Mono

	Country	Contributions	Between	Climbers	Crags	Climbs	Ascents
1	United Kingdom	11148	22nd May 2025 – 16th September 2026	114	13	586	1083
2	France	3430	22nd May 2025 – 29th August 2026	32	13	172	326
3	USA	1770	30th July 2025 – 14th August 2026	26	56	167	88
4	Japan	1478	19th July 2025 – 14th August 2026	14	25	107	73
5	Spain	319	31st July 2025 – 14th August 2026	3	9	35	13
6	Switzerland	229	31st July 2025 – 9th August 2026	2	5	21	15
7	New Zealand	216	19th August 2025 – 14th August 2026	1	1	17	13
8	Canada	170	10th September 2025 – 14th August 2026	1	9	25	3
9	Italy	166	12th August 2025 – 16th August 2026	2	7	19	7
10	Germany	151	8th November 2025 – 6th August 2026	4	6	10	5

	Date	Time	User	Type	Name	Attribute
1381	2nd July 2026	19:35:19 UTC	Mono	climber	Fred Rouhling	notes
Before Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example [De L'Autre Côté du Ciel](/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel)). He is notable for a particularly dynamic styling of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as [Hugh](/climb/46/hugh) (9a) were manufactured to create this style. His route [Akira](/climb/475/akira) was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist. A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by [Sébastien Bouin](/climber/496/sébastien-bouin) and [Lucien Martinez](/climber/498/lucien-martinez). ### References [1] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 1 [https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY](https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY) [2] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 2 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI) [3] The Other Side of Fred Rouhling by Pete Ward, 15th June 2012 [https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/](https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/) [4] Interview with camptocamp.org, October 2008 [https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-](https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-) [5] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?) [6] Interview for On The Edge Issue 102, page 40 After Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example [De L'Autre Côté du Ciel](/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel)). He is notable for a particularly dynamic style of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as [Hugh](/climb/46/hugh) (9a) were manufactured to create this style. His route [Akira](/climb/475/akira) was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist. A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by [Sébastien Bouin](/climber/496/sébastien-bouin) and [Lucien Martinez](/climber/498/lucien-martinez). ### References [1] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 1 [https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY](https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY) [2] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 2 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI) [3] The Other Side of Fred Rouhling by Pete Ward, 15th June 2012 [https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/](https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/) [4] Interview with camptocamp.org, October 2008 [https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-](https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-) [5] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?) [6] Interview for On The Edge Issue 102, page 40 Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,4 +1,4 @@ -Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example [De L'Autre Côté du Ciel](/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel)). He is notable for a particularly dynamic styling of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as [Hugh](/climb/46/hugh) (9a) were manufactured to create this style. +Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example [De L'Autre Côté du Ciel](/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel)). He is notable for a particularly dynamic style of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as [Hugh](/climb/46/hugh) (9a) were manufactured to create this style. His route [Akira](/climb/475/akira) was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist.
1382	2nd July 2026	17:20:40 UTC	Mono	climb	L’Ombre du Voyageur	notes_pretty
Before <p><em>L’Ombre du Voyageur</em> is a roof crack boulder problem in a cave in <a href="/crag/8647/le-saleve" rel="noopener noreferrer">Le Salève</a>, near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section.</p> <p>The line was first spotted by <a href="/climber/542/elie-chevieux" rel="noopener noreferrer">Elie Chevieux</a>, but it had to wait until <a href="/climber/600/charles-albert" rel="noopener noreferrer">Charles Albert</a> started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023.</p> <p>Speculating on the grade, Charles acknowledged it would likely feel significantly easier with shoes and knee pads but suggested 9A would likely be appropriate for an ascent in this 'normal' style. <a href="/climber/1461/pietro-vidi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pietro Vidi</a> then made the second ascent using all the tricks in the book (2 shoes, 4 kneepads (!) and 2 crack gloves) and suggested 8B+ was more appropriate. Given Pietro's ascent is closer to the 'normal' style it seems 8B+ is probably closer to the grade others will experience on this problem.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8</a></p> After <p><em>L’Ombre du Voyageur</em> is a 15m roof crack boulder problem in a cave in <a href="/crag/8647/le-saleve" rel="noopener noreferrer">Le Salève</a>, near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section.</p> <p>The line was first spotted by <a href="/climber/542/elie-chevieux" rel="noopener noreferrer">Elie Chevieux</a>, but it had to wait until <a href="/climber/600/charles-albert" rel="noopener noreferrer">Charles Albert</a> started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023.</p> <p>Speculating on the grade, Charles acknowledged it would likely feel significantly easier with shoes and knee pads but suggested 9A would likely be appropriate for an ascent in this 'normal' style. <a href="/climber/1461/pietro-vidi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pietro Vidi</a> then made the second ascent using all the tricks in the book (2 shoes, 4 kneepads (!) and 2 crack gloves) and suggested 8B+ was more appropriate. Given Pietro's ascent is closer to the 'normal' style it seems 8B+ is probably closer to the grade others will experience on this problem.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8</a></p>
1383	2nd July 2026	17:20:40 UTC	Mono	climb	L’Ombre du Voyageur	notes
Before L’Ombre du Voyageur is a roof crack boulder problem in a cave in [Le Salève](/crag/8647/le-saleve), near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section. The line was first spotted by [Elie Chevieux](/climber/542/elie-chevieux), but it had to wait until [Charles Albert](/climber/600/charles-albert) started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023. Speculating on the grade, Charles acknowledged it would likely feel significantly easier with shoes and knee pads but suggested 9A would likely be appropriate for an ascent in this 'normal' style. [Pietro Vidi](/climber/1461/pietro-vidi) then made the second ascent using all the tricks in the book (2 shoes, 4 kneepads (!) and 2 crack gloves) and suggested 8B+ was more appropriate. Given Pietro's ascent is closer to the 'normal' style it seems 8B+ is probably closer to the grade others will experience on this problem. ### References [1] [https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8](https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8) After L’Ombre du Voyageur is a 15m roof crack boulder problem in a cave in [Le Salève](/crag/8647/le-saleve), near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section. The line was first spotted by [Elie Chevieux](/climber/542/elie-chevieux), but it had to wait until [Charles Albert](/climber/600/charles-albert) started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023. Speculating on the grade, Charles acknowledged it would likely feel significantly easier with shoes and knee pads but suggested 9A would likely be appropriate for an ascent in this 'normal' style. [Pietro Vidi](/climber/1461/pietro-vidi) then made the second ascent using all the tricks in the book (2 shoes, 4 kneepads (!) and 2 crack gloves) and suggested 8B+ was more appropriate. Given Pietro's ascent is closer to the 'normal' style it seems 8B+ is probably closer to the grade others will experience on this problem. ### References [1] [https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8](https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,4 +1,4 @@ -L’Ombre du Voyageur is a roof crack boulder problem in a cave in [Le Salève](/crag/8647/le-saleve), near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section. +L’Ombre du Voyageur is a 15m roof crack boulder problem in a cave in [Le Salève](/crag/8647/le-saleve), near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section. The line was first spotted by [Elie Chevieux](/climber/542/elie-chevieux), but it had to wait until [Charles Albert](/climber/600/charles-albert) started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023.
1384	2nd July 2026	17:19:21 UTC	Mono	climb	L’Ombre du Voyageur	notes_pretty
Before <p><em>L’Ombre du Voyageur</em> is a roof crack boulder problem in a cave in <a href="/crag/8647/le-saleve">Le Salève</a>, near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section.</p> <p>The line was first spotted by <a href="/climber/542/elie-chevieux">Elie Chevieux</a>, but it had to wait until <a href="/climber/600/charles-albert">Charles Albert</a> started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023.</p> <p>Speculating on the grade, Charles acknowledged it would likely feel significantly easier with shoes and knee pads but suggested 9A would likely be appropriate for an ascent in this 'normal' style. <a href="/climber/1461/pietro-vidi">Pietro Vidi</a> then made the second ascent using all the tricks in the book (2 shoes, 4 kneepads (!) and 2 crack gloves) and suggested 8B+ was more appropriate. Given Pietro's ascent is closer to the 'normal' style it seems 8B+ is probably closer to the grade others will experience on this problem.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8">https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8</a></p> After <p><em>L’Ombre du Voyageur</em> is a roof crack boulder problem in a cave in <a href="/crag/8647/le-saleve" rel="noopener noreferrer">Le Salève</a>, near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section.</p> <p>The line was first spotted by <a href="/climber/542/elie-chevieux" rel="noopener noreferrer">Elie Chevieux</a>, but it had to wait until <a href="/climber/600/charles-albert" rel="noopener noreferrer">Charles Albert</a> started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023.</p> <p>Speculating on the grade, Charles acknowledged it would likely feel significantly easier with shoes and knee pads but suggested 9A would likely be appropriate for an ascent in this 'normal' style. <a href="/climber/1461/pietro-vidi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pietro Vidi</a> then made the second ascent using all the tricks in the book (2 shoes, 4 kneepads (!) and 2 crack gloves) and suggested 8B+ was more appropriate. Given Pietro's ascent is closer to the 'normal' style it seems 8B+ is probably closer to the grade others will experience on this problem.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8</a></p>
