What's the story behind the 'theft' of the first ascent comment. I've heard the controversy mentioned by others in person but not sure what it was. Can't find anything online about it.
I'll see if I've got any contact details for Andy Moles (who wrote the UKC piece).
Heard back from Andy, he reckoned there might be more info in the supertopo guide, or maybe an alpinist mag? He couldn't recall the exact details, but reckoned it was along the lines of non-locals coming in to nab the line, something about taking a bit of a different line and maybe something about fixed gear?
Andy has been a hero and dug out the relevant passages from the guide:

