Mono

	Country	Contributions	Between	Climbers	Crags	Climbs	Ascents
1	United Kingdom	11177	22nd May 2025 – 11th October 2026	117	13	586	1083
2	France	3432	22nd May 2025 – 29th September 2026	32	13	173	326
3	USA	1774	30th July 2025 – 20th September 2026	26	56	167	88
4	Japan	1478	19th July 2025 – 14th August 2026	14	25	107	73
5	Spain	319	31st July 2025 – 14th August 2026	3	9	35	13
6	Switzerland	229	31st July 2025 – 9th August 2026	2	5	21	15
7	New Zealand	216	19th August 2025 – 14th August 2026	1	1	17	13
8	Canada	170	10th September 2025 – 14th August 2026	1	9	25	3
9	Italy	166	12th August 2025 – 16th August 2026	2	7	19	7
10	Germany	151	8th November 2025 – 6th August 2026	4	6	10	5

	Date	Time	User	Type	Name	Attribute
16181	10th September 2025	13:16:23 UTC	Mono	climber	Jeff Lowe	gender
Before `None` After `false`
16182	10th September 2025	13:16:23 UTC	Mono	climber	Jeff Lowe	climber_name
Before `None` After `Jeff Lowe`
16183	10th September 2025	13:14:53 UTC	Mono	ascent	Jonny Woodward's ascent of Moonlight Buttress	First Free Ascent
Before `None` After `1`
16184	10th September 2025	13:14:36 UTC	Mono	ascent	Peter Croft's ascent of Moonlight Buttress	First Free Ascent
Before `None` After `1`
16185	10th September 2025	13:13:26 UTC	Mono	climb	Moonlight Buttress	notes_pretty
Before `None` After <p>Originally 5.13b</p> <blockquote> <p>The 'theft' of the climb's first free ascent in the early 90s and attendant bolting controversies reputedly set free climbing in Zion back a decade. Through many subsequent ascents, both free and 'clean aid', the route has become easier than it was when Peter Croft and Jonny Woodward first freed it. The placing and removal and weighting of hundreds of cams has eroded the sandstone, widening the cracks. What was once a fingertip layback in the dihedral is now studded with apertures that accept at least a knuckle. The walls are scratched and whitened by the hauling of bags. We did our best, depositing our supplies by abseil rather than hauling, but our ascent still made a contribution to the wear. The route is compromised, and so are we; it is only the easing of difficulty that brought it close to our ability in the first place.(1)</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/moonlight_buttress-12928">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/moonlight_buttress-12928</a></p>
16186	10th September 2025	13:13:26 UTC	Mono	climb	Moonlight Buttress	notes
Before `None` After Originally 5.13b >The 'theft' of the climb's first free ascent in the early 90s and attendant bolting controversies reputedly set free climbing in Zion back a decade. Through many subsequent ascents, both free and 'clean aid', the route has become easier than it was when Peter Croft and Jonny Woodward first freed it. The placing and removal and weighting of hundreds of cams has eroded the sandstone, widening the cracks. What was once a fingertip layback in the dihedral is now studded with apertures that accept at least a knuckle. The walls are scratched and whitened by the hauling of bags. We did our best, depositing our supplies by abseil rather than hauling, but our ascent still made a contribution to the wear. The route is compromised, and so are we; it is only the easing of difficulty that brought it close to our ability in the first place.(1) ### References [1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/moonlight_buttress-12928](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/moonlight_buttress-12928) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1 +1,7 @@ - +Originally 5.13b + +>The 'theft' of the climb's first free ascent in the early 90s and attendant bolting controversies reputedly set free climbing in Zion back a decade. Through many subsequent ascents, both free and 'clean aid', the route has become easier than it was when Peter Croft and Jonny Woodward first freed it. The placing and removal and weighting of hundreds of cams has eroded the sandstone, widening the cracks. What was once a fingertip layback in the dihedral is now studded with apertures that accept at least a knuckle. The walls are scratched and whitened by the hauling of bags. We did our best, depositing our supplies by abseil rather than hauling, but our ascent still made a contribution to the wear. The route is compromised, and so are we; it is only the easing of difficulty that brought it close to our ability in the first place.(1) + +### References + +[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/moonlight_buttress-12928](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/moonlight_buttress-12928)
16187	10th September 2025	13:11:03 UTC	Mono	ascent	Peter Croft's ascent of Moonlight Buttress	suggested_grade_id
Before `None` After `79`
16188	10th September 2025	12:39:40 UTC	Mono	climb	Pill Box Wall	Other Name
Before `None` After `Gaskins' Problem`
16189	10th September 2025	12:39:24 UTC	Mono	climb	Pill Box Wall	climb_name
Before `Gaskins' Problem` After `Pill Box Wall`
16190	10th September 2025	12:33:23 UTC	Mono	climb	Identity Crisis	notes_pretty
Before <p>Incorrectly marked as Gaskin's Problem in early bouldering guides.</p> <blockquote> <p>Gaskins problem at Almscliff turned out not to be a Gaskins problem after all. Renamed Identity Crisis - FA Tim Clifford (2002), still only had one repeat I think from Stew Watson? Think both thought more 8A than 8A+ (but it's a bit reach dependent).</p> <p>The problem John Gaskins climbed back in 1993 was actually "Cherry Falls Right" - ie: get the Cherry Falls crimp with LH, match as best as possible with R and go again with R straight for break. Dunno if it's been repeated. Probably somewhere in the 8A - 8A+ ish range. [1]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://ukbouldering.com/threads/elite-ukbouldering-inventory-re-boot.20589/page-5#post-373074">https://ukbouldering.com/threads/elite-ukbouldering-inventory-re-boot.20589/page-5#post-373074</a></p> After <p>Incorrectly marked as Gaskins' Problem in early bouldering guides.</p> <blockquote> <p>Gaskins problem at Almscliff turned out not to be a Gaskins problem after all. Renamed Identity Crisis - FA Tim Clifford (2002), still only had one repeat I think from Stew Watson? Think both thought more 8A than 8A+ (but it's a bit reach dependent).</p> <p>The problem John Gaskins climbed back in 1993 was actually "Cherry Falls Right" - ie: get the Cherry Falls crimp with LH, match as best as possible with R and go again with R straight for break. Dunno if it's been repeated. Probably somewhere in the 8A - 8A+ ish range. [1]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://ukbouldering.com/threads/elite-ukbouldering-inventory-re-boot.20589/page-5#post-373074">https://ukbouldering.com/threads/elite-ukbouldering-inventory-re-boot.20589/page-5#post-373074</a></p>
16191	10th September 2025	12:33:23 UTC	Mono	climb	Identity Crisis	notes
Before Incorrectly marked as Gaskin's Problem in early bouldering guides. >Gaskins problem at Almscliff turned out not to be a Gaskins problem after all. Renamed Identity Crisis - FA Tim Clifford (2002), still only had one repeat I think from Stew Watson? Think both thought more 8A than 8A+ (but it's a bit reach dependent). >The problem John Gaskins climbed back in 1993 was actually "Cherry Falls Right" - ie: get the Cherry Falls crimp with LH, match as best as possible with R and go again with R straight for break. Dunno if it's been repeated. Probably somewhere in the 8A - 8A+ ish range. [1] ### References [1] [https://ukbouldering.com/threads/elite-ukbouldering-inventory-re-boot.20589/page-5#post-373074](https://ukbouldering.com/threads/elite-ukbouldering-inventory-re-boot.20589/page-5#post-373074) After Incorrectly marked as Gaskins' Problem in early bouldering guides. >Gaskins problem at Almscliff turned out not to be a Gaskins problem after all. Renamed Identity Crisis - FA Tim Clifford (2002), still only had one repeat I think from Stew Watson? Think both thought more 8A than 8A+ (but it's a bit reach dependent). >The problem John Gaskins climbed back in 1993 was actually "Cherry Falls Right" - ie: get the Cherry Falls crimp with LH, match as best as possible with R and go again with R straight for break. Dunno if it's been repeated. Probably somewhere in the 8A - 8A+ ish range. [1] ### References [1] [https://ukbouldering.com/threads/elite-ukbouldering-inventory-re-boot.20589/page-5#post-373074](https://ukbouldering.com/threads/elite-ukbouldering-inventory-re-boot.20589/page-5#post-373074) Diff `--- before +++ after @@ -1,4 +1,4 @@ -Incorrectly marked as Gaskin's Problem in early bouldering guides. +Incorrectly marked as Gaskins' Problem in early bouldering guides. >Gaskins problem at Almscliff turned out not to be a Gaskins problem after all. Renamed Identity Crisis - FA Tim Clifford (2002), still only had one repeat I think from Stew Watson? Think both thought more 8A than 8A+ (but it's a bit reach dependent).`
16192	10th September 2025	12:33:09 UTC	Mono	climb	Identity Crisis	Other Name
Before `None` After `Gaskins' Problem`
16193	10th September 2025	11:46:52 UTC	Mono	ascent	Jonny Woodward's ascent of Hall of Mirrors	notes_pretty