1385	2nd July 2026	17:19:21 UTC	Mono	climb	L’Ombre du Voyageur	featurable
Before `false` After `true`
1386	2nd July 2026	17:17:28 UTC	Mono	climb	Master's Wall	grade_approx
Before `true` After `false`
1387	2nd July 2026	17:17:28 UTC	Mono	climb	Master's Wall	featurable
Before `false` After `true`
1388	2nd July 2026	16:59:18 UTC	Mono	climb	Master's Wall	notes
Before [Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience: >In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3] [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through. [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. In extremis on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict: > I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1) There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent. [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook: > The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2) However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line: >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1) The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) (E9). ### References [1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock) [2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon [3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt) After [Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience: >In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3] [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through. [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. In extremis on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict: > I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1) There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent. [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook: > The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2) However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line: >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1) The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) (E9). ### References [1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock) [2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon [3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -5,7 +5,7 @@ Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience: >In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3] -[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through. +[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through. [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. In extremis on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:
1389	2nd July 2026	16:59:18 UTC	Mono	climb	Master's Wall	notes_pretty
Before <p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s solution to the Last Great Problem on <a href="/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu" rel="noopener noreferrer">Clogwyn Du'r Arddu</a>'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.</p> <p>The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. </p> <p>Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle" rel="noopener noreferrer">Spreadeagle</a>. Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:</p> <blockquote> <p>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]</p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.</p> <p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. <em>In extremis</em> on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p> <blockquote> <p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p> <p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p> <blockquote> <p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p> </blockquote> <p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p> <blockquote> <p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> (E9). </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p> <p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p> <p>[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt</a></p> After <p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s solution to the Last Great Problem on <a href="/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu" rel="noopener noreferrer">Clogwyn Du'r Arddu</a>'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.</p> <p>The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. </p> <p>Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle" rel="noopener noreferrer">Spreadeagle</a>. Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:</p> <blockquote> <p>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]</p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.</p> <p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. <em>In extremis</em> on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p> <blockquote> <p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p> <p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p> <blockquote> <p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p> </blockquote> <p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p> <blockquote> <p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> (E9). </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p> <p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p> <p>[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt</a></p>
1390	2nd July 2026	16:58:23 UTC	Mono	climb	Master's Wall	notes_pretty
Before <p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s solution to the Last Great Problem on <a href="/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu" rel="noopener noreferrer">Clogwyn Du'r Arddu</a>'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.</p> <p>The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. </p> <p>Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle" rel="noopener noreferrer">Spreadeagle</a>. Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:</p> <blockquote> <p>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]</p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.</p> <p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. <em>In extremis</em> on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p> <blockquote> <p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p> <p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p> <blockquote> <p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p> </blockquote> <p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p> <blockquote> <p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a>. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p> <p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p> <p>[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt</a></p> After <p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s solution to the Last Great Problem on <a href="/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu" rel="noopener noreferrer">Clogwyn Du'r Arddu</a>'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.</p> <p>The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. </p> <p>Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle" rel="noopener noreferrer">Spreadeagle</a>. Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:</p> <blockquote> <p>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]</p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.</p> <p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. <em>In extremis</em> on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p> <blockquote> <p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p> <p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p> <blockquote> <p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p> </blockquote> <p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p> <blockquote> <p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> (E9). </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p> <p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p> <p>[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt</a></p>
1391	2nd July 2026	16:58:23 UTC	Mono	climb	Master's Wall	notes
Before [Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience: >In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3] [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through. [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. In extremis on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict: > I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1) There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent. [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook: > The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2) However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line: >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1) The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). ### References [1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock) [2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon [3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt) After [Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience: >In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3] [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through. [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. In extremis on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict: > I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1) There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent. [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook: > The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2) However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line: >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1) The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) (E9). ### References [1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock) [2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon [3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -21,7 +21,7 @@ >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1) -The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). +The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) (E9). ### References
1392	2nd July 2026	16:57:55 UTC	Mono	climb	Master's Wall	grade_approx
Before `false` After `true`
1393	2nd July 2026	16:57:27 UTC	Mono	climb	Master's Wall	notes_pretty
