber. Around the same time he met his now-wife [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini). Putting his training to good use James has now repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. Notable ascents include many hard onsight and flashes in Pembroke in South Wales, a repeat of [Dave MacLeod's](/climber/146/dave-macleod) [Rhapsody](/climb/582/rhapsody) at [Dumbarton Rock](/crag/189/dumbarton-rock), [Jacopo Larcher's](/climber/590/jacopo-larcher) [Tribe](/climb/653/tribe) and the first ascent of [Le Voyage](/climb/840/le-voyage).

In 2023 James once again suggested E12 for [Bon Voyage](/climb/2388/bon-voyage), it has held this grade after a handful of repeats.

### References

[1] [Interview with Tom Randall](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4)

[2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html)

After

Few climbers have experienced both the highs and lows of elite climbing as publicly as James Pearson.

As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as [Equilibrium](/climb/606/equilibrium) (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of [Knockin' on Heaven's Door](/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door). 

He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably [The Groove](/climb/664/the-groove) (E9) at [Cratcliffe Tor](/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor), a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. 

As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range [Ganymede Takeover](/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover), [The Great Shark Hunt](/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt) and [Schule des Lebens](/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens). At the time each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world at the time, though these problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class [Mystic River](/climb/1905/mystic-river) (8C) and [The Finnish Line](/climb/106/the-finnish-line) (8C).

In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established [The Walk of Life](/climb/581/the-walk-of-life) at [Dyers Lookout](/crag/674/dyers-lookout) and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities.

Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini), who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. 

In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, [Esclatamàsters](/climb/58/esclatamàsters). On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed [Something's Burning](/climb/602/something's-burning) (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated [Rhapsody](/climb/582/rhapsody) (E11)  – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb.

He made the second ascent of trad super-route [Tribe](/climb/653/tribe) (E11) in 2020, repeated [Lexicon](/climb/1439/lexicon) (E11) with frighteningly little preparation 2022, and made the long-awaited second ascent of the near-mythical [Echo Wall](/climb/554/echo-wall) (E11) in 2024.

Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route [Bon Voyage](/climb/2388/bon-voyage), climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route [Le Voyage](/climb/840/le-voyage) (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing.

### References

[1] [Interview with Tom Randall](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HWeMGzZC_4)

[2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,14 +1,20 @@

-James pearson is an all round climber from the peak district in the UK.

+Few climbers have experienced both the highs and lows of elite climbing as publicly as James Pearson.

 

-Growing up, James established himself with fast repeats of many hard and scary gritstone routes such as [Equilibrium](/climb/606/equilibrium), at the time one of the hardest gritstone routes around, as well as putting up hard routes of his own such as [The Promise](/climb/704/the-promise) at [Burbage North](/crag/88/burbage-north).

+As a teenager growing up in the Peak District, UK, Pearson established his reputation as a 'keen youth' with fast – and often sketchy – repeats of the boldest grit routes of the day, such as [Equilibrium](/climb/606/equilibrium) (E10) and a terrifying skyhook-only ascent of [Knockin' on Heaven's Door](/climb/644/knockin'-on-heaven's-door). 

 

-As well as climbing hard trad James also repeated many hard boulder problems. Most notably in 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range [Ganymede Takeover](/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover), [The Great Shark Hunt](/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt) and [Schule des Lebens](/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens). At the time each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world at the time though these problems have subsequently been downgraded.

+He went on to establish hard grit routes of his own, most notably [The Groove](/climb/664/the-groove) (E9) at [Cratcliffe Tor](/crag/11/cratcliffe-tor), a longstanding 'last great problem' with desperate climbing which has seen very few repeats. 

 

-In 2008 James courted controversy when he established [The Walk of Life](/climb/581/the-walk-of-life) at [Dyers Lookout](/crag/674/dyers-lookout) and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was harder than any other route in the UK at the time. The route is now considered E9, and on reflection James has admitted the route was not in his style which is why it felt as hard as it did for him.

+As well as climbing hard trad, Pearson is a devoted boulderer. In 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range [Ganymede Takeover](/climb/1665/ganymede-takeover), [The Great Shark Hunt](/climb/1666/the-great-shark-hunt) and [Schule des Lebens](/climb/1667/schule-des-lebens). At the time each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world at the time, though these problems have subsequently been downgraded. In more recent years he has consolidated the 8C grade, with repeats of the world class [Mystic River](/climb/1905/mystic-river) (8C) and [The Finnish Line](/climb/106/the-finnish-line) (8C).

 

-After the controversy around The Walk of Life James moved to Europe and spent a lot of time becoming a more well rounded climber. Around the same time he met his now-wife [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini). Putting his training to good use James has now repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. Notable ascents include many hard onsight and flashes in Pembroke in South Wales, a repeat of [Dave MacLeod's](/climber/146/dave-macleod) [Rhapsody](/climb/582/rhapsody) at [Dumbarton Rock](/crag/189/dumbarton-rock), [Jacopo Larcher's](/climber/590/jacopo-larcher) [Tribe](/climb/653/tribe) and the first ascent of [Le Voyage](/climb/840/le-voyage).

+In 2008 James famously courted controversy when he established [The Walk of Life](/climb/581/the-walk-of-life) at [Dyers Lookout](/crag/674/dyers-lookout) and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was far harder than any other trad route in the world at the time. However, the 50m slab pitch was in a style he was unfamiliar with; the route was swiftly down graded to E9 and James became the subject of online vitriol. As a consequence, he left the UK and moved to Innsbruck, where he began to work on widening his abilities.

 

-In 2023 James once again suggested E12 for [Bon Voyage](/climb/2388/bon-voyage), it has held this grade after a handful of repeats.

+Around the same time he met his now-wife, competition star [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini), who mentored him in sport climbing and training. Moving to France and putting his newfound fitness to good use, Pearson repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. 

+

+In 2012 he climbed his first 9a, [Esclatamàsters](/climb/58/esclatamàsters). On a quick trip home in September 2014 he flashed [Something's Burning](/climb/602/something's-burning) (E9) in Pembroke, a high water mark for trad style at the time. Later that month he repeated [Rhapsody](/climb/582/rhapsody) (E11)  – a route that 6 years earlier he had publicly dismissed as easy and eliminate, but had been unable to climb.

+

+He made the second ascent of trad super-route [Tribe](/climb/653/tribe) (E11) in 2020, repeated [Lexicon](/climb/1439/lexicon) (E11) with frighteningly little preparation 2022, and made the long-awaited second ascent of the near-mythical [Echo Wall](/climb/554/echo-wall) (E11) in 2024.

+

+Undoubtedly Pearson's swansong is his trad route [Bon Voyage](/climb/2388/bon-voyage), climbed in 2023: a fortuitous line of micro-pockets breaking out left from his earlier route [Le Voyage](/climb/840/le-voyage) (E10). With 9a climbing in a spicy position, Pearson once again suggested E12 – and this time the grade stuck, heralding a new level in trad climbing.

 

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