Before <p>A clean one-push ascent. </p> <p>In EBs, which Jonny found to be better for the route's micro-edges than softer sticky rubber.</p> <blockquote> <p>Starting late, we made it to the top of the 13th and bailed as planned, leaving all our lines fixed. From my experience in the spring, I was convinced that the route's full-body-weight edgy smearing was not possible in flexible shoes, but despite my best derisive comments, John had stubbornly pulled out a pair of his favorite floppies and proceeded to fire past every crux with little apparent effort. Christ, I hope he never tries his edging boots. Best to compliment his choice of footwear and keep him handicapped.</p> </blockquote> <p>Johnny's full account of the ascent was published in 'Climbing' magazine and has been reproduced on Supertopo. (1)</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527185&tn=20">http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527185&tn=20</a></p> After <p>A clean one-push ascent. </p> <p>In EBs, which Jonny found to be better for the route's micro-edges than softer sticky rubber.</p> <blockquote> <p>From my experience in the spring, I was convinced that the route's full-body-weight edgy smearing was not possible in flexible shoes, but despite my best derisive comments, John had stubbornly pulled out a pair of his favorite floppies and proceeded to fire past every crux with little apparent effort. Christ, I hope he never tries his edging boots. Best to compliment his choice of footwear and keep him handicapped.</p> </blockquote> <p>Johnny's full account of the ascent was published in 'Climbing' magazine and has been reproduced on Supertopo. (1)</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527185&tn=20">http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527185&tn=20</a></p>
16194	10th September 2025	11:46:52 UTC	Mono	ascent	Jonny Woodward's ascent of Hall of Mirrors	notes
Before A clean one-push ascent. In EBs, which Jonny found to be better for the route's micro-edges than softer sticky rubber. >Starting late, we made it to the top of the 13th and bailed as planned, leaving all our lines fixed. From my experience in the spring, I was convinced that the route's full-body-weight edgy smearing was not possible in flexible shoes, but despite my best derisive comments, John had stubbornly pulled out a pair of his favorite floppies and proceeded to fire past every crux with little apparent effort. Christ, I hope he never tries his edging boots. Best to compliment his choice of footwear and keep him handicapped. Johnny's full account of the ascent was published in 'Climbing' magazine and has been reproduced on Supertopo. (1) ### References [1] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527185&tn=20](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527185&tn=20) After A clean one-push ascent. In EBs, which Jonny found to be better for the route's micro-edges than softer sticky rubber. >From my experience in the spring, I was convinced that the route's full-body-weight edgy smearing was not possible in flexible shoes, but despite my best derisive comments, John had stubbornly pulled out a pair of his favorite floppies and proceeded to fire past every crux with little apparent effort. Christ, I hope he never tries his edging boots. Best to compliment his choice of footwear and keep him handicapped. Johnny's full account of the ascent was published in 'Climbing' magazine and has been reproduced on Supertopo. (1) ### References [1] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527185&tn=20](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527185&tn=20) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ In EBs, which Jonny found to be better for the route's micro-edges than softer sticky rubber. ->Starting late, we made it to the top of the 13th and bailed as planned, leaving all our lines fixed. From my experience in the spring, I was convinced that the route's full-body-weight edgy smearing was not possible in flexible shoes, but despite my best derisive comments, John had stubbornly pulled out a pair of his favorite floppies and proceeded to fire past every crux with little apparent effort. Christ, I hope he never tries his edging boots. Best to compliment his choice of footwear and keep him handicapped. +>From my experience in the spring, I was convinced that the route's full-body-weight edgy smearing was not possible in flexible shoes, but despite my best derisive comments, John had stubbornly pulled out a pair of his favorite floppies and proceeded to fire past every crux with little apparent effort. Christ, I hope he never tries his edging boots. Best to compliment his choice of footwear and keep him handicapped. Johnny's full account of the ascent was published in 'Climbing' magazine and has been reproduced on Supertopo. (1)
16195	10th September 2025	11:46:30 UTC	Mono	ascent	Jonny Woodward's ascent of Hall of Mirrors	notes_pretty
Before <blockquote> <p>On the initial SA probe with JW we found that every hanger had been removed from pitch 13 by the FA party. That posed a problem we hadn't accounted for by bringing a bunch of 1/4" hangers with us. The bolts were threaded but we were unable to make wires work behind some of the nuts (and we didn't have enough small wires anyway). JW later went back with Bercaw and re-equiped the remaining pitches so he could then do a clean one push ascent. Guaranteed, JW did all pitches clean on the SA.</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/527185/hall-of-mirrors">http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/527185/hall-of-mirrors</a></p> After <p>A clean one-push ascent. </p> <p>In EBs, which Jonny found to be better for the route's micro-edges than softer sticky rubber.</p> <blockquote> <p>Starting late, we made it to the top of the 13th and bailed as planned, leaving all our lines fixed. From my experience in the spring, I was convinced that the route's full-body-weight edgy smearing was not possible in flexible shoes, but despite my best derisive comments, John had stubbornly pulled out a pair of his favorite floppies and proceeded to fire past every crux with little apparent effort. Christ, I hope he never tries his edging boots. Best to compliment his choice of footwear and keep him handicapped.</p> </blockquote> <p>Johnny's full account of the ascent was published in 'Climbing' magazine and has been reproduced on Supertopo. (1)</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527185&tn=20">http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527185&tn=20</a></p>
16196	10th September 2025	11:46:30 UTC	Mono	ascent	Jonny Woodward's ascent of Hall of Mirrors	notes
Before >On the initial SA probe with JW we found that every hanger had been removed from pitch 13 by the FA party. That posed a problem we hadn't accounted for by bringing a bunch of 1/4" hangers with us. The bolts were threaded but we were unable to make wires work behind some of the nuts (and we didn't have enough small wires anyway). JW later went back with Bercaw and re-equiped the remaining pitches so he could then do a clean one push ascent. Guaranteed, JW did all pitches clean on the SA. ### References [1] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/527185/hall-of-mirrors](http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/527185/hall-of-mirrors) After A clean one-push ascent. In EBs, which Jonny found to be better for the route's micro-edges than softer sticky rubber. >Starting late, we made it to the top of the 13th and bailed as planned, leaving all our lines fixed. From my experience in the spring, I was convinced that the route's full-body-weight edgy smearing was not possible in flexible shoes, but despite my best derisive comments, John had stubbornly pulled out a pair of his favorite floppies and proceeded to fire past every crux with little apparent effort. Christ, I hope he never tries his edging boots. Best to compliment his choice of footwear and keep him handicapped. Johnny's full account of the ascent was published in 'Climbing' magazine and has been reproduced on Supertopo. (1) ### References [1] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527185&tn=20](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527185&tn=20) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,5 +1,11 @@ ->On the initial SA probe with JW we found that every hanger had been removed from pitch 13 by the FA party. That posed a problem we hadn't accounted for by bringing a bunch of 1/4" hangers with us. The bolts were threaded but we were unable to make wires work behind some of the nuts (and we didn't have enough small wires anyway). JW later went back with Bercaw and re-equiped the remaining pitches so he could then do a clean one push ascent. Guaranteed, JW did all pitches clean on the SA. +A clean one-push ascent. + +In EBs, which Jonny found to be better for the route's micro-edges than softer sticky rubber. + +>Starting late, we made it to the top of the 13th and bailed as planned, leaving all our lines fixed. From my experience in the spring, I was convinced that the route's full-body-weight edgy smearing was not possible in flexible shoes, but despite my best derisive comments, John had stubbornly pulled out a pair of his favorite floppies and proceeded to fire past every crux with little apparent effort. Christ, I hope he never tries his edging boots. Best to compliment his choice of footwear and keep him handicapped. + +Johnny's full account of the ascent was published in 'Climbing' magazine and has been reproduced on Supertopo. (1) ### References -[1] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/527185/hall-of-mirrors](http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/527185/hall-of-mirrors) +[1] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527185&tn=20](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527185&tn=20)