Before <p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s solution to the Last Great Problem on <a href="/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu" rel="noopener noreferrer">Clogwyn Du'r Arddu</a>'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning outright epics in British climbing.</p> <p>The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. </p> <p>Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle" rel="noopener noreferrer">Spreadeagle</a>. Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:</p> <blockquote> <p>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]</p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.</p> <p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. <em>In extremis</em> on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p> <blockquote> <p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p> <p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p> <blockquote> <p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p> </blockquote> <p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p> <blockquote> <p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a>. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p> <p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p> <p>[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt</a></p> After <p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s solution to the Last Great Problem on <a href="/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu" rel="noopener noreferrer">Clogwyn Du'r Arddu</a>'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.</p> <p>The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. </p> <p>Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle" rel="noopener noreferrer">Spreadeagle</a>. Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:</p> <blockquote> <p>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]</p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.</p> <p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. <em>In extremis</em> on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p> <blockquote> <p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p> <p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p> <blockquote> <p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p> </blockquote> <p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p> <blockquote> <p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a>. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p> <p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p> <p>[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt</a></p>
1394	2nd July 2026	16:57:27 UTC	Mono	climb	Master's Wall	notes
Before [Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning outright epics in British climbing. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience: >In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3] [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through. [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. In extremis on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict: > I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1) There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent. [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook: > The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2) However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line: >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1) The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). ### References [1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock) [2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon [3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt) After [Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience: >In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3] [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through. [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. In extremis on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict: > I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1) There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent. [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook: > The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2) However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line: >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1) The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). ### References [1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock) [2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon [3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,4 +1,4 @@ -[Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning outright epics in British climbing. +[Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation).
1395	2nd July 2026	16:57:09 UTC	Mono	climb	Master's Wall	notes
Before Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996. [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict: > I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1) There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent. [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook: > The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2) However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line: >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1) ### References [1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock) [2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon After [Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning outright epics in British climbing. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience: >In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3] [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through. [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. In extremis on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict: > I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1) There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent. [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook: > The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2) However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line: >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1) The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). ### References [1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock) [2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon [3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,8 +1,13 @@ -Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). +[Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning outright epics in British climbing. -[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996. +The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). -[James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict: +Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience: +>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3] + +[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through. + +[James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. In extremis on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict: > I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1) @@ -14,7 +19,9 @@ However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line: - >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1) + >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1) + +The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). ### References @@ -22,4 +29,4 @@ [2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon - +[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt)
1396	2nd July 2026	16:57:09 UTC	Mono	climb	Master's Wall	notes_pretty
Before <p>Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle">Spreadeagle</a>. The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face">Indian Face</a>. </p> <p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996.</p> <p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p> <blockquote> <p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p> <p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p> <blockquote> <p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p> </blockquote> <p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p> <blockquote> <p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p> <p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p> After <p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s solution to the Last Great Problem on <a href="/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu" rel="noopener noreferrer">Clogwyn Du'r Arddu</a>'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning outright epics in British climbing.</p> <p>The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. </p> <p>Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle" rel="noopener noreferrer">Spreadeagle</a>. Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:</p> <blockquote> <p>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]</p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.</p> <p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. <em>In extremis</em> on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p> <blockquote> <p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p> <p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p> <blockquote> <p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p> </blockquote> <p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p> <blockquote> <p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a>. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p> <p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p> <p>[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt</a></p>
1397	2nd July 2026	16:37:31 UTC	Mono	climber	Fred Rouhling	notes
Before Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late 90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off the beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that many of his routes were unashamedly chipped (for example [De L'Autre Côté du Ciel](/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel)). His route [Akira](/climb/475/akira) was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist. A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by [Sébastien Bouin](/climber/496/sébastien-bouin) and [Lucien Martinez](/climber/498/lucien-martinez). ### References [1] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 1 [https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY](https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY) [2] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 2 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI) [3] The Other Side of Fred Rouhling by Pete Ward, 15th June 2012 [https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/](https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/) [4] Interview with camptocamp.org, October 2008 [https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-](https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-) [5] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?) [6] Interview for On The Edge Issue 102, page 40 After Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example [De L'Autre Côté du Ciel](/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel)). He is notable for a particularly dynamic styling of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as [Hugh](/climb/46/hugh) (9a) were manufactured to create this style. His route [Akira](/climb/475/akira) was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist. A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by [Sébastien Bouin](/climber/496/sébastien-bouin) and [Lucien Martinez](/climber/498/lucien-martinez). ### References [1] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 1 [https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY](https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY) [2] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 2 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI) [3] The Other Side of Fred Rouhling by Pete Ward, 15th June 2012 [https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/](https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/) [4] Interview with camptocamp.org, October 2008 [https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-](https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-) [5] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?) [6] Interview for On The Edge Issue 102, page 40 Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,8 +1,9 @@ -Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late 90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off the beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that many of his routes were unashamedly chipped (for example [De L'Autre Côté du Ciel](/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel)). +Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example [De L'Autre Côté du Ciel](/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel)). He is notable for a particularly dynamic styling of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as [Hugh](/climb/46/hugh) (9a) were manufactured to create this style. His route [Akira](/climb/475/akira) was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist. A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by [Sébastien Bouin](/climber/496/sébastien-bouin) and [Lucien Martinez](/climber/498/lucien-martinez). + ### References
1398	2nd July 2026	16:37:31 UTC	Mono	climber	Fred Rouhling	notes_pretty
Before <p>Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late 90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off the beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that many of his routes were unashamedly chipped (for example <a href="/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel">De L'Autre Côté du Ciel</a>).</p> <p>His route <a href="/climb/475/akira">Akira</a> was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist.</p> <p>A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by <a href="/climber/496/sébastien-bouin">Sébastien Bouin</a> and <a href="/climber/498/lucien-martinez">Lucien Martinez</a>.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 1 <a href="https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY">https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY</a> </p> <p>[2] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 2 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI</a></p> <p>[3] The Other Side of Fred Rouhling by Pete Ward, 15th June 2012 <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/">https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/</a></p> <p>[4] Interview with camptocamp.org, October 2008 <a href="https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-">https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-</a></p> <p>[5] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?">https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?</a></p> <p>[6] Interview for <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 102, page 40</p> After <p>Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example <a href="/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel" rel="noopener noreferrer">De L'Autre Côté du Ciel</a>). He is notable for a particularly dynamic styling of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as <a href="/climb/46/hugh" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hugh</a> (9a) were manufactured to create this style.</p> <p>His route <a href="/climb/475/akira" rel="noopener noreferrer">Akira</a> was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist.</p> <p>A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by <a href="/climber/496/sébastien-bouin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Sébastien Bouin</a> and <a href="/climber/498/lucien-martinez" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lucien Martinez</a>.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 1 <a href="https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY</a> </p> <p>[2] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 2 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI</a></p> <p>[3] The Other Side of Fred Rouhling by Pete Ward, 15th June 2012 <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/</a></p> <p>[4] Interview with camptocamp.org, October 2008 <a href="https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-</a></p> <p>[5] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?</a></p> <p>[6] Interview for <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 102, page 40</p>
1399	2nd July 2026	15:44:56 UTC	Mono	climb	Evolution	notes_pretty
Before <p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s hardest and final route at <a href="/crag/146/raven-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Raven Tor</a>, blasting up a line of punishing crimps.</p> <p><a href="/climber/130/ben-moon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ben Moon</a>, who repeated the route aged 52: </p> <blockquote> <p>A classic Ravens Tor [sic] route, only 10m long but basically sustained bouldering all the way. Probably hard Font 8a into hard route 8b with no rests and a heartbreak dyno to finish. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>Fellow Tor veteran <a href="/climber/129/steve-mcclure" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve McClure</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>Another great name from <a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry</a>; he grabbed most of the best names, in part because he was first in the queue. This one was named after the progression of climbing at the crag, as it evolved from <a href="/climb/532/sardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Sardine</a> (7b+) and <a href="/climb/543/body-machine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Body Machine</a> (7c+) into the cutting edge of world standards. […] [2]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ben-moon-repeats-evolution-jerry-moffatt-8c-plus-raven-tor.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ben-moon-repeats-evolution-jerry-moffatt-8c-plus-raven-tor.html</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_the_evolution_of_man-16947" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_the_evolution_of_man-16947</a></p> After <p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s hardest and final route at <a href="/crag/146/raven-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Raven Tor</a>, blasting up a line of punishing crimps.</p> <p><a href="/climber/130/ben-moon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ben Moon</a>, who repeated the route aged 52: </p> <blockquote> <p>A classic Ravens Tor [sic] route, only 10m long but basically sustained bouldering all the way. Probably hard Font 8a into hard route 8b with no rests and a heartbreak dyno to finish. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>Fellow steel-fingered Tor veteran <a href="/climber/129/steve-mcclure" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve McClure</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>Another great name from <a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry</a>; he grabbed most of the best names, in part because he was first in the queue. This one was named after the progression of climbing at the crag, as it evolved from <a href="/climb/532/sardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Sardine</a> (7b+) and <a href="/climb/543/body-machine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Body Machine</a> (7c+) into the cutting edge of world standards. […] [2]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ben-moon-repeats-evolution-jerry-moffatt-8c-plus-raven-tor.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ben-moon-repeats-evolution-jerry-moffatt-8c-plus-raven-tor.html</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_the_evolution_of_man-16947" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_the_evolution_of_man-16947</a></p>
1400	2nd July 2026	15:44:56 UTC	Mono	climb	Evolution	notes
Before [Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s hardest and final route at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), blasting up a line of punishing crimps. [Ben Moon](/climber/130/ben-moon), who repeated the route aged 52: >A classic Ravens Tor [sic] route, only 10m long but basically sustained bouldering all the way. Probably hard Font 8a into hard route 8b with no rests and a heartbreak dyno to finish. [1] Fellow Tor veteran [Steve McClure](/climber/129/steve-mcclure): >Another great name from [Jerry](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt); he grabbed most of the best names, in part because he was first in the queue. This one was named after the progression of climbing at the crag, as it evolved from [Sardine](/climb/532/sardine) (7b+) and [Body Machine](/climb/543/body-machine) (7c+) into the cutting edge of world standards. […] [2] ### References [1] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ben-moon-repeats-evolution-jerry-moffatt-8c-plus-raven-tor.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ben-moon-repeats-evolution-jerry-moffatt-8c-plus-raven-tor.html) [2] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_the_evolution_of_man-16947](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_the_evolution_of_man-16947) After [Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s hardest and final route at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), blasting up a line of punishing crimps. [Ben Moon](/climber/130/ben-moon), who repeated the route aged 52: >A classic Ravens Tor [sic] route, only 10m long but basically sustained bouldering all the way. Probably hard Font 8a into hard route 8b with no rests and a heartbreak dyno to finish. [1] Fellow steel-fingered Tor veteran [Steve McClure](/climber/129/steve-mcclure): >Another great name from [Jerry](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt); he grabbed most of the best names, in part because he was first in the queue. This one was named after the progression of climbing at the crag, as it evolved from [Sardine](/climb/532/sardine) (7b+) and [Body Machine](/climb/543/body-machine) (7c+) into the cutting edge of world standards. […] [2] ### References [1] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ben-moon-repeats-evolution-jerry-moffatt-8c-plus-raven-tor.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ben-moon-repeats-evolution-jerry-moffatt-8c-plus-raven-tor.html) [2] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_the_evolution_of_man-16947](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_the_evolution_of_man-16947) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -3,7 +3,7 @@ [Ben Moon](/climber/130/ben-moon), who repeated the route aged 52: >A classic Ravens Tor [sic] route, only 10m long but basically sustained bouldering all the way. Probably hard Font 8a into hard route 8b with no rests and a heartbreak dyno to finish. [1] -Fellow Tor veteran [Steve McClure](/climber/129/steve-mcclure): +Fellow steel-fingered Tor veteran [Steve McClure](/climber/129/steve-mcclure): >Another great name from [Jerry](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt); he grabbed most of the best names, in part because he was first in the queue. This one was named after the progression of climbing at the crag, as it evolved from [Sardine](/climb/532/sardine) (7b+) and [Body Machine](/climb/543/body-machine) (7c+) into the cutting edge of world standards. […] [2]