16197	10th September 2025	11:04:34 UTC	Mono	climb	Hall of Mirrors	notes_pretty
Before `None` After <blockquote> <p>The history of the Hall of Mirrors is now fairly well known. Between 1976 and September 1980, the route grew by a process of accretion, countless attempts by different teams involving various and often enough conflicting personalities. However, for the sake of convenience, the growth of the route may be divided into three distinct stages, dominated, in succession, by the skills and philosophies of three different prime motivators, Mark Wilford, Dave Austin, and Chris Cantwell. Every advance up the wall was likewise preceded by some major change in equipment, technique, or strategy. These include siege climbing from portaledges, the provisional use of aid chains, and the appearance of the Galibier “Contact” shoe, with its softer, more malleable, and adhesive rubber.</p> <p>During the drought of 1976-77, Mark Wilford of Colorado Springs established the route’s first two pitches, titling his effort The Opening of Misty Beethoven, after a highly overrated, though somewhat programmatic, pornographic film. After such an ambitious beginning, it is not clear why he stopped so soon. But the route is highly tempermental at best, and its conditions were undoubtedly at their greasiest after a scorching, bone- dry summer. By self-admission, Wilford had never friction climbed before either. He had no way of knowing in advance that using chalk would increase the rating of the second pitch several additional grades. So, the hypothetical third pitch must have appeared impossible, although it was to be rated finally only 5.10a.</p> <p>It was at this point that Dave Austin decided to administer a salutory dose of technical hygiene. Backed by experience he had gained on A Mother’s Lament, Austin realized the use of chalk was anathema to advanced foonting* because the particles that fell down from his hands destroyed adhesion between shoe rubber and the smooth rock surface. After recruiting Chris Cantwell and me from the Lodge parking lot, Austin now added pitches three through eight to a route renamed the Hall of Mirrors. Even with the aid of fixed ropes and siege tactics, however, we were unable to complete the Unfinished Ninth, a pitch that was eventually to be rated 5.12b.</p> <p>Accompanied at one time or another by either Scott Cole or Scott Burk, Cantwell took over the lead. In the fall of 1979 he had obtained a prototype pair of “Contacts,” a new softer rubber shoe by Galibier that permitted better friction on higher-angle stone. He finished the Ninth and, over the next year, undaunted by storms and earthquakes, pushed the route up to the base of the 13th pitch. Here he decided, after drilling a few miraculous bolts up a nearly vertical prow, that a bolt ladder was finally necessary.</p> <p>However, when Austin accompanied Cantwell up the fixed lines to this new high point, there was disagreement. Austin believed that following a ramp a few feet to the right would have eliminated the need for a ladder. Drilling could have been accomplished from all-natural stances, Austin argued. But in order to make the line harder for the sake of difficulty as an end in itself, Cantwell had refused to compromise with the natural rock environment and, instead, had deliberately chosen to construct a pre-placed “free ladder” up what he referred to as the “line of strength.” Feeling such tactics were unconscionable, Austin elected to drop out. Still, Cantwell persevered. After freeing the 13th, at a tentative 5.13 standard, he went on to add two more hard pitches before intercepting the Coonyard to Rim route. On this final push, in September 1980, Scott Burke was his partner.</p> <p>Before they were freed, Half Dome and the west face of El Capitan had been conventional aid routes for over twenty years. The rationale behind freeing the northwest face of Half Dome was based on the fact that it was America’s first grade six. But Hall of Mirrors was the first time a Yosemite grade six had been conceived of as a free climb from its inception. However, it is especially significant that the Cantwell-Austin break underscores the conflicting face-climbing traditions that were introduced at the start of this article. Cantwell wished to maximize difficulty by constructing a well-protected free line, while Austin wished to preserve boldness by following the natural line of greatest weakness.</p> <ul> <li>Foonting is a technical Yosemite term used in friction climbing. It involves “smearing” on high-angle slabs while rapidly “padding” upward; moving up, in essence, faster than moving back down.</li> </ul> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198204100/Method-and-Madness-Evolution-of-Yosemite-Face-Climbing-Standards">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198204100/Method-and-Madness-Evolution-of-Yosemite-Face-Climbing-Standards</a></p>
16198	10th September 2025	11:04:34 UTC	Mono	climb	Hall of Mirrors	notes
Before `None` After >The history of the Hall of Mirrors is now fairly well known. Between 1976 and September 1980, the route grew by a process of accretion, countless attempts by different teams involving various and often enough conflicting personalities. However, for the sake of convenience, the growth of the route may be divided into three distinct stages, dominated, in succession, by the skills and philosophies of three different prime motivators, Mark Wilford, Dave Austin, and Chris Cantwell. Every advance up the wall was likewise preceded by some major change in equipment, technique, or strategy. These include siege climbing from portaledges, the provisional use of aid chains, and the appearance of the Galibier “Contact” shoe, with its softer, more malleable, and adhesive rubber. >During the drought of 1976-77, Mark Wilford of Colorado Springs established the route’s first two pitches, titling his effort The Opening of Misty Beethoven, after a highly overrated, though somewhat programmatic, pornographic film. After such an ambitious beginning, it is not clear why he stopped so soon. But the route is highly tempermental at best, and its conditions were undoubtedly at their greasiest after a scorching, bone- dry summer. By self-admission, Wilford had never friction climbed before either. He had no way of knowing in advance that using chalk would increase the rating of the second pitch several additional grades. So, the hypothetical third pitch must have appeared impossible, although it was to be rated finally only 5.10a. >It was at this point that Dave Austin decided to administer a salutory dose of technical hygiene. Backed by experience he had gained on A Mother’s Lament, Austin realized the use of chalk was anathema to advanced foonting* because the particles that fell down from his hands destroyed adhesion between shoe rubber and the smooth rock surface. After recruiting Chris Cantwell and me from the Lodge parking lot, Austin now added pitches three through eight to a route renamed the Hall of Mirrors. Even with the aid of fixed ropes and siege tactics, however, we were unable to complete the Unfinished Ninth, a pitch that was eventually to be rated 5.12b. >Accompanied at one time or another by either Scott Cole or Scott Burk, Cantwell took over the lead. In the fall of 1979 he had obtained a prototype pair of “Contacts,” a new softer rubber shoe by Galibier that permitted better friction on higher-angle stone. He finished the Ninth and, over the next year, undaunted by storms and earthquakes, pushed the route up to the base of the 13th pitch. Here he decided, after drilling a few miraculous bolts up a nearly vertical prow, that a bolt ladder was finally necessary. >However, when Austin accompanied Cantwell up the fixed lines to this new high point, there was disagreement. Austin believed that following a ramp a few feet to the right would have eliminated the need for a ladder. Drilling could have been accomplished from all-natural stances, Austin argued. But in order to make the line harder for the sake of difficulty as an end in itself, Cantwell had refused to compromise with the natural rock environment and, instead, had deliberately chosen to construct a pre-placed “free ladder” up what he referred to as the “line of strength.” Feeling such tactics were unconscionable, Austin elected to drop out. Still, Cantwell persevered. After freeing the 13th, at a tentative 5.13 standard, he went on to add two more hard pitches before intercepting the Coonyard to Rim route. On this final push, in September 1980, Scott Burke was his partner. >Before they were freed, Half Dome and the west face of El Capitan had been conventional aid routes for over twenty years. The rationale behind freeing the northwest face of Half Dome was based on the fact that it was America’s first grade six. But Hall of Mirrors was the first time a Yosemite grade six had been conceived of as a free climb from its inception. However, it is especially significant that the Cantwell-Austin break underscores the conflicting face-climbing traditions that were introduced at the start of this article. Cantwell wished to maximize difficulty by constructing a