Before

Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example [De L'Autre Côté du Ciel](/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel)). He is notable for a particularly dynamic styling of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as [Hugh](/climb/46/hugh) (9a) were manufactured to create this style.

His route [Akira](/climb/475/akira) was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist.

A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by [Sébastien Bouin](/climber/496/sébastien-bouin) and [Lucien Martinez](/climber/498/lucien-martinez).


### References

[1] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 1 [https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY](https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY) 

[2] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 2 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI)

[3] The Other Side of Fred Rouhling by Pete Ward, 15th June 2012 [https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/](https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/)

[4] Interview with camptocamp.org, October 2008 [https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-](https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-)

[5] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?)

[6] Interview for *On The Edge* Issue 102, page 40

After

Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example [De L'Autre Côté du Ciel](/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel)). He is notable for a particularly dynamic style of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as [Hugh](/climb/46/hugh) (9a) were manufactured to create this style.

His route [Akira](/climb/475/akira) was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist.

A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by [Sébastien Bouin](/climber/496/sébastien-bouin) and [Lucien Martinez](/climber/498/lucien-martinez).


### References

[1] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 1 [https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY](https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY) 

[2] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 2 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI)

[3] The Other Side of Fred Rouhling by Pete Ward, 15th June 2012 [https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/](https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/)

[4] Interview with camptocamp.org, October 2008 [https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-](https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-)

[5] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?)

[6] Interview for *On The Edge* Issue 102, page 40

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@

-Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example [De L'Autre Côté du Ciel](/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel)). He is notable for a particularly dynamic styling of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as [Hugh](/climb/46/hugh) (9a) were manufactured to create this style.

+Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example [De L'Autre Côté du Ciel](/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel)). He is notable for a particularly dynamic style of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as [Hugh](/climb/46/hugh) (9a) were manufactured to create this style.

 

 His route [Akira](/climb/475/akira) was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist.

Before

<p><em>L’Ombre du Voyageur</em> is a roof crack boulder problem in a cave in <a href="/crag/8647/le-saleve" rel="noopener noreferrer">Le Salève</a>, near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section.</p>
<p>The line was first spotted by <a href="/climber/542/elie-chevieux" rel="noopener noreferrer">Elie Chevieux</a>, but it had to wait until <a href="/climber/600/charles-albert" rel="noopener noreferrer">Charles Albert</a> started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023.</p>
<p>Speculating on the grade, Charles acknowledged it would likely feel significantly easier with shoes and knee pads but suggested 9A would likely be appropriate for an ascent in this 'normal' style. <a href="/climber/1461/pietro-vidi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pietro Vidi</a> then made the second ascent using all the tricks in the book (2 shoes, 4 kneepads (!) and 2 crack gloves) and suggested 8B+ was more appropriate. Given Pietro's ascent is closer to the 'normal' style it seems 8B+ is probably closer to the grade others will experience on this problem.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8</a></p>

After

<p><em>L’Ombre du Voyageur</em> is a 15m roof crack boulder problem in a cave in <a href="/crag/8647/le-saleve" rel="noopener noreferrer">Le Salève</a>, near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section.</p>
<p>The line was first spotted by <a href="/climber/542/elie-chevieux" rel="noopener noreferrer">Elie Chevieux</a>, but it had to wait until <a href="/climber/600/charles-albert" rel="noopener noreferrer">Charles Albert</a> started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023.</p>
<p>Speculating on the grade, Charles acknowledged it would likely feel significantly easier with shoes and knee pads but suggested 9A would likely be appropriate for an ascent in this 'normal' style. <a href="/climber/1461/pietro-vidi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pietro Vidi</a> then made the second ascent using all the tricks in the book (2 shoes, 4 kneepads (!) and 2 crack gloves) and suggested 8B+ was more appropriate. Given Pietro's ascent is closer to the 'normal' style it seems 8B+ is probably closer to the grade others will experience on this problem.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8</a></p>

Before

*L’Ombre du Voyageur* is a roof crack boulder problem in a cave in [Le Salève](/crag/8647/le-saleve), near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section.

The line was first spotted by [Elie Chevieux](/climber/542/elie-chevieux), but it had to wait until [Charles Albert](/climber/600/charles-albert) started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023.