well-protected free line, while Austin wished to preserve boldness by following the natural line of greatest weakness. >* Foonting is a technical Yosemite term used in friction climbing. It involves “smearing” on high-angle slabs while rapidly “padding” upward; moving up, in essence, faster than moving back down. ### References [1] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198204100/Method-and-Madness-Evolution-of-Yosemite-Face-Climbing-Standards](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198204100/Method-and-Madness-Evolution-of-Yosemite-Face-Climbing-Standards) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1 +1,18 @@ - +>The history of the Hall of Mirrors is now fairly well known. Between 1976 and September 1980, the route grew by a process of accretion, countless attempts by different teams involving various and often enough conflicting personalities. However, for the sake of convenience, the growth of the route may be divided into three distinct stages, dominated, in succession, by the skills and philosophies of three different prime motivators, Mark Wilford, Dave Austin, and Chris Cantwell. Every advance up the wall was likewise preceded by some major change in equipment, technique, or strategy. These include siege climbing from portaledges, the provisional use of aid chains, and the appearance of the Galibier “Contact” shoe, with its softer, more malleable, and adhesive rubber. + +>During the drought of 1976-77, Mark Wilford of Colorado Springs established the route’s first two pitches, titling his effort The Opening of Misty Beethoven, after a highly overrated, though somewhat programmatic, pornographic film. After such an ambitious beginning, it is not clear why he stopped so soon. But the route is highly tempermental at best, and its conditions were undoubtedly at their greasiest after a scorching, bone- dry summer. By self-admission, Wilford had never friction climbed before either. He had no way of knowing in advance that using chalk would increase the rating of the second pitch several additional grades. So, the hypothetical third pitch must have appeared impossible, although it was to be rated finally only 5.10a. + +>It was at this point that Dave Austin decided to administer a salutory dose of technical hygiene. Backed by experience he had gained on A Mother’s Lament, Austin realized the use of chalk was anathema to advanced foonting* because the particles that fell down from his hands destroyed adhesion between shoe rubber and the smooth rock surface. After recruiting Chris Cantwell and me from the Lodge parking lot, Austin now added pitches three through eight to a route renamed the Hall of Mirrors. Even with the aid of fixed ropes and siege tactics, however, we were unable to complete the Unfinished Ninth, a pitch that was eventually to be rated 5.12b. + +>Accompanied at one time or another by either Scott Cole or Scott Burk, Cantwell took over the lead. In the fall of 1979 he had obtained a prototype pair of “Contacts,” a new softer rubber shoe by Galibier that permitted better friction on higher-angle stone. He finished the Ninth and, over the next year, undaunted by storms and earthquakes, pushed the route up to the base of the 13th pitch. Here he decided, after drilling a few miraculous bolts up a nearly vertical prow, that a bolt ladder was finally necessary. + +>However, when Austin accompanied Cantwell up the fixed lines to this new high point, there was disagreement. Austin believed that following a ramp a few feet to the right would have eliminated the need for a ladder. Drilling could have been accomplished from all-natural stances, Austin argued. But in order to make the line harder for the sake of difficulty as an end in itself, Cantwell had refused to compromise with the natural rock environment and, instead, had deliberately chosen to construct a pre-placed “free ladder” up what he referred to as the “line of strength.” Feeling such tactics were unconscionable, Austin elected to drop out. Still, Cantwell persevered. After freeing the 13th, at a tentative 5.13 standard, he went on to add two more hard pitches before intercepting the Coonyard to Rim route. On this final push, in September 1980, Scott Burke was his partner. + +>Before they were freed, Half Dome and the west face of El Capitan had been conventional aid routes for over twenty years. The rationale behind freeing the northwest face of Half Dome was based on the fact that it was America’s first grade six. But Hall of Mirrors was the first time a Yosemite grade six had been conceived of as a free climb from its inception. However, it is especially significant that the Cantwell-Austin break underscores the conflicting face-climbing traditions that were introduced at the start of this article. Cantwell wished to maximize difficulty by constructing a well-protected free line, while Austin wished to preserve boldness by following the natural line of greatest weakness. + +>* Foonting is a technical Yosemite term used in friction climbing. It involves “smearing” on high-angle slabs while rapidly “padding” upward; moving up, in essence, faster than moving back down. + + +### References + +[1] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198204100/Method-and-Madness-Evolution-of-Yosemite-Face-Climbing-Standards](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198204100/Method-and-Madness-Evolution-of-Yosemite-Face-Climbing-Standards)
16199	10th September 2025	10:59:31 UTC	Mono	ascent	Jonny Woodward's ascent of Hall of Mirrors	notes_pretty
Before <p>On the initial SA probe with JW we found that every hanger had been removed from pitch 13 by the FA party. That posed a problem we hadn't accounted for by bringing a bunch of 1/4" hangers with us. The bolts were threaded but we were unable to make wires work behind some of the nuts (and we didn't have enough small wires anyway). JW later went back with Bercaw and re-equiped the remaining pitches so he could then do a clean one push ascent. Guaranteed, JW did all pitches clean on the SA.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/527185/hall-of-mirrors">http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/527185/hall-of-mirrors</a></p> After <blockquote> <p>On the initial SA probe with JW we found that every hanger had been removed from pitch 13 by the FA party. That posed a problem we hadn't accounted for by bringing a bunch of 1/4" hangers with us. The bolts were threaded but we were unable to make wires work behind some of the nuts (and we didn't have enough small wires anyway). JW later went back with Bercaw and re-equiped the remaining pitches so he could then do a clean one push ascent. Guaranteed, JW did all pitches clean on the SA.</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/527185/hall-of-mirrors">http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/527185/hall-of-mirrors</a></p>
16200	10th September 2025	10:59:31 UTC	Mono	ascent	Jonny Woodward's ascent of Hall of Mirrors	notes
Before On the initial SA probe with JW we found that every hanger had been removed from pitch 13 by the FA party. That posed a problem we hadn't accounted for by bringing a bunch of 1/4" hangers with us. The bolts were threaded but we were unable to make wires work behind some of the nuts (and we didn't have enough small wires anyway). JW later went back with Bercaw and re-equiped the remaining pitches so he could then do a clean one push ascent. Guaranteed, JW did all pitches clean on the SA. ### References [1] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/527185/hall-of-mirrors](http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/527185/hall-of-mirrors) After >On the initial SA probe with JW we found that every hanger had been removed from pitch 13 by the FA party. That posed a problem we hadn't accounted for by bringing a bunch of 1/4" hangers with us. The bolts were threaded but we were unable to make wires work behind some of the nuts (and we didn't have enough small wires anyway). JW later went back with Bercaw and re-equiped the remaining pitches so he could then do a clean one push ascent. Guaranteed, JW did all pitches clean on the SA. ### References [1] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/527185/hall-of-mirrors](http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/527185/hall-of-mirrors) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,4 +1,4 @@ -On the initial SA probe with JW we found that every hanger had been removed from pitch 13 by the FA party. That posed a problem we hadn't accounted for by bringing a bunch of 1/4" hangers with us. The bolts were threaded but we were unable to make wires work behind some of the nuts (and we didn't have enough small wires anyway). JW later went back with Bercaw and re-equiped the remaining pitches so he could then do a clean one push ascent. Guaranteed, JW did all pitches clean on the SA. +>On the initial SA probe with JW we found that every hanger had been removed from pitch 13 by the FA party. That posed a problem we hadn't accounted for by bringing a bunch of 1/4" hangers with us. The bolts were threaded but we were unable to make wires work behind some of the nuts (and we didn't have enough small wires anyway). JW later went back with Bercaw and re-equiped the remaining pitches so he could then do a clean one push ascent. Guaranteed, JW did all pitches clean on the SA. ### References

Before

None

After

false

Before

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After

Jeff Lowe

Before

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After

1

Before

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1

Before

None

After

<p>Originally 5.13b</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The 'theft' of the climb's first free ascent in the early 90s and attendant bolting controversies reputedly set free climbing in Zion back a decade. Through many subsequent ascents, both free and 'clean aid', the route has become easier than it was when Peter Croft and Jonny Woodward first freed it. The placing and removal and weighting of hundreds of cams has eroded the sandstone, widening the cracks. What was once a fingertip layback in the dihedral is now studded with apertures that accept at least a knuckle. The walls are scratched and whitened by the hauling of bags. We did our best, depositing our supplies by abseil rather than hauling, but our ascent still made a contribution to the wear. The route is compromised, and so are we; it is only the easing of difficulty that brought it close to our ability in the first place.(1)</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/moonlight_buttress-12928">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/moonlight_buttress-12928</a></p>

Before

None

After

Originally 5.13b

>The 'theft' of the climb's first free ascent in the early 90s and attendant bolting controversies reputedly set free climbing in Zion back a decade. Through many subsequent ascents, both free and 'clean aid', the route has become easier than it was when Peter Croft and Jonny Woodward first freed it. The placing and removal and weighting of hundreds of cams has eroded the sandstone, widening the cracks. What was once a fingertip layback in the dihedral is now studded with apertures that accept at least a knuckle. The walls are scratched and whitened by the hauling of bags. We did our best, depositing our supplies by abseil rather than hauling, but our ascent still made a contribution to the wear. The route is compromised, and so are we; it is only the easing of difficulty that brought it close to our ability in the first place.(1)

### References

[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/moonlight_buttress-12928](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/moonlight_buttress-12928)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1 +1,7 @@

-
+Originally 5.13b

+

+>The 'theft' of the climb's first free ascent in the early 90s and attendant bolting controversies reputedly set free climbing in Zion back a decade. Through many subsequent ascents, both free and 'clean aid', the route has become easier than it was when Peter Croft and Jonny Woodward first freed it. The placing and removal and weighting of hundreds of cams has eroded the sandstone, widening the cracks. What was once a fingertip layback in the dihedral is now studded with apertures that accept at least a knuckle. The walls are scratched and whitened by the hauling of bags. We did our best, depositing our supplies by abseil rather than hauling, but our ascent still made a contribution to the wear. The route is compromised, and so are we; it is only the easing of difficulty that brought it close to our ability in the first place.(1)

+

+### References

+

+[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/moonlight_buttress-12928](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/moonlight_buttress-12928)

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79

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Gaskins' Problem

Before

Gaskins' Problem

After

Pill Box Wall

Before

<p>Incorrectly marked as Gaskin's Problem in early bouldering guides.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Gaskins problem at Almscliff turned out not to be a Gaskins problem after all. Renamed Identity Crisis - FA Tim Clifford (2002), still only had one repeat I think from Stew Watson? Think both thought more 8A than 8A+ (but it's a bit reach dependent).</p>
<p>The problem John Gaskins climbed back in 1993 was actually "Cherry Falls Right" - ie: get the Cherry Falls crimp with LH, match as best as possible with R and go again with R straight for break. Dunno if it's been repeated. Probably somewhere in the 8A - 8A+ ish range. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://ukbouldering.com/threads/elite-ukbouldering-inventory-re-boot.20589/page-5#post-373074">https://ukbouldering.com/threads/elite-ukbouldering-inventory-re-boot.20589/page-5#post-373074</a></p>

After

<p>Incorrectly marked as Gaskins' Problem in early bouldering guides.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Gaskins problem at Almscliff turned out not to be a Gaskins problem after all. Renamed Identity Crisis - FA Tim Clifford (2002), still only had one repeat I think from Stew Watson? Think both thought more 8A than 8A+ (but it's a bit reach dependent).</p>
<p>The problem John Gaskins climbed back in 1993 was actually "Cherry Falls Right" - ie: get the Cherry Falls crimp with LH, match as best as possible with R and go again with R straight for break. Dunno if it's been repeated. Probably somewhere in the 8A - 8A+ ish range. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://ukbouldering.com/threads/elite-ukbouldering-inventory-re-boot.20589/page-5#post-373074">https://ukbouldering.com/threads/elite-ukbouldering-inventory-re-boot.20589/page-5#post-373074</a></p>

Before

Incorrectly marked as Gaskin's Problem in early bouldering guides.

>Gaskins problem at Almscliff turned out not to be a Gaskins problem after all. Renamed Identity Crisis - FA Tim Clifford (2002), still only had one repeat I think from Stew Watson? Think both thought more 8A than 8A+ (but it's a bit reach dependent).

>The problem John Gaskins climbed back in 1993 was actually "Cherry Falls Right" - ie: get the Cherry Falls crimp with LH, match as best as possible with R and go again with R straight for break. Dunno if it's been repeated. Probably somewhere in the 8A - 8A+ ish range. [1]

### References

[1] [https://ukbouldering.com/threads/elite-ukbouldering-inventory-re-boot.20589/page-5#post-373074](https://ukbouldering.com/threads/elite-ukbouldering-inventory-re-boot.20589/page-5#post-373074)

After

Incorrectly marked as Gaskins' Problem in early bouldering guides.

>Gaskins problem at Almscliff turned out not to be a Gaskins problem after all. Renamed Identity Crisis - FA Tim Clifford (2002), still only had one repeat I think from Stew Watson? Think both thought more 8A than 8A+ (but it's a bit reach dependent).

>The problem John Gaskins climbed back in 1993 was actually "Cherry Falls Right" - ie: get the Cherry Falls crimp with LH, match as best as possible with R and go again with R straight for break. Dunno if it's been repeated. Probably somewhere in the 8A - 8A+ ish range. [1]

### References

[1] [https://ukbouldering.com/threads/elite-ukbouldering-inventory-re-boot.20589/page-5#post-373074](https://ukbouldering.com/threads/elite-ukbouldering-inventory-re-boot.20589/page-5#post-373074)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@

-Incorrectly marked as Gaskin's Problem in early bouldering guides.