Speculating on the grade, Charles acknowledged it would likely feel significantly easier with shoes and knee pads but suggested 9A would likely be appropriate for an ascent in this 'normal' style. [Pietro Vidi](/climber/1461/pietro-vidi) then made the second ascent using all the tricks in the book (2 shoes, 4 kneepads (!) and 2 crack gloves) and suggested 8B+ was more appropriate. Given Pietro's ascent is closer to the 'normal' style it seems 8B+ is probably closer to the grade others will experience on this problem.

### References

[1] [https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8](https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8)

After

*L’Ombre du Voyageur* is a 15m roof crack boulder problem in a cave in [Le Salève](/crag/8647/le-saleve), near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section.

The line was first spotted by [Elie Chevieux](/climber/542/elie-chevieux), but it had to wait until [Charles Albert](/climber/600/charles-albert) started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023.

Speculating on the grade, Charles acknowledged it would likely feel significantly easier with shoes and knee pads but suggested 9A would likely be appropriate for an ascent in this 'normal' style. [Pietro Vidi](/climber/1461/pietro-vidi) then made the second ascent using all the tricks in the book (2 shoes, 4 kneepads (!) and 2 crack gloves) and suggested 8B+ was more appropriate. Given Pietro's ascent is closer to the 'normal' style it seems 8B+ is probably closer to the grade others will experience on this problem.

### References

[1] [https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8](https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@

-*L’Ombre du Voyageur* is a roof crack boulder problem in a cave in [Le Salève](/crag/8647/le-saleve), near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section.

+*L’Ombre du Voyageur* is a 15m roof crack boulder problem in a cave in [Le Salève](/crag/8647/le-saleve), near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section.

 

 The line was first spotted by [Elie Chevieux](/climber/542/elie-chevieux), but it had to wait until [Charles Albert](/climber/600/charles-albert) started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023.

Before

<p><em>L’Ombre du Voyageur</em> is a roof crack boulder problem in a cave in <a href="/crag/8647/le-saleve">Le Salève</a>, near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section.</p>
<p>The line was first spotted by <a href="/climber/542/elie-chevieux">Elie Chevieux</a>, but it had to wait until <a href="/climber/600/charles-albert">Charles Albert</a> started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023.</p>
<p>Speculating on the grade, Charles acknowledged it would likely feel significantly easier with shoes and knee pads but suggested 9A would likely be appropriate for an ascent in this 'normal' style. <a href="/climber/1461/pietro-vidi">Pietro Vidi</a> then made the second ascent using all the tricks in the book (2 shoes, 4 kneepads (!) and 2 crack gloves) and suggested 8B+ was more appropriate. Given Pietro's ascent is closer to the 'normal' style it seems 8B+ is probably closer to the grade others will experience on this problem.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8">https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8</a></p>

After

<p><em>L’Ombre du Voyageur</em> is a roof crack boulder problem in a cave in <a href="/crag/8647/le-saleve" rel="noopener noreferrer">Le Salève</a>, near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section.</p>
<p>The line was first spotted by <a href="/climber/542/elie-chevieux" rel="noopener noreferrer">Elie Chevieux</a>, but it had to wait until <a href="/climber/600/charles-albert" rel="noopener noreferrer">Charles Albert</a> started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023.</p>
<p>Speculating on the grade, Charles acknowledged it would likely feel significantly easier with shoes and knee pads but suggested 9A would likely be appropriate for an ascent in this 'normal' style. <a href="/climber/1461/pietro-vidi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pietro Vidi</a> then made the second ascent using all the tricks in the book (2 shoes, 4 kneepads (!) and 2 crack gloves) and suggested 8B+ was more appropriate. Given Pietro's ascent is closer to the 'normal' style it seems 8B+ is probably closer to the grade others will experience on this problem.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8</a></p>

Before

false

After

true

Before

true

After

false

Before

false

After

true

Before

[Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.

The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). 

Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:
>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]

[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.

[James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. *In extremis* on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:

> I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)

There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.

[Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook:

> The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)

However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line:

 >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)

The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) (E9). 

### References

[1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock)

[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon

[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt)

After

[Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.

The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). 

Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:
>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]

[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.

[James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. *In extremis* on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:

> I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)

There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.

[Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook:

> The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)

However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line:

 >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)

The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) (E9). 

### References

[1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock)

[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon

[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -5,7 +5,7 @@

 Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:

 >In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]

 

-[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.

+[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.

 

 [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. *In extremis* on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:

Before

<p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s solution to the Last Great Problem on <a href="/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu" rel="noopener noreferrer">Clogwyn Du'r Arddu</a>'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.</p>
<p>The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. </p>
<p>Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle" rel="noopener noreferrer">Spreadeagle</a>. Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. <em>In extremis</em> on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> (E9). </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p>
<p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>
<p>[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt</a></p>

After

<p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s solution to the Last Great Problem on <a href="/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu" rel="noopener noreferrer">Clogwyn Du'r Arddu</a>'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.</p>
<p>The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. </p>
<p>Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle" rel="noopener noreferrer">Spreadeagle</a>. Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. <em>In extremis</em> on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> (E9). </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p>
<p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>
<p>[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt</a></p>

Before

<p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s solution to the Last Great Problem on <a href="/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu" rel="noopener noreferrer">Clogwyn Du'r Arddu</a>'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.</p>
<p>The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. </p>
<p>Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle" rel="noopener noreferrer">Spreadeagle</a>. Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. <em>In extremis</em> on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a>. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p>
<p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>
<p>[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt</a></p>

After

<p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s solution to the Last Great Problem on <a href="/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu" rel="noopener noreferrer">Clogwyn Du'r Arddu</a>'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.</p>
<p>The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. </p>
<p>Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle" rel="noopener noreferrer">Spreadeagle</a>. Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. <em>In extremis</em> on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> (E9). </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p>
<p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>
<p>[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt</a></p>

Before

[Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.

The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). 

Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:
>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]

[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.

[James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. *In extremis* on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:

> I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)

There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.

[Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook:

> The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)

However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line:

 >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)

The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). 

### References

[1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock)

[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon

[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt)

After

[Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.