+Incorrectly marked as Gaskins' Problem in early bouldering guides.

 

 >Gaskins problem at Almscliff turned out not to be a Gaskins problem after all. Renamed Identity Crisis - FA Tim Clifford (2002), still only had one repeat I think from Stew Watson? Think both thought more 8A than 8A+ (but it's a bit reach dependent).

Before

None

After

Gaskins' Problem

Before

<p>A clean one-push ascent. </p>
<p>In EBs, which Jonny found to be better for the route's micro-edges than softer sticky rubber.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Starting late, we made it to the top of the 13th and bailed as planned, leaving all our lines fixed. From my experience in the spring, I was convinced that the route's full-body-weight edgy smearing was not possible in flexible shoes, but despite my best derisive comments, John had stubbornly pulled out a pair of his favorite floppies and proceeded to fire past every crux with little apparent effort. Christ, I hope he never tries his edging boots. Best to compliment his choice of footwear and keep him handicapped.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Johnny's full account of the ascent was published in 'Climbing' magazine and has been reproduced on Supertopo. (1)</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527185&amp;tn=20">http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527185&amp;tn=20</a></p>

After

<p>A clean one-push ascent. </p>
<p>In EBs, which Jonny found to be better for the route's micro-edges than softer sticky rubber.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>From my experience in the spring, I was convinced that the route's full-body-weight edgy smearing was not possible in flexible shoes, but despite my best derisive comments, John had stubbornly pulled out a pair of his favorite floppies and proceeded to fire past every crux with little apparent effort. Christ, I hope he never tries his edging boots. Best to compliment his choice of footwear and keep him handicapped.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Johnny's full account of the ascent was published in 'Climbing' magazine and has been reproduced on Supertopo. (1)</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527185&amp;tn=20">http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527185&amp;tn=20</a></p>

Before

A clean one-push ascent. 

In EBs, which Jonny found to be better for the route's micro-edges than softer sticky rubber.

>Starting late, we made it to the top of the 13th and bailed as planned, leaving all our lines fixed. From my experience in the spring, I was convinced that the route's full-body-weight edgy smearing was not possible in flexible shoes, but despite my best derisive comments, John had stubbornly pulled out a pair of his favorite floppies and proceeded to fire past every crux with little apparent effort. Christ, I hope he never tries his edging boots. Best to compliment his choice of footwear and keep him handicapped.

Johnny's full account of the ascent was published in 'Climbing' magazine and has been reproduced on Supertopo. (1)

### References

[1] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527185&tn=20](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527185&tn=20)

After

A clean one-push ascent. 

In EBs, which Jonny found to be better for the route's micro-edges than softer sticky rubber.

>From my experience in the spring, I was convinced that the route's full-body-weight edgy smearing was not possible in flexible shoes, but despite my best derisive comments, John had stubbornly pulled out a pair of his favorite floppies and proceeded to fire past every crux with little apparent effort. Christ, I hope he never tries his edging boots. Best to compliment his choice of footwear and keep him handicapped.

Johnny's full account of the ascent was published in 'Climbing' magazine and has been reproduced on Supertopo. (1)

### References

[1] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527185&tn=20](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527185&tn=20)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -2,7 +2,7 @@

 

 In EBs, which Jonny found to be better for the route's micro-edges than softer sticky rubber.

 

->Starting late, we made it to the top of the 13th and bailed as planned, leaving all our lines fixed. From my experience in the spring, I was convinced that the route's full-body-weight edgy smearing was not possible in flexible shoes, but despite my best derisive comments, John had stubbornly pulled out a pair of his favorite floppies and proceeded to fire past every crux with little apparent effort. Christ, I hope he never tries his edging boots. Best to compliment his choice of footwear and keep him handicapped.

+>From my experience in the spring, I was convinced that the route's full-body-weight edgy smearing was not possible in flexible shoes, but despite my best derisive comments, John had stubbornly pulled out a pair of his favorite floppies and proceeded to fire past every crux with little apparent effort. Christ, I hope he never tries his edging boots. Best to compliment his choice of footwear and keep him handicapped.

 

 Johnny's full account of the ascent was published in 'Climbing' magazine and has been reproduced on Supertopo. (1)

Before

<blockquote>
<p>On the initial SA probe with JW we found that every hanger had been removed from pitch 13 by the FA party. That posed a problem we hadn't accounted for by bringing a bunch of 1/4" hangers with us. The bolts were threaded but we were unable to make wires work behind some of the nuts (and we didn't have enough small wires anyway). JW later went back with Bercaw and re-equiped the remaining pitches so he could then do a clean one push ascent. Guaranteed, JW did all pitches clean on the SA.</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/527185/hall-of-mirrors">http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/527185/hall-of-mirrors</a></p>

After

<p>A clean one-push ascent. </p>
<p>In EBs, which Jonny found to be better for the route's micro-edges than softer sticky rubber.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Starting late, we made it to the top of the 13th and bailed as planned, leaving all our lines fixed. From my experience in the spring, I was convinced that the route's full-body-weight edgy smearing was not possible in flexible shoes, but despite my best derisive comments, John had stubbornly pulled out a pair of his favorite floppies and proceeded to fire past every crux with little apparent effort. Christ, I hope he never tries his edging boots. Best to compliment his choice of footwear and keep him handicapped.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Johnny's full account of the ascent was published in 'Climbing' magazine and has been reproduced on Supertopo. (1)</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527185&amp;tn=20">http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527185&amp;tn=20</a></p>

Before

>On the initial SA probe with JW we found that every hanger had been removed from pitch 13 by the FA party. That posed a problem we hadn't accounted for by bringing a bunch of 1/4" hangers with us. The bolts were threaded but we were unable to make wires work behind some of the nuts (and we didn't have enough small wires anyway). JW later went back with Bercaw and re-equiped the remaining pitches so he could then do a clean one push ascent. Guaranteed, JW did all pitches clean on the SA.

### References

[1] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/527185/hall-of-mirrors](http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/527185/hall-of-mirrors)

After

A clean one-push ascent. 

In EBs, which Jonny found to be better for the route's micro-edges than softer sticky rubber.

>Starting late, we made it to the top of the 13th and bailed as planned, leaving all our lines fixed. From my experience in the spring, I was convinced that the route's full-body-weight edgy smearing was not possible in flexible shoes, but despite my best derisive comments, John had stubbornly pulled out a pair of his favorite floppies and proceeded to fire past every crux with little apparent effort. Christ, I hope he never tries his edging boots. Best to compliment his choice of footwear and keep him handicapped.

Johnny's full account of the ascent was published in 'Climbing' magazine and has been reproduced on Supertopo. (1)

### References

[1] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527185&tn=20](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527185&tn=20)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,5 +1,11 @@

->On the initial SA probe with JW we found that every hanger had been removed from pitch 13 by the FA party. That posed a problem we hadn't accounted for by bringing a bunch of 1/4" hangers with us. The bolts were threaded but we were unable to make wires work behind some of the nuts (and we didn't have enough small wires anyway). JW later went back with Bercaw and re-equiped the remaining pitches so he could then do a clean one push ascent. Guaranteed, JW did all pitches clean on the SA.

+A clean one-push ascent. 

+

+In EBs, which Jonny found to be better for the route's micro-edges than softer sticky rubber.

+

+>Starting late, we made it to the top of the 13th and bailed as planned, leaving all our lines fixed. From my experience in the spring, I was convinced that the route's full-body-weight edgy smearing was not possible in flexible shoes, but despite my best derisive comments, John had stubbornly pulled out a pair of his favorite floppies and proceeded to fire past every crux with little apparent effort. Christ, I hope he never tries his edging boots. Best to compliment his choice of footwear and keep him handicapped.

+

+Johnny's full account of the ascent was published in 'Climbing' magazine and has been reproduced on Supertopo. (1)

 

 ### References

 

-[1] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/527185/hall-of-mirrors](http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/527185/hall-of-mirrors)
+[1] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527185&tn=20](http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527185&tn=20)

Before

None

After

<blockquote>
<p>The history of the Hall of Mirrors is now fairly well known. Between 1976 and September 1980, the route grew by a process of accretion, countless attempts by different teams involving various and often enough conflicting personalities. However, for the sake of convenience, the growth of the route may be divided into three distinct stages, dominated, in succession, by the skills and philosophies of three different prime motivators, Mark Wilford, Dave Austin, and Chris Cantwell. Every advance up the wall was likewise preceded by some major change in equipment, technique, or strategy. These include siege climbing from portaledges, the provisional use of aid chains, and the appearance of the Galibier “Contact” shoe, with its softer, more malleable, and adhesive rubber.</p>
<p>During the drought of 1976-77, Mark Wilford of Colorado Springs established the route’s first two pitches, titling his effort The Opening of Misty Beethoven, after a highly overrated, though somewhat programmatic, pornographic film. After such an ambitious beginning, it is not clear why he stopped so soon. But the route is highly tempermental at best, and its conditions were undoubtedly at their greasiest after a scorching, bone- dry summer. By self-admission, Wilford had never friction climbed before either. He had no way of knowing in advance that using chalk would increase the rating of the second pitch several additional grades. So, the hypothetical third pitch must have appeared impossible, although it was to be rated finally only 5.10a.</p>
<p>It was at this point that Dave Austin decided to administer a salutory dose of technical hygiene. Backed by experience he had gained on A Mother’s Lament, Austin realized the use of chalk was anathema to advanced foonting* because the particles that fell down from his hands destroyed adhesion between shoe rubber and the smooth rock surface. After recruiting Chris Cantwell and me from the Lodge parking lot, Austin now added pitches three through eight to a route renamed the Hall of Mirrors. Even with the aid of fixed ropes and siege tactics, however, we were unable to complete the Unfinished Ninth, a pitch that was eventually to be rated 5.12b.</p>
<p>Accompanied at one time or another by either Scott Cole or Scott Burk, Cantwell took over the lead. In the fall of 1979 he had obtained a prototype pair of “Contacts,” a new softer rubber shoe by Galibier that permitted better friction on higher-angle stone. He finished the Ninth and, over the next year, undaunted by storms and earthquakes, pushed the route up to the base of the 13th pitch. Here he decided, after drilling a few miraculous bolts up a nearly vertical prow, that a bolt ladder was finally necessary.</p>
<p>However, when Austin accompanied Cantwell up the fixed lines to this new high point, there was disagreement. Austin believed that following a ramp a few feet to the right would have eliminated the need for a ladder. Drilling could have been accomplished from all-natural stances, Austin argued. But in order to make the line harder for the sake of difficulty as an end in itself, Cantwell had refused to compromise with the natural rock environment and, instead, had deliberately chosen to construct a pre-placed “free ladder” up what he referred to as the “line of strength.” Feeling such tactics were unconscionable, Austin elected to drop out. Still, Cantwell persevered. After freeing the 13th, at a tentative 5.13 standard, he went on to add two more hard pitches before intercepting the Coonyard to Rim route. On this final push, in September 1980, Scott Burke was his partner.</p>
<p>Before they were freed, Half Dome and the west face of El Capitan had been conventional aid routes for over twenty years. The rationale behind freeing the northwest face of Half Dome was based on the fact that it was America’s first grade six. But Hall of Mirrors was the first time a Yosemite grade six had been conceived of as a free climb from its inception. However, it is especially significant that the Cantwell-Austin break underscores the conflicting face-climbing traditions that were introduced at the start of this article. Cantwell wished to maximize difficulty by constructing a well-protected free line, while Austin wished to preserve boldness by following the natural line of greatest weakness.</p>
<ul>
<li>Foonting is a technical Yosemite term used in friction climbing. It involves “smearing” on high-angle slabs while rapidly “padding” upward; moving up, in essence, faster than moving back down.</li>
</ul>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198204100/Method-and-Madness-Evolution-of-Yosemite-Face-Climbing-Standards">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198204100/Method-and-Madness-Evolution-of-Yosemite-Face-Climbing-Standards</a></p>

Before

None

After

>The history of the Hall of Mirrors is now fairly well known. Between 1976 and September 1980, the route grew by a process of accretion, countless attempts by different teams involving various and often enough conflicting personalities. However, for the sake of convenience, the growth of the route may be divided into three distinct stages, dominated, in succession, by the skills and philosophies of three different prime motivators, Mark Wilford, Dave Austin, and Chris Cantwell. Every advance up the wall was likewise preceded by some major change in equipment, technique, or strategy. These include siege climbing from portaledges, the provisional use of aid chains, and the appearance of the Galibier “Contact” shoe, with its softer, more malleable, and adhesive rubber.

>During the drought of 1976-77, Mark Wilford of Colorado Springs established the route’s first two pitches, titling his effort The Opening of Misty Beethoven, after a highly overrated, though somewhat programmatic, pornographic film. After such an ambitious beginning, it is not clear why he stopped so soon. But the route is highly tempermental at best, and its conditions were undoubtedly at their greasiest after a scorching, bone- dry summer. By self-admission, Wilford had never friction climbed before either. He had no way of knowing in advance that using chalk would increase the rating of the second pitch several additional grades. So, the hypothetical third pitch must have appeared impossible, although it was to be rated finally only 5.10a.

>It was at this point that Dave Austin decided to administer a salutory dose of technical hygiene. Backed by experience he had gained on A Mother’s Lament, Austin realized the use of chalk was anathema to advanced foonting* because the particles that fell down from his hands destroyed adhesion between shoe rubber and the smooth rock surface. After recruiting Chris Cantwell and me from the Lodge parking lot, Austin now added pitches three through eight to a route renamed the Hall of Mirrors. Even with the aid of fixed ropes and siege tactics, however, we were unable to complete the Unfinished Ninth, a pitch that was eventually to be rated 5.12b.

>Accompanied at one time or another by either Scott Cole or Scott Burk, Cantwell took over the lead. In the fall of 1979 he had obtained a prototype pair of “Contacts,” a new softer rubber shoe by Galibier that permitted better friction on higher-angle stone. He finished the Ninth and, over the next year, undaunted by storms and earthquakes, pushed the route up to the base of the 13th pitch. Here he decided, after drilling a few miraculous bolts up a nearly vertical prow, that a bolt ladder was finally necessary.

>However, when Austin accompanied Cantwell up the fixed lines to this new high point, there was disagreement. Austin believed that following a ramp a few feet to the right would have eliminated the need for a ladder. Drilling could have been accomplished from all-natural stances, Austin argued. But in order to make the line harder for the sake of difficulty as an end in itself, Cantwell had refused to compromise with the natural rock environment and, instead, had deliberately chosen to construct a pre-placed “free ladder” up what he referred to as the “line of strength.” Feeling such tactics were unconscionable, Austin elected to drop out. Still, Cantwell persevered. After freeing the 13th, at a tentative 5.13 standard, he went on to add two more hard pitches before intercepting the Coonyard to Rim route. On this final push, in September 1980, Scott Burke was his partner.