The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). 

Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:
>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]

[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.

[James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. *In extremis* on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:

> I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)

There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.

[Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook:

> The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)

However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line:

 >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)

The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) (E9). 

### References

[1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock)

[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon

[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -21,7 +21,7 @@

 

  >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)

 

-The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). 

+The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) (E9). 

 

 ### References

Before

false

After

true

Before

<p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s solution to the Last Great Problem on <a href="/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu" rel="noopener noreferrer">Clogwyn Du'r Arddu</a>'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning outright epics in British climbing.</p>
<p>The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. </p>
<p>Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle" rel="noopener noreferrer">Spreadeagle</a>. Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. <em>In extremis</em> on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a>. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p>
<p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>
<p>[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt</a></p>

After

<p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s solution to the Last Great Problem on <a href="/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu" rel="noopener noreferrer">Clogwyn Du'r Arddu</a>'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.</p>
<p>The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. </p>
<p>Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle" rel="noopener noreferrer">Spreadeagle</a>. Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. <em>In extremis</em> on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a>. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p>
<p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>
<p>[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt</a></p>

Before

[Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning outright epics in British climbing.

The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). 

Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:
>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]

[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.

[James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. *In extremis* on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:

> I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)

There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.

[Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook:

> The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)

However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line:

 >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)

The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). 

### References

[1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock)

[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon

[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt)

After

[Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.

The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). 

Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:
>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]

[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.

[James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. *In extremis* on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:

> I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)

There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.

[Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook:

> The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)

However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line:

 >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)

The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). 

### References

[1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock)

[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon

[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@

-[Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning outright epics in British climbing.

+[Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.

 

 The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation).

Before

Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). 

[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996.

[James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:

> I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)

There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.

[Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook:

> The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)

However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line:

 >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)

### References

[1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock)

[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon

After

[Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning outright epics in British climbing.

The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). 

Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:
>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]

[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.

[James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. *In extremis* on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:

> I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)

There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.

[Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook:

> The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)

However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line:

 >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)

The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). 

### References

[1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock)

[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon

[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,8 +1,13 @@

-Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). 

+[Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning outright epics in British climbing.

 

-[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996.

+The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). 

 

-[James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:

+Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:

+>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]

+

+[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.

+

+[James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. *In extremis* on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:

 

 > I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)

 

@@ -14,7 +19,9 @@

 

 However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line:

 

- >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)

+ >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)

+

+The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). 

 

 ### References

 

@@ -22,4 +29,4 @@

 

 [2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon

 

-
+[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt)

Before

<p>Moffatt's solution to the Last Great Problem on Great Wall. The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle">Spreadeagle</a>. The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face">Indian Face</a>. </p>
<p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescue attempts in British climbing. He returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the Indian Face 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p>
<p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>

After

<p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s solution to the Last Great Problem on <a href="/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu" rel="noopener noreferrer">Clogwyn Du'r Arddu</a>'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning outright epics in British climbing.</p>
<p>The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. </p>
<p>Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle" rel="noopener noreferrer">Spreadeagle</a>. Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots that two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. <em>In extremis</em> on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a>. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p>
<p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>
<p>[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt</a></p>

Before

Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late 90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off the beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that many of his routes were unashamedly chipped (for example [De L'Autre Côté du Ciel](/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel)).

His route [Akira](/climb/475/akira) was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist.

A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by [Sébastien Bouin](/climber/496/sébastien-bouin) and [Lucien Martinez](/climber/498/lucien-martinez).

### References

[1] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 1 [https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY](https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY) 

[2] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 2 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI)

[3] The Other Side of Fred Rouhling by Pete Ward, 15th June 2012 [https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/](https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/)

[4] Interview with camptocamp.org, October 2008 [https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-](https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-)

[5] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?)

[6] Interview for *On The Edge* Issue 102, page 40

After

Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example [De L'Autre Côté du Ciel](/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel)). He is notable for a particularly dynamic styling of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as [Hugh](/climb/46/hugh) (9a) were manufactured to create this style.

His route [Akira](/climb/475/akira) was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist.

A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by [Sébastien Bouin](/climber/496/sébastien-bouin) and [Lucien Martinez](/climber/498/lucien-martinez).


### References

[1] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 1 [https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY](https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY) 

[2] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 2 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI)

[3] The Other Side of Fred Rouhling by Pete Ward, 15th June 2012 [https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/](https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/)

[4] Interview with camptocamp.org, October 2008 [https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-](https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-)

[5] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?)

[6] Interview for *On The Edge* Issue 102, page 40

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,8 +1,9 @@

-Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late 90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off the beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that many of his routes were unashamedly chipped (for example [De L'Autre Côté du Ciel](/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel)).

+Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example [De L'Autre Côté du Ciel](/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel)). He is notable for a particularly dynamic styling of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as [Hugh](/climb/46/hugh) (9a) were manufactured to create this style.

 

 His route [Akira](/climb/475/akira) was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist.

 

 A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by [Sébastien Bouin](/climber/496/sébastien-bouin) and [Lucien Martinez](/climber/498/lucien-martinez).

+

 

 ### References

Before

<p>Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late 90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off the beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that many of his routes were unashamedly chipped (for example <a href="/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel">De L'Autre Côté du Ciel</a>).</p>
<p>His route <a href="/climb/475/akira">Akira</a> was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist.</p>
<p>A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by <a href="/climber/496/sébastien-bouin">Sébastien Bouin</a> and <a href="/climber/498/lucien-martinez">Lucien Martinez</a>.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 1 <a href="https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY">https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY</a> </p>
<p>[2] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 2 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI</a></p>
<p>[3] The Other Side of Fred Rouhling by Pete Ward, 15th June 2012 <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/">https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/</a></p>
<p>[4] Interview with camptocamp.org, October 2008 <a href="https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-">https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-</a></p>
<p>[5] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?">https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?</a></p>
<p>[6] Interview for <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 102, page 40</p>