>Before they were freed, Half Dome and the west face of El Capitan had been conventional aid routes for over twenty years. The rationale behind freeing the northwest face of Half Dome was based on the fact that it was America’s first grade six. But Hall of Mirrors was the first time a Yosemite grade six had been conceived of as a free climb from its inception. However, it is especially significant that the Cantwell-Austin break underscores the conflicting face-climbing traditions that were introduced at the start of this article. Cantwell wished to maximize difficulty by constructing a well-protected free line, while Austin wished to preserve boldness by following the natural line of greatest weakness.

>* Foonting is a technical Yosemite term used in friction climbing. It involves “smearing” on high-angle slabs while rapidly “padding” upward; moving up, in essence, faster than moving back down.


### References

[1] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198204100/Method-and-Madness-Evolution-of-Yosemite-Face-Climbing-Standards](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198204100/Method-and-Madness-Evolution-of-Yosemite-Face-Climbing-Standards)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1 +1,18 @@

-
+>The history of the Hall of Mirrors is now fairly well known. Between 1976 and September 1980, the route grew by a process of accretion, countless attempts by different teams involving various and often enough conflicting personalities. However, for the sake of convenience, the growth of the route may be divided into three distinct stages, dominated, in succession, by the skills and philosophies of three different prime motivators, Mark Wilford, Dave Austin, and Chris Cantwell. Every advance up the wall was likewise preceded by some major change in equipment, technique, or strategy. These include siege climbing from portaledges, the provisional use of aid chains, and the appearance of the Galibier “Contact” shoe, with its softer, more malleable, and adhesive rubber.

+

+>During the drought of 1976-77, Mark Wilford of Colorado Springs established the route’s first two pitches, titling his effort The Opening of Misty Beethoven, after a highly overrated, though somewhat programmatic, pornographic film. After such an ambitious beginning, it is not clear why he stopped so soon. But the route is highly tempermental at best, and its conditions were undoubtedly at their greasiest after a scorching, bone- dry summer. By self-admission, Wilford had never friction climbed before either. He had no way of knowing in advance that using chalk would increase the rating of the second pitch several additional grades. So, the hypothetical third pitch must have appeared impossible, although it was to be rated finally only 5.10a.

+

+>It was at this point that Dave Austin decided to administer a salutory dose of technical hygiene. Backed by experience he had gained on A Mother’s Lament, Austin realized the use of chalk was anathema to advanced foonting* because the particles that fell down from his hands destroyed adhesion between shoe rubber and the smooth rock surface. After recruiting Chris Cantwell and me from the Lodge parking lot, Austin now added pitches three through eight to a route renamed the Hall of Mirrors. Even with the aid of fixed ropes and siege tactics, however, we were unable to complete the Unfinished Ninth, a pitch that was eventually to be rated 5.12b.

+

+>Accompanied at one time or another by either Scott Cole or Scott Burk, Cantwell took over the lead. In the fall of 1979 he had obtained a prototype pair of “Contacts,” a new softer rubber shoe by Galibier that permitted better friction on higher-angle stone. He finished the Ninth and, over the next year, undaunted by storms and earthquakes, pushed the route up to the base of the 13th pitch. Here he decided, after drilling a few miraculous bolts up a nearly vertical prow, that a bolt ladder was finally necessary.

+

+>However, when Austin accompanied Cantwell up the fixed lines to this new high point, there was disagreement. Austin believed that following a ramp a few feet to the right would have eliminated the need for a ladder. Drilling could have been accomplished from all-natural stances, Austin argued. But in order to make the line harder for the sake of difficulty as an end in itself, Cantwell had refused to compromise with the natural rock environment and, instead, had deliberately chosen to construct a pre-placed “free ladder” up what he referred to as the “line of strength.” Feeling such tactics were unconscionable, Austin elected to drop out. Still, Cantwell persevered. After freeing the 13th, at a tentative 5.13 standard, he went on to add two more hard pitches before intercepting the Coonyard to Rim route. On this final push, in September 1980, Scott Burke was his partner.

+

+>Before they were freed, Half Dome and the west face of El Capitan had been conventional aid routes for over twenty years. The rationale behind freeing the northwest face of Half Dome was based on the fact that it was America’s first grade six. But Hall of Mirrors was the first time a Yosemite grade six had been conceived of as a free climb from its inception. However, it is especially significant that the Cantwell-Austin break underscores the conflicting face-climbing traditions that were introduced at the start of this article. Cantwell wished to maximize difficulty by constructing a well-protected free line, while Austin wished to preserve boldness by following the natural line of greatest weakness.

+

+>* Foonting is a technical Yosemite term used in friction climbing. It involves “smearing” on high-angle slabs while rapidly “padding” upward; moving up, in essence, faster than moving back down.

+

+

+### References

+

+[1] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198204100/Method-and-Madness-Evolution-of-Yosemite-Face-Climbing-Standards](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198204100/Method-and-Madness-Evolution-of-Yosemite-Face-Climbing-Standards)

Before

<p>On the initial SA probe with JW we found that every hanger had been removed from pitch 13 by the FA party. That posed a problem we hadn't accounted for by bringing a bunch of 1/4" hangers with us. The bolts were threaded but we were unable to make wires work behind some of the nuts (and we didn't have enough small wires anyway). JW later went back with Bercaw and re-equiped the remaining pitches so he could then do a clean one push ascent. Guaranteed, JW did all pitches clean on the SA.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/527185/hall-of-mirrors">http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/527185/hall-of-mirrors</a></p>

After

<blockquote>
<p>On the initial SA probe with JW we found that every hanger had been removed from pitch 13 by the FA party. That posed a problem we hadn't accounted for by bringing a bunch of 1/4" hangers with us. The bolts were threaded but we were unable to make wires work behind some of the nuts (and we didn't have enough small wires anyway). JW later went back with Bercaw and re-equiped the remaining pitches so he could then do a clean one push ascent. Guaranteed, JW did all pitches clean on the SA.</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/527185/hall-of-mirrors">http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/527185/hall-of-mirrors</a></p>

Before

On the initial SA probe with JW we found that every hanger had been removed from pitch 13 by the FA party. That posed a problem we hadn't accounted for by bringing a bunch of 1/4" hangers with us. The bolts were threaded but we were unable to make wires work behind some of the nuts (and we didn't have enough small wires anyway). JW later went back with Bercaw and re-equiped the remaining pitches so he could then do a clean one push ascent. Guaranteed, JW did all pitches clean on the SA.

### References

[1] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/527185/hall-of-mirrors](http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/527185/hall-of-mirrors)

After

>On the initial SA probe with JW we found that every hanger had been removed from pitch 13 by the FA party. That posed a problem we hadn't accounted for by bringing a bunch of 1/4" hangers with us. The bolts were threaded but we were unable to make wires work behind some of the nuts (and we didn't have enough small wires anyway). JW later went back with Bercaw and re-equiped the remaining pitches so he could then do a clean one push ascent. Guaranteed, JW did all pitches clean on the SA.

### References

[1] [http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/527185/hall-of-mirrors](http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/527185/hall-of-mirrors)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@

-On the initial SA probe with JW we found that every hanger had been removed from pitch 13 by the FA party. That posed a problem we hadn't accounted for by bringing a bunch of 1/4" hangers with us. The bolts were threaded but we were unable to make wires work behind some of the nuts (and we didn't have enough small wires anyway). JW later went back with Bercaw and re-equiped the remaining pitches so he could then do a clean one push ascent. Guaranteed, JW did all pitches clean on the SA.

+>On the initial SA probe with JW we found that every hanger had been removed from pitch 13 by the FA party. That posed a problem we hadn't accounted for by bringing a bunch of 1/4" hangers with us. The bolts were threaded but we were unable to make wires work behind some of the nuts (and we didn't have enough small wires anyway). JW later went back with Bercaw and re-equiped the remaining pitches so he could then do a clean one push ascent. Guaranteed, JW did all pitches clean on the SA.

 

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