After

<p>Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example <a href="/climb/853/de-l'autre-côté-du-ciel" rel="noopener noreferrer">De L'Autre Côté du Ciel</a>). He is notable for a particularly dynamic styling of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as <a href="/climb/46/hugh" rel="noopener noreferrer">Hugh</a> (9a) were manufactured to create this style.</p>
<p>His route <a href="/climb/475/akira" rel="noopener noreferrer">Akira</a> was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist.</p>
<p>A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by <a href="/climber/496/sébastien-bouin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Sébastien Bouin</a> and <a href="/climber/498/lucien-martinez" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lucien Martinez</a>.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 1 <a href="https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY</a> </p>
<p>[2] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 2 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI</a></p>
<p>[3] The Other Side of Fred Rouhling by Pete Ward, 15th June 2012 <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/</a></p>
<p>[4] Interview with camptocamp.org, October 2008 <a href="https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-</a></p>
<p>[5] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?</a></p>
<p>[6] Interview for <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 102, page 40</p>

Before

<p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s hardest and final route at <a href="/crag/146/raven-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Raven Tor</a>, blasting up a line of punishing crimps.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/130/ben-moon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ben Moon</a>, who repeated the route aged 52: </p>
<blockquote>
<p>A classic Ravens Tor [sic] route, only 10m long but basically sustained bouldering all the way. Probably hard Font 8a into hard route 8b with no rests and a heartbreak dyno to finish. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Fellow Tor veteran <a href="/climber/129/steve-mcclure" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve McClure</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Another great name from <a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry</a>; he grabbed most of the best names, in part because he was first in the queue. This one was named after the progression of climbing at the crag, as it evolved from <a href="/climb/532/sardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Sardine</a> (7b+) and <a href="/climb/543/body-machine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Body Machine</a> (7c+) into the cutting edge of world standards. […] [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ben-moon-repeats-evolution-jerry-moffatt-8c-plus-raven-tor.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ben-moon-repeats-evolution-jerry-moffatt-8c-plus-raven-tor.html</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_the_evolution_of_man-16947" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_the_evolution_of_man-16947</a></p>

After

<p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s hardest and final route at <a href="/crag/146/raven-tor" rel="noopener noreferrer">Raven Tor</a>, blasting up a line of punishing crimps.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/130/ben-moon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ben Moon</a>, who repeated the route aged 52: </p>
<blockquote>
<p>A classic Ravens Tor [sic] route, only 10m long but basically sustained bouldering all the way. Probably hard Font 8a into hard route 8b with no rests and a heartbreak dyno to finish. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Fellow steel-fingered Tor veteran <a href="/climber/129/steve-mcclure" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve McClure</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Another great name from <a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry</a>; he grabbed most of the best names, in part because he was first in the queue. This one was named after the progression of climbing at the crag, as it evolved from <a href="/climb/532/sardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Sardine</a> (7b+) and <a href="/climb/543/body-machine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Body Machine</a> (7c+) into the cutting edge of world standards. […] [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ben-moon-repeats-evolution-jerry-moffatt-8c-plus-raven-tor.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ben-moon-repeats-evolution-jerry-moffatt-8c-plus-raven-tor.html</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_the_evolution_of_man-16947" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_the_evolution_of_man-16947</a></p>

Before

[Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s hardest and final route at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), blasting up a line of punishing crimps.

[Ben Moon](/climber/130/ben-moon), who repeated the route aged 52: 
>A classic Ravens Tor [sic] route, only 10m long but basically sustained bouldering all the way. Probably hard Font 8a into hard route 8b with no rests and a heartbreak dyno to finish. [1]

Fellow Tor veteran [Steve McClure](/climber/129/steve-mcclure):
>Another great name from [Jerry](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt); he grabbed most of the best names, in part because he was first in the queue. This one was named after the progression of climbing at the crag, as it evolved from [Sardine](/climb/532/sardine) (7b+) and [Body Machine](/climb/543/body-machine) (7c+) into the cutting edge of world standards. […] [2]


### References

[1] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ben-moon-repeats-evolution-jerry-moffatt-8c-plus-raven-tor.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ben-moon-repeats-evolution-jerry-moffatt-8c-plus-raven-tor.html)

[2] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_the_evolution_of_man-16947](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_the_evolution_of_man-16947)

After

[Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s hardest and final route at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor), blasting up a line of punishing crimps.

[Ben Moon](/climber/130/ben-moon), who repeated the route aged 52: 
>A classic Ravens Tor [sic] route, only 10m long but basically sustained bouldering all the way. Probably hard Font 8a into hard route 8b with no rests and a heartbreak dyno to finish. [1]

Fellow steel-fingered Tor veteran [Steve McClure](/climber/129/steve-mcclure):
>Another great name from [Jerry](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt); he grabbed most of the best names, in part because he was first in the queue. This one was named after the progression of climbing at the crag, as it evolved from [Sardine](/climb/532/sardine) (7b+) and [Body Machine](/climb/543/body-machine) (7c+) into the cutting edge of world standards. […] [2]


### References

[1] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ben-moon-repeats-evolution-jerry-moffatt-8c-plus-raven-tor.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ben-moon-repeats-evolution-jerry-moffatt-8c-plus-raven-tor.html)

[2] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_the_evolution_of_man-16947](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_the_evolution_of_man-16947)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -3,7 +3,7 @@

 [Ben Moon](/climber/130/ben-moon), who repeated the route aged 52: 

 >A classic Ravens Tor [sic] route, only 10m long but basically sustained bouldering all the way. Probably hard Font 8a into hard route 8b with no rests and a heartbreak dyno to finish. [1]

 

-Fellow Tor veteran [Steve McClure](/climber/129/steve-mcclure):

+Fellow steel-fingered Tor veteran [Steve McClure](/climber/129/steve-mcclure):

 >Another great name from [Jerry](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt); he grabbed most of the best names, in part because he was first in the queue. This one was named after the progression of climbing at the crag, as it evolved from [Sardine](/climb/532/sardine) (7b+) and [Body Machine](/climb/543/body-machine) (7c+) into the cutting edge of world standards. […] [2